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On fait souvent remonter la Genèse du vin au septième millénaire avant notre ère, dans le Caucase là où le vin était élevé en kvrevris (ou qvrevris), de grandes jarres de 3500 litres enterrées dans le sol. Traditionnellement, le vin a toujours été comme ce que l'on considère aujourd'hui bio mais la mention "vin bio" apparait elle à la fin du XXe siècle, en réaction à l'hyper-industrialisation du vin. En effet, c'est dans un contexte de globalisation du vin au sortir de la Seconde Guerre Mondiale que les productions viticoles commencent à inonder le marché mondial à coup de vins remplis d'intrants et produits chimiques de synthèse afin d'obtenir des rendements plus élevés et une production plus standardisée, c'est ce qu'on appelle le vin conventionnel. Le vin bio est donc une réponse logique au vin conventionnel, il se veut plus respectueux de l'environnement et répond à un cahier des charges stricte qui encadre la production du vin.
Le vin biologique est donc un vin (vin rouge, vin blanc, vin rosé, vin orange, vin pétillant) issu de l'agriculture biologique. Le vin bio a d'abord répondu au cahier des charges européen de 1991 encadrant les principes de l'agriculture biologique seulement à la vigne. Ce n'est qu'en 2012 qu'est publié un nouveau cahier des charges européen stipulant cette fois une réglementation de l'agriculture biologique également en cave.
Comme susmentionné, le vin issu de l'agriculture bio existe théoriquement depuis toujours mais ce n'est donc que depuis 2012 qu'il est encadré et réglementé par un cahier des charges stricte à la vigne comme au chai. Pour faire un résumé succinct de ses obligations, le vin bio doit être composé de raisins certifiés biologiques, tout comme le sucre, le moût ou l'alcool qui sont utilisés lors de la chaptalisation et le mutage. Aussi, son cahier des charges interdit certaines pratiques de vinification comme la désalcoolisation, l'électrodialyse ou la thermovinification. L'Union Européenne ordonne également un taux de sulfite inférieur de 50 milligrammes par litre par rapport aux vins conventionnels, soit 100 milligrammes par litre maximum pour les vins rouges bio et 150 milligrammes par litre maximum pour les vins blancs bio.
Le secteur du bio est en plein essor, il représente près de 10% des surfaces viticoles mondiales en 2021 avec une croissance de +3.2% par rapport à 2020 et +78% en 10 ans. La France est leader dans le domaine en accueillant près d'un tiers des vignes biologiques mondiales, suivie de ses voisins italiens et espagnols. Mais l'agriculture biologique n'est pas seulement un bienfait pour l'environnement, c'est également un vecteur de bien-être social. Selon une étude menée par Riccardo Vecchio, l'industrie des vins issus de l'agriculture biologique crée 50% d'emplois en plus que l'industrie du vin conventionnel, offrant des emplois d'ailleurs plus stables avec un tiers des exploitations certifiées embauchant un ou plusieurs salariés permanents, contre un sur cinq pour les exploitations non certifiées.
Quels sont les différents labels bio reconnus en France?
C'est l'INAO qui délègue les activités de contrôle et de certification Agriculture Biologique à des organismes certificateurs indépendants et agréés, dont Agrocert, Bureau Veritas Certification France, Certipaq bio, Certis, Certisud, Ecocert, Qualisud, Bureau Alpes Contrôles. Tous les ans, les vignobles certifiés sont auditées par un de ces organismes, en cas d'irrégularité c'est un catalogue unique de mesures qui est appliqué. Un projet de label pour identifier les exploitations en phase de conversion (sur une ou plusieurs années) est également à l'étude.
Cependant, pour certains vignerons le label AB est trop souple et laisse place à une agriculture qui se veut biologique mais qui présente des dérives à certains égards industrielles, avec notamment un soutien de la grande distribution qui tente de s'accaparer ces nouvelles opportunités de marché. Dès lors, deux nouveaux labels voient le jour: Nature & Progrès et Bio Cohérence présentent un cahier des charges plus strict avec notamment l'interdiction de vente par les canaux de grande distribution, une mesure dont la mise en place vise à favoriser le circuit court.
A noter qu'il existe de nombreux autres labels catégorisant les vins bio qui présentent un cahier des charges plus strict. Demeter et Biodyvin encadrent les vins biodynamiques ou issus d'une vinification en biodynamie, une viticulture ésotérique qui considère la vigne comme un écosystème vivant avec une législation plus rigoureuse sur les opérations réalisées en cave. Plus strict que la biodynamie (ou vin biodynamique), le label Vin Méthode Nature propose une charte du vin nature avec un accent mis sur le faible ajout de sulfites dans le vin et l'usage de levures indigènes. Terra Vitis et Haute Valeur Environnementale sont deux labels qui agissent en faveur du développement durable, passant par la préservation de la biodiversité, des stratégies phytosanitaires et une gestion de la fertilisation et de l'irrigation des sols.
Enfin, il convient également de rappeler que de nombreux viticulteurs refusent d'être catégorisés dans un label quel qu'il soit car cela reviendrait à renier le principe du contre-modèle agricole: s'émanciper des normes standardisées, ne pas rentrer dans des cases. On peut y voir un moyen pour le vigneron de s'affirmer comme unique et identitaire.
En quoi consommer du vin bio est meilleur pour l'environnement ?
L'une des grandes forces des vignerons bio c'est leur capacité à redonner vie aux sols ainsi qu'à la faune et flore environnante. En France, la viticulture concentre 20% de l'usage des pesticides agricoles, contre seulement 3% des surfaces agricoles. La viticulture biologique s'impose donc comme un espoir écologique: peu voire pas d'utilisation des produits phytosanitaires, un recours aux engrais organiques et au compost, une réduction jusqu'à un tiers des émissions de CO2 par rapport au vin conventionnel. Avec un meilleur respect de la vigne, on assiste d'un côté à une renaissance des sols qui vient ralentir l'érosion et favoriser la faune et flore souterraine, et d'un autre côté à une renaissance des pollinisateurs (abeilles, papillons...) grâce à une présence de vie de plus en plus accrue entre les vignes (haies, plantes sauvages, arbustes...).
La viticulture biologique permet également une meilleure gestion de l'eau avec notamment moins de stress hydrique (plus de matière organique dans les sols permet de mieux retenir l'eau) et surtout une plus faible irrigation artificielle (on privilégie plutôt la résilience de la vigne). Chaque cuvée, chaque millésime, chaque bouteille, en bref chaque vin issu de l'agriculture biologique est donc directement influencé par les aléas climatiques, ce qui permet de produire un vin (vin rouge, vin blanc, vin rosé, vin orange, vin pétillant) à la personnalité propre et bien marquée.
En quoi consommer du vin bio est-ce meilleur pour la santé ?
Nul ne peut nier que l'alcool et donc le vin est dangereux pour la santé et est à consommer avec modération, néanmoins là où le vin conventionnel peut contenir des résidus de pesticides, intrants et produits chimiques, le vin biologique lui réduit la présence de ces substances nocives. Il regorge également de bactéries et levures vivantes qui peuvent avoir des bienfaits sur le microbiote, parmi lesquels on retrouve une amélioration du fonctionnement des vaisseaux sanguins, une amélioration de la protection des cellules du cerveau contre les dommages cognitive, une réduction du risque de certains types de cancer (et notamment le cancer du sein), une meilleure digestion grâce à la production d'enzymes digestives stimulées par le vin.
Une autre qualité indéniable du vin biologique pour la santé, c'est la réduction des sulfites, ces conservateurs utilisés massivement dans le vin conventionnel pour stabiliser le vin. A quantité équivalente ingérée, un vin biologique causera moins de maux de tête le lendemain qu'un vin conventionnel !
Quels sont les avantages à faire du bio pour les vignerons ?
Quand on parle de vin bio, on pense souvent à la santé de notre planète ou de notre corps mais on pense bien moins souvent à celle de nos vignerons. Il n'est malheureusement pas rare d'observer des cas de cancers ou problèmes respiratoires chez les viticulteurs, à cause des produits chimiques de synthèse utilisés comme les pesticides, herbicides, fongicides ou engrais. A l'inverse, le vin bio a pour ambition la réduction drastique de ces substances, une viticulture biologique est donc bénéfique pour ceux qui travaillent la vigne au quotidien.
Bien que l'agriculture biologique demande davantage d'efforts physiques et organisationnels, elle expose largement moins les viticulteurs aux produits toxiques. L'utilisation de méthodes alternatives est par ailleurs bénéfique d'un point de vue psychologique dans la mesure où certains producteurs déclarent que la qualité du vin bio produit offre et apporte un sens profond à leur métier, et selon un cercle vertueux, cela permet de préserver une relation respectueuse, attentive et intuitive à leur travail du vin.
Mais l'agriculture biologique est également synonyme de circuit court et donc de soutien des économies locales avec un jeu gagnant pour tous : le consommateur dispose d'une traçabilité totale des bouteilles consommées et le producteur dispose d'un revenu qui reflète davantage la réalité de son travail. On obtient donc un système vertueux où le viticulteur dispose de davantage de moyens financiers, il peut donc se permettre d'expérimenter de nouvelles choses (nouveaux cépages par exemple) et ainsi augmenter la satisfaction de ses consommateurs.
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Unit price perAmong the Vines with the Natural Winegrowers of Auvergne
Sparkling Mead,
L'Arbre aux Abeilles
L'Arbre aux Abeilles' sparkling dry mead is made with the same honey as the still mead and has the same aromatic characteristics with a festive note: persistence, floral, apple, and citrus notes, enhanced by a subtle acidity. The fine bubbles are obtained using the traditional method of ancient Gaillac wines, with the residual must re-fermented inside the bottle. Open on festive occasions, as an aperitif, or even with a meal.
Susucaru Rosato Rosé 2022
Frank Cornelissen
The Susucaru Rosato blend is a tribute to Sicily and Mount Etna: 25% Insolia, 25% Malvasia, 25% Nerello Mascalese, 25% Moscadella, and all the vines grow directly on the slopes of Mount Etna. The color is intense pink, the nose carries citrus and white flowers, and the palate is fruity, dense, fresh, and delicious, with that delicate bitterness and melancholic bite that is the signature of this wine. Many aficionados are impatiently waiting for each vintage of this emblematic cuvée from the master of Etna, and some couldn't imagine their aperitif without it. Susucaru rosato delights rosé lovers and lesser fans alike, those initiated into natural wine as well as beginners. Can we really call it a rosé? Technically yes, in terms of taste and color, this little marvel is both a rosé and a thirst-quenching red. A cuvée that remains true to itself. "Our rosé," explains Frank Cornelissen, "is produced with the same philosophy and winemaking techniques as all our other wines: skin-contact maceration for texture and territorial identity, fully completed malolactic fermentation for density, fluidity, and stability. It's not just a refreshing summer wine; it's also a "rosé" that can also be considered a light red, like a "Jura" wine, which pairs well with a wide variety of dishes." »
To find out more
A major figure and universally respected figure in natural wine, Frank Cornelissen is a classic. This man of constant questioning lives in human and cosmic resonance with his contrasting terroir: he has demonstrated that the powerful minerality of a great volcanic soil can be enhanced by the naturalness of his wines. The brilliance, the directness and the exquisite fruitiness of his vintages earn him the admiration even of those reluctant to accept "natural." They are good introductory wines.
His Sicilian azienda is located in Passopisciaro, in the north of the Etna valley. It is, he says, the "côte de Nuits" of Etna for the great diversity of its wines spread over numerous locations (contrade) at different altitudes. The climate is continental and harsh, even snowy, in winter, but very warm and sunny from June to September. The altitude gives the wines tension and elegance. The vines coexist with a Mediterranean mixed crop: olive trees, almond trees, vegetable gardens... (Frank also produces olive oil). The vines range in age from forty to over one hundred years. The nineteen plots, covering twenty-four hectares in total, are all at altitude, between 600 and 900 meters, on several volcanic flows. They are all vinified separately: Frank decides on the blend based on the quality of the wines from each plot. In general, seven or eight vintages are produced in addition to the generic wines (rosé, basic red, and white). The soils are made of different types of basalt, between powder and rock, with perfect drainage that allows for concentrated and refined wines. Nerello Mascalese dominates the estate's grape varieties. This great traditional red grape variety from the northern valley of Etna is the only grape variety used in the great vintages. Its growing cycle is long, which allows the vine to work the soil and capture its minerality in the fruit. Other grape varieties include: Nerello Cappuccio, Minella Bianco, Minella Nera, Alicante Bouschet, Malvasia, Cattaratto, Moscadella, Grecanico Dorato, Carricante…
Sémélé Rosé 2022
Sémélé, exclusively from Culinaries, is an organic and natural rosé wine from the island of Samos (Greece) that is part of Patrick Bouju's Sous le Végétal project in partnership with Culinaries. Its name alludes to the myth of Semele, mistress of Zeus and mother of Dionysus, god of Wine and Intoxication.
In the Vineyard
Sous le Végétal vintages are primarily based on Samos Muscat à petits grains and, more rarely, on other local grape varieties. Here, the red Avgoustiatis grape variety is blended in equal parts with Muscat. The vines are managed biodynamically and in permaculture.
In the cellar
A blend of avgoustiatis (a very common red grape variety in Greece) macerated for a week and directly pressed muscat, all organic, Sémélé is neither filtered nor fined.
Tasting
With its deep, lively and seductive color, its fruitiness of strawberry and raspberry and its lovely tannins, Sémélé is a natural rosé that leans towards a light red. It will go well with tapas, mezes, starters and Mediterranean dishes: we recommend pairing it with taramas by Lionel Durot, with smoked fish or seafood hors d'oeuvres by Saumon de France, or with the delicious poutargue de Martigues by Frédéric Paez.
Learn more about Sous le Végétal
Under the plant lies the mineral: this is the meaning of this concept of natural and additive-free vintages exclusively for Culinaries, produced in Greece, on the island of Samos, by a team gathered around Patrick Bouju. Sous le Végétal also takes under its wing the vintages A la Natural signed by Patrick Bouju.
History (and geography)
Sous le Végétal marks the rebirth of the thousand-year-old vineyard of this island in the eastern Aegean Sea with its dense, wooded vegetation. This rich plant life covers a unique and varied subsoil: volcanic rocks (basalts), limestone, quartz, pink granites, schists, iron cast iron... In Sous le Végétal, the winemakers of Samos rediscover the wine they made in their childhood, proving once again that natural wine allows, through innovative projects, to reconnect with forgotten traditions.
Grape varieties and vinification
Four of the seven vintages of Sous le Végétal — Livia, Hüpnos, Octave, Palli & Genesia and Auguste — are produced on around sixty plots of Samos muscat à petits grains between 400 and 910 meters above sea level. The other vintages, Auguste, Alexandre and Sémélé, are respectively based on avgoustiatis or asyrtiko, blended or not with Samos muscat. Each plot is vinified separately. Four types of winemaking containers are used: amphorae, concrete eggs, stainless steel vats, and 500-liter barrels. Each lieu-dit is vinified in at least two of the four containers, and the wine is aged in black, wax-sealed bottles. No sulfites are added or filtration is performed.
Picapol White 2022
Gourmet, lively, and friendly, Picapol plays with finesse and good humor on a classic Hérault wine that definitely deserves to be better known. As part of his wine merchant business, Patrick Bouju focuses here on Picpoul de Pinet, an ancient Languedoc grape variety that thrives on the seaside and saline flavors. The Picpoul grapes were harvested by the sea, in Pinet itself, and pressed directly before being vinified in stainless steel vats using indigenous yeasts. This makes a lovely, chilled white wine, a good excuse to rush out and indulge in raw seafood (oysters, clams, clams, mussels), raw or grilled fish, pasta with bottarga, or even bouillabaisse and bourride.
Find out more
Near Billom, the Limagne clermontoise rises towards the east to form a hilly area with a mild climate, dominated by volcanic hills. This is the Auvergne Tuscany, so named because of its resemblance to the Italian province. This land of mixed subsistence farming was once covered in vines and was the preferred domain of Gamay d'Auvergne, a robust old strain, the origin of dense, deep and fruity wines. This is where Patrick Bouju cultivates and vinifies, on these high-quality volcanic soils and mainly on old vines. The soils vary between basalt, limestone, clay-limestone, and pozzolan. Patrick collects and cares for the best terroirs of Puy-de-Dôme, often abandoned, and gives them new life. He also preserves the native grape varieties, of which he cultivates a good fifty, and simultaneously works as a wine merchant using purchased organic grapes. The current renaissance of the Auvergne vineyard (which was once the third largest in France) owes much to Patrick. The fact that he enjoys lending a helping hand to his winegrowing friends in France and elsewhere only confirms his image as a role model, a leader. His partnerships are famous: with Action Bronson for the series A la Natural, with Jason Ligas in Greece for Sous le Végétal… Patrick practices long macerations, and the wines rest for up to six months after bottling. Very sensitive to sulfites in wines, Patrick has found that his wines do very well without them. He also found that if the grapes are healthy and concentrated, balance occurs naturally, regardless of the successive phases a vintage goes through. His noble, chiseled, distinguished, never bland wines are immediately recognizable in the glass. They are straight, clean, precise, often marked by floral notes and a spicy minerality. They also constitute a formidable anthology of the terroirs and ancient vines of Lower Auvergne and its volcanic soils.
J - Jacquere 2018
Patrick Bouju
J for jacquère, this beautiful Savoyard white grape variety vinified by Patrick Bouju from grapes from plots unearthed with the help of Jean-Yves Péron, somewhere near Chambéry. A distinguished, structured, and characterful maceration white that can be aged for a few years.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
GT Garrut Red 2019,
Partida Creus
GT Garrut is a surprise, a lovely and unusual single-varietal wine. The purplish color alone hints at its originality. It is made entirely from Garrut, a Catalan grape variety related to Mourvèdre, also called Monastrell. GT Garrut displays beautiful, earthy and intense qualities, with a strong black fruit character, particularly blackberry (blackberry or tree blackberry). Beautiful red fruit notes as well, and a delicious acidity. This brilliant wine, perfect for the summer months, is harvested by hand. Entirely destemmed, the grapes macerate for three days with punching down every three hours, and alcoholic fermentation with indigenous yeasts takes place for four months in stainless steel vats, followed by twenty months in oak barrels. Unfiltered, unfined, no added sulfites. GT Garrut smells of family vines, artisanal, and limitless wine.
Find out more
Partida Creus is an important estate, both in terms of winemaking and history—we're talking about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont—and even from the Langhe region, where wine is well-known—first pursued careers as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug bit them, and they soon abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they find a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties that they passionately revive to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. For them, it is not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it is a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will never stop making from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to give their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: Partida Creus is a veritable conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties. It also grows moscatel, grenache, merlot and cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with the winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-variety wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the vintage. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush yet always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, exude life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.
Sans Ordonnance Red 2020,
Les Vignes du Domaine du Temps
Sans Ordonnance is a balanced, straightforward, and solid red, slightly saline on the finish, remarkable for its freshness and minerality, but without astringency. The fruit is ripe without excessive exuberance. This is a table wine that can be paired with traditional dishes, roasts, and stews. It confirms the straightforward style of the estate, and the melting tannins are remarkable: no astringency, but fruit, maturity, minerality, and a hint of plum. Fresh, ripe, and balanced, this is a solid wine that will lend itself to all occasions and all meals. Made from equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Sans ordonnance evokes a Bordeaux blend. Yes, but... both varieties grew under the Cathar sun and, in addition to the freshness and seriousness of the Gironde model, offer very different, sunny and generous notes. Vinification is done in concrete vats after destemming, before aging for twelve months in old barrels.
To find out more
The Domaine du Temps is located in Cabardès, a small region of Languedoc that was once a subdivision of Cathar Country. Running from the southern slope of the Montagne Noire to the city of Carcassonne, it is bordered to the west by Lauragais and to the east by Minervois. Hilly, wild, rich in Mediterranean flora, it is a preserved ecosystem, especially since the Domaine du Temps, in the place called Font Juvénal, is a magical place: around a former 18th-century priory, sixty hectares of forests and scrubland protect thirteen hectares of vineyards on stony clay-limestone soils. The balance between dryness and coolness is a boon for viticulture, with a wide range of grape varieties. In addition to the Languedoc grape varieties (Syrah, Grenache, Roussanne, Viognier, Muscat), Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Sémillon and Chenin are grown. The estate has been Ecocert certified since 1998, is entirely managed biodynamically, and has dedicated itself to natural wine since 2015. The work in the vineyard and cellar is methodical, rigorous, and attentive: only the best grapes are kept, resulting in small yields, and destemming is determined based on the ripeness of the bunch. The reds are vinified using carbonic maceration of individual grape varieties, with the blending taking place before the year's aging. The whites are slowly and gently pressed to extract only the best from the grapes. These precautions result in smooth, controlled wines with great integrity and very supple tannins. They are fresh, delicious, and expressive.
Cuvée 0.72+ (exclusive cuvée) white 2019
De Vini
0.72+ is a dry white wine produced by Christophe Bosque of De Vini, organic and natural, without any added sulfites or chemical additives. It comes directly from the Muscadet region, the Loire estuary. While it doesn't carry the Muscadet appellation (it's a Vin de France), it can be considered a Muscadet and enjoyed as such.
In the vineyard and in the winery
0.72+ Blanc de De Vini is made from 100% Melon de Bourgogne (another name for the Muscadet grape variety) grown in Maisdon-sur-Sèvre (Loire-Atlantique) on gabbro soils characteristic of the region. Gabbro is a granular igneous rock resting on a granite subsoil, and this produces splendid, vibrant, and mineral white wines. Gabbro and granite are Vinilibre's preferred soils and constitute a precious viticultural heritage. The wine was aged for one year in buried cement tanks (traditional in this region), on its lees, without any additives.
If you want to know…
The name of the cuvée comes from an anecdote: originally, due to a minor technical glitch during bottling, it didn't contain exactly the standard quantity. The error has since been corrected (0.72+ de De Vini is now in its fourth vintage).
Tasting
Let's hear from the winemaker: "It tastes divine!" Three years in the bottle have only served to polish, refine, and enhance it. "The older the gabbro, the better it is," its creator also confides. This wine is excellent to drink now or later, well chilled. An elegant acidity blended with a balancing roundness, a saline and mouthwatering character make 0.72+ an unfailing companion to raw seafood, oysters, sashimi and sushi, fish tartares and carpaccios, or smoked fish. This cuvée is also available in red.
Learn more about Christophe Bosque and De Vini
De Vini, along with the Vinilibre wine trading business, is the multifaceted venture of Christophe Bosque, originally from Saint-Nazaire. Wine has always been his passion. We are particularly interested in his local creations, made from grapes grown on his two-hectare vineyard and fermented in a traditional Nantes-style underground vat—a true reinvention of Muscadet (outside the appellation) in a natural style.
Gabbro melt
After years working as a wine merchant, importer, and then winemaker, this former cameraman, who holds a vocational diploma in oenology and viticulture, acquired a few plots (two hectares) of Melon de Bourgogne vines in 2017 in Gorges, Loire-Atlantique, near Clisson. The soils there consist of gabbro on a granite subsoil, a pedological configuration specific to the Nantes region and particularly to Clisson. Christophe is full of praise for this type of soil.
Muscadet, but better
Christophe's wines may be made from grapes sourced from the finest French terroirs, particularly in Languedoc, but the winemaker retains a special affection for his own vines, which he tends with passion and a deep respect for the terroir. His labels and appellations reveal a touch of humor and a flair for the pun, but inside the bottle, it's serious business: wines off the beaten path, just the way he likes them.
Munjebel White 2019,
A key figure in natural wine, a universally respected figure in this category of wines, Frank Cornelissen is a classic. This man of constant questioning lives in human and cosmic resonance with his contrasting terroir: he has demonstrated that the powerful minerality of a great volcanic soil can be enhanced by the naturalness of his wines. The brilliance, integrity, and exquisite fruitiness of his vintages earn him the admiration even of those reluctant to accept "natural." They are good introductory wines.
His Sicilian azienda is located in Passopisciaro, in the northern Etna Valley. It is, he says, the "Night Coast" of Etna for the great diversity of its wines spread over many locations (contrade) at different altitudes. The climate is continental and harsh, even snowy, in winter, but very warm and sunny from June to September. The altitude gives the wines tension and elegance. The vines coexist with a Mediterranean polyculture: olive trees, almond trees, vegetable gardens... (Frank also produces olive oil). The age of the vines ranges from forty years to over one hundred years. The plots, nineteen in number, on twenty-four hectares in total, are all at altitude, between 600 and 900 meters, on several volcanic flows. They are all vinified separately: Frank decides on the blend based on the quality of the wines from each plot. In general, seven or eight vintages are made in addition to the generic wines (rosé, basic red and white). The soils are made up of different types of basalt, between powder and rock, with perfect drainage that allows for concentrated and fine wines.
Nerello Mascalese dominates the estate's grape varieties. This great traditional red grape variety from the northern valley of Etna is the only grape variety used in the great vintages. Its growing cycle is long, which allows the vine to work the soil and capture its minerality in the fruit. Other grape varieties include: Nerello Capuccio, Minella Bianco, Minella Nera, Alicante Bouschet, Malvasia, Cattaratto, Moscadella, Grecanico Dorato, Carricante...
Produced on mid-altitude plots from Grecanico Dorato and Carricante in equal parts, on the Calderara, Borriglione, Crasà and Picciolo plots, this white is very ripe. It combines beautiful concentration, freshness, and oriental aromas: orange blossom, jasmine, dried apricot. The vines are over forty years old; the grapes are destemmed, lightly crushed, and macerated for about four days. No fining, no sulfiting, and light filtration before bottling. This wine pairs well with an almost infinite variety of dishes, meat and fish, oysters and shellfish, and all Asian cuisines.
Munjebel Rosso Red 2017
The Munjebel 2017 from Frank Cornelissen is the purest expression of Nerello Mascalese, the emblematic grape variety of Etna. This natural wine, with no added sulfites, comes from a careful blend of several plots in the northern valley of the volcano, some of which are responsible for the estate's most prestigious vintages: Zottorinoto-Chiusa Spagnolo, Feudo di Mezzo-Porcaria, and Pontale Palino. In addition, there are vines specially dedicated to this cuvée, located on the volcanic terroirs of Rampante, Piano Daini, and Crasà.
At first glance, its translucent ruby color and radiant seduces with its elegance. On the nose, the wine reveals an intense and refined aromatic palette: wild red fruits, black cherry, raspberry, mixed with touches of sweet spices and smoky minerality, typical of the basaltic soils of Etna. On the palate, the Munjebel 2017 combines depth and finesse. It presents structured but silky tannins, vibrant acidity and an almost airy texture reminiscent of certain great Burgundies. The balance between the richness of ripe fruit and the mineral tension makes this a wine of great complexity and remarkable length.
With its significant aging potential, this Munjebel gains depth with age, but can already be enjoyed today after decanting. Served between 16 and 18°C, it will pair wonderfully with grilled prime rib, lamb with wild herbs, or mushroom risotto.
€12,50
Unit price per€12,50
Unit price perCyprès de Toi Red 2022
An ode to the southern grape varieties, a beautiful, dense, and deep red from Languedoc. Its freshness and density also make it a thirst-quenching wine that also performs very well with food. Cyprès de Toi Rouge is to be enjoyed in all circumstances; it is a wine for all occasions. Very drinkable, straightforward, and structured, it is the result of a blend of the estate's young vines: Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan, destemmed and vinified separately with indigenous yeasts in concrete vats, a traditional method in the Corbières. This fermentation and aging method owes its total absence of oak, allowing for a very pure fruity experience. No inputs are used in the vineyard, the winery, or the bottling process. This is practiced all year round, as the estate keeps the juices in vats: the idea is that there is never a shortage. It will be an ideal companion for Iberian ham, red or white meats, duck, and all grilled dishes.
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This Corbières estate is built on solid foundations: its two winemakers, Rodolphe and Laetitia, are also descendants of winemakers. Even before planting their first vine, they already had a clear objective: "to produce southern wines that reflect us, wines with character attached to our soils, with freshness and refined tannins." They want to obtain entirely natural wines, concentrates of terroir. In the heart of the old Corbières massif, they took over an old estate already planted with abandoned Carignan and Grenache vines, which had not seen any fertilizer or pesticides for years: these clean and vibrant soils were ideal conditions for launching into natural wine. Around this historic heart, they first planted Grenache Noir and Syrah, then a plot of white grape varieties: Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne. The estate has been Ecocert certified since 2010 and also complies with the Nature & Progrès charter. Vinification is carried out without the addition of sulfites or exogenous yeasts. "We make wines for pleasure," say Laetitia and Rodolphe. For them, natural wine is first assessed by taste, from the harvest. The vintages closely follow the plots, the musts are fruity, fluid, and complex. Fond Cyprès wines poetically evoke the estate's ecosystem and the vegetation that protects the plots: pine forests, shaded springs, the beauty of the natural environment that brings freshness to the wines and leaves the signature of the soil. Deliciously balanced between mineral imprint, plant environment and fruit expression, Fond Cyprès wines reflect the South: the caress of its sun, but also the freshness of its shadows.
Sereibroc Red 2015
Sereibroc is Corbières in reverse. Centuries-old Carignan vines and a few Grenache vines, both growing on red clay soils well exposed to the sun and the tramontane winds, produced this powerful yet fresh wine, with lovely acidity, beautiful animal notes, and earthy, fruity, and candied aromas (cocoa, prune, fig). The harvest macerates for ninety days in concrete vats, and the wine spends two years in bottles. Extended decanting is recommended.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Munjebel White 2020,
The white version of the Munjebel cuvée combines beautiful concentration, freshness, and oriental aromas: orange blossom, jasmine, and dried apricot. Produced on mid-altitude plots from equal parts Grecanico Dorato and Carricante, in the Calderara, Borriglione, Crasà, and Picciolo plots, this white wine is extremely mature. The vines are over forty years old; the grapes are destemmed, lightly crushed, and macerated for about four days. No fining, no sulfiting, and lightly filtered before bottling. This wine will pair with an almost infinite variety of dishes, meat and fish, oysters and shellfish, and all Asian cuisines.
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A great must-have and universally respected figure in natural wine, Frank Cornelissen is a classic. This man of constant questioning lives in human and cosmic resonance with his contrasting terroir: he has demonstrated that the powerful minerality of a great volcanic soil could be highlighted by the naturalness of his wines. The brilliance, the directness and the exquisite fruitiness of his vintages earn him the admiration even of those reluctant to go "natural". They are good initiation wines.
His Sicilian azienda is located in Passopisciaro, in the northern Etna valley. It is, he says, the "Night Coast" of Etna for the great diversity of its wines spread over many locations (contrade) at different altitudes. The climate is continental and harsh, even snowy, in winter, but very warm and sunny from June to September. The altitude gives the wines tension and elegance. The vines coexist with a Mediterranean polyculture: olive trees, almond trees, vegetable gardens... (Frank also produces olive oil). The age of the vines ranges from forty years to over one hundred years. The plots, nineteen in number, on twenty-four hectares in total, are all at altitude, between 600 and 900 meters, on several volcanic flows. They are all vinified separately: Frank decides on the blend based on the quality of the wines from each plot. In general, seven or eight vintages are made in addition to the generic wines (rosé, basic red and white). The soils are made up of different types of basalt, between powder and rock, with perfect drainage that allows for the production of concentrated and fine wines.
Nerello Mascalese dominates the estate's grape varieties. This great traditional red grape variety from the northern valley of Etna is the only grape variety used in the great vintages. Its growing cycle is long, which allows the vine to work the soil and capture its minerality in the fruit. Other grape varieties include: Nerello Capuccio, Minella Bianco, Minella Nera, Alicante Bouschet, Malvasia, Cattaratto, Moscadella, Grecanico Dorato, Carricante…
€76,90
Unit price per€76,90
Unit price perMercurey Les Vignes Blanches Qvevris Red 2019,
This Mercurey Les Vignes Blanches Qvevris 2019, by Frédéric Cossard, is a pure and unique interpretation of this exceptional Côte Chalonnaise appellation. Through an entirely natural approach and qvevri vinification, it reveals a rare expression of Pinot Noir, marked by finesse and depth.
The Mercurey AOC enhanced by qvevri vinification
Located in Burgundy, the Mercury AOC is one of the most prestigious in the Côte Chalonnaise, renowned for its reds elegant and structured. Here, Frédéric Cossard goes further by exploring an ancestral method: fermentation and aging in buried terracotta jars, as in Georgia. This bold choice promotes gentle micro-oxygenation, giving the wine a velvety texture and great aromatic purity.
A natural, full-bodied, and refined Pinot Noir
Produced through whole-bunch maceration, this Mercurey reveals a complex nose of morello cherries, black fruits, and delicate notes of roasted. On the palate, it impresses with its sap, fullness and density, supported by tannins of remarkable finesse. The clay-limestone terroir provides balance and freshness, while a year of aging in qvevri refines its airy character.
A wine for gastronomy and aging
Served at 16-18°C, this Mercurey will pair wonderfully with a grilled rib-eye steak, beef fillet en croute, or roast duck. Natural, with no added sulfites, it can be enjoyed now for its vibrant fruit or aged for 5 to 10 years to reveal its full complexity. A rare and sought-after wine, a testament to the talent of Frédéric Cossard.
Coince ta bulle Sparkling Rosé 2022
Château Frédignac
"A true delight, we can say: this pet' nat' is worthy of rivaling the blockbusters of the genre. A lovely pale amber-salmon color, unfiltered; a label evoking the crispness and fullness of a grape berry: Coince ta bulle is a natural sparkling rosé wine from Château Frédignac, in other words a Crémant Bordeaux in the Vin de France category produced in the Blaye-Côtes-de-Bordeaux appellation. This lovely, fresh, lively, joyful, and festive wine, with light notes of red fruits, is well on its way to becoming a pet' nat' classic. One hundred percent Merlot, obtained by a brief maceration on the skins of the destemmed harvest, it is a fruity delight, both round and dry, whose fine bubbles are made to accompany all kinds of tasty foods in a friendly atmosphere. It is a magnificent gastronomic wine that lends itself to all pairings. Don't miss Coince ta bulle.
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Château Frédignac, a 100% organic estate (Nature & Progrès), is located in the Blaye-Côtes-de-Bordeaux appellation, very close to the small town of Blaye, practically on the banks of the Gironde. Founded in 1918 by Jean-Marie L’Amouller, a Breton sailor who found happiness on the right bank of the estuary — which is called “the River” here — it became a quality wine estate a few years later by absorbing the vineyard of a property with a centuries-old reputation, Château Saugeron. The appellation is best known for its velvety, deep red wines, in which Château Frédignac excels. But the achievements of this wine estate dedicated to respecting the terroir and virtuous agricultural practices do not end there: an organic white is produced, as well as several natural cuvées of various colors, from pet'nat'rosé to still red. The red grape varieties are typical of the appellation — the two Cabernets, Franc and Sauvignon; Merlot, Carménère and Côt (Malbec) — and the whites (Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon) are similar. The clay-limestone soils promote both soil drainage and their beneficial freshness for the vines. Combined with methods that are deeply respectful of the soil, plants, animals and winemaking, these pedological conditions allow the Château Frédignac team to be proud of its wines: as worthy of their local tradition as they are in keeping with the desire to work as closely as possible to the natural.
fresh, fruity, fine bubbles, festive, joyful, pleasant, strawberry, raspberry, red fruits
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Grande Pestilence Red 2017
To make this blend of Cinsault and Grenache grown on schist soils in the Faugères appellation area, the Cinsault macerates whole bunches for sixty days with the partially destemmed Grenache, before aging for one year in vats. Its notes of white pepper, rose, and peony will complement grilled meats, charcuterie, and spicy terrines.
Aging potential: ten years.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Pairs with: Terrines and pâtés, Red meats, Grilled meats
€18,00
Unit price per€18,00
Unit price perLe Grenache du Bois Saint Jaume Rouge 2019,
Fond Cyprès
This Languedoc estate is built on solid foundations: its two winemakers, Rodolphe and Laetitia, are also descendants of winemakers. Even before planting their first vine, they already had a clear objective: "to produce southern wines that reflect our style, wines with character, rooted in our soils, with freshness and refined tannins." They aim to produce entirely natural wines, concentrated expressions of terroir. In the heart of the old Corbières massif, they took over an old estate already planted with abandoned Carignan and Grenache vines, which had not seen any fertilizer or pesticides for years: these clean and vibrant soils were ideal conditions for launching into natural wine. Around this historic heart, they first planted Grenache Noir and Syrah, then a plot of white grape varieties: Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne. The estate has been Ecocert certified since 2010 and also complies with the Nature & Progrès charter. Vinification is carried out without the addition of sulfites or exogenous yeasts. "We make wines for pleasure," say Laetitia and Rodolphe. For them, natural wine is first assessed by taste, from the harvest. The vintages closely follow the plots, the musts are fruity, fluid, and complex. Fond Cyprès wines poetically evoke the estate's ecosystem and the vegetation that protects the plots: pine forests, shady springs, the beauty of the natural environment that brings freshness to the wines and leaves the signature of the soil. Deliciously balanced between mineral imprint, plant environment and fruit expression, Fond Cyprès wines reflect the South: the caress of its sun, but also the freshness of its shadows.
This Grenache comes from a sandy plot of sixty-year-old vines surrounded by a forest. It is aged between nine and twelve months in old 228-liter barrels. Fresh, very supple, balanced, it is to drink or to keep. It is another example of Fond Cyprès' "forest" wines, marked not only by their grape varieties but also by the wooded and windy environment that refreshed the growth of the grapes. Delicate and velvety, this wine offers beautifully blended tannins and a magnificent balance.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Alexandre Blanc 2018,
Sous le Végétal
Alexandre is the latest addition to the Sous le Végétal series, a (successful) experiment conducted on the island of Samos (an archipelago in the eastern Aegean Sea) by the team of two winemakers, Patrick Bouju and Jason Ligas. This series, distributed exclusively by Culinaries, is organized around the revival of the island's dry-vinified vineyards, thus around the island's endemic Muscat à Petit Grain, as well as Avgoustiatis red grape vines. This Alexandre is a dry white wine that differs slightly from what the project has produced so far, as it is composed 100% of the Asyrtiko grape variety, a magnificent white grape variety indigenous to the Greek islands whose primary origin is the volcanic island of Santorini. It is present in other territories of Greece, island or not, and is particularly happy on volcanic soils where it faithfully transmits the mineral richness. It is thus also found on the island of Samos, where it superbly expresses the nature of the quartz and schist soils. The harvest is directly pressed, the aging is one year in stainless steel vats, concrete eggs and neutrally heated barrels. Alexandre is a joyful and slightly exuberant wine which offers the typical notes of asyrtiko at good maturity - notably bergamot, which is a distinctive mark of the grape variety, and candied lemon - placed on a beautiful mineral framework with a saline finish which is a common trait of the white cuvées of Sous le Végétal. It would be difficult to list the possible taste pairings with this wine, let's say that it corresponds to the adage "everything that is very good goes with everything that is very good". However, we will taste with it the whole assortment of mezedes of the Greco-Levantine tradition.
The design of the label of this bottle was created by the artist Fabrice Loiseau: Geimyo 鯨妙
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Beneath the plant lies the mineral: this is the meaning of this concept of natural vintages created in Greece, on the island of Samos, by a team of friends gathered around the winemakers Jason Ligas and Patrick Bouju. The successful venture marks a renaissance for the ancient vineyards of this island in the North Aegean Sea, which owes its dense, wooded vegetation to various nicknames received in Antiquity, from Dryoussa (“covered with oaks”) to Kyparissia (“covered with cypresses”) and Melamphyllos (“With dark foliage”). This natural wealth covers a unique and varied subsoil: volcanic rocks, including basalts, limestone, quartz, pink granites, schists, iron cast iron, etc. The idea was born from Jason’s meeting with the Samos Wine Cooperative. Patrick Bouju soon joined the project. The five vintages of Sous le Végétal — Livia, Hüpnos, Octave, Palli & Genesia, Alexandre, and Auguste—are produced on around sixty plots of Samos Muscat à petits grains (as well as Avgoustiatis for the red cuvée and Asyrtiko for Alexandre), between 400 and 910 meters above sea level. Each plot is vinified separately. For vinification, four types of containers are used: amphorae, concrete eggs, stainless steel vats, and 500-liter barrels. Each lieu-dit is vinified in at least two of the four containers, and the wine is aged in black bottles sealed with wax. No sulfur is added, no filtration: the winemakers of Samos rediscover wine as it was made in their childhood. This is one of the wonders of natural wine: it allows, through the most innovative projects, to reconnect with forgotten traditions. Sous le Végétal also takes under its wing the A la Natural cuvées by Patrick Bouju.
TN Tinto Natural Red 2021
Partida Creus
Powerful and structured, TN Tinto Natural offers beautiful tannins on the palate. It carries notes of undergrowth, white pepper, smoke, and dried hay, with a curious yeasty note. It is a very fine blend of Sumoll, Ull de Llebre, and Bobal that produces a solid yet fluid table wine, crisp and fruity (black fruits), enhanced with earthy and smoky notes. Excellent gurgling, a wine for friends, the owner's cuvée, full of sunshine and personality. TN Tinto Natural comes from old vines growing on clay-limestone soils. Maceration is carried out in whole bunches for four or five days, and fermentation with indigenous yeasts takes place in oak barrels. The wine also ages there for ten months and spends another month in stainless steel vats before being bottled without filtration or fining (or the addition of sulfites, of course). An excellent red wine for every day.
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Partida Creus is an important estate, both in terms of wine and history—we're talking about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont—and even from the Langhe region, where they know a lot about wines—first pursued careers as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug bit them, and soon they abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they find a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties that they passionately revive to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. For them, it is not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it is a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will never stop making from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to give their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: Partida Creus is a veritable conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties. It also grows moscatel, grenache, merlot and cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with the winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-variety wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the vintage. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush yet always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, exude life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.