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On fait souvent remonter la Genèse du vin au septième millénaire avant notre ère, dans le Caucase là où le vin était élevé en kvrevris (ou qvrevris), de grandes jarres de 3500 litres enterrées dans le sol. Traditionnellement, le vin a toujours été comme ce que l'on considère aujourd'hui bio mais la mention "vin bio" apparait elle à la fin du XXe siècle, en réaction à l'hyper-industrialisation du vin. En effet, c'est dans un contexte de globalisation du vin au sortir de la Seconde Guerre Mondiale que les productions viticoles commencent à inonder le marché mondial à coup de vins remplis d'intrants et produits chimiques de synthèse afin d'obtenir des rendements plus élevés et une production plus standardisée, c'est ce qu'on appelle le vin conventionnel. Le vin bio est donc une réponse logique au vin conventionnel, il se veut plus respectueux de l'environnement et répond à un cahier des charges stricte qui encadre la production du vin.
Le vin biologique est donc un vin (vin rouge, vin blanc, vin rosé, vin orange, vin pétillant) issu de l'agriculture biologique. Le vin bio a d'abord répondu au cahier des charges européen de 1991 encadrant les principes de l'agriculture biologique seulement à la vigne. Ce n'est qu'en 2012 qu'est publié un nouveau cahier des charges européen stipulant cette fois une réglementation de l'agriculture biologique également en cave.
Comme susmentionné, le vin issu de l'agriculture bio existe théoriquement depuis toujours mais ce n'est donc que depuis 2012 qu'il est encadré et réglementé par un cahier des charges stricte à la vigne comme au chai. Pour faire un résumé succinct de ses obligations, le vin bio doit être composé de raisins certifiés biologiques, tout comme le sucre, le moût ou l'alcool qui sont utilisés lors de la chaptalisation et le mutage. Aussi, son cahier des charges interdit certaines pratiques de vinification comme la désalcoolisation, l'électrodialyse ou la thermovinification. L'Union Européenne ordonne également un taux de sulfite inférieur de 50 milligrammes par litre par rapport aux vins conventionnels, soit 100 milligrammes par litre maximum pour les vins rouges bio et 150 milligrammes par litre maximum pour les vins blancs bio.
Le secteur du bio est en plein essor, il représente près de 10% des surfaces viticoles mondiales en 2021 avec une croissance de +3.2% par rapport à 2020 et +78% en 10 ans. La France est leader dans le domaine en accueillant près d'un tiers des vignes biologiques mondiales, suivie de ses voisins italiens et espagnols. Mais l'agriculture biologique n'est pas seulement un bienfait pour l'environnement, c'est également un vecteur de bien-être social. Selon une étude menée par Riccardo Vecchio, l'industrie des vins issus de l'agriculture biologique crée 50% d'emplois en plus que l'industrie du vin conventionnel, offrant des emplois d'ailleurs plus stables avec un tiers des exploitations certifiées embauchant un ou plusieurs salariés permanents, contre un sur cinq pour les exploitations non certifiées.
Quels sont les différents labels bio reconnus en France?
C'est l'INAO qui délègue les activités de contrôle et de certification Agriculture Biologique à des organismes certificateurs indépendants et agréés, dont Agrocert, Bureau Veritas Certification France, Certipaq bio, Certis, Certisud, Ecocert, Qualisud, Bureau Alpes Contrôles. Tous les ans, les vignobles certifiés sont auditées par un de ces organismes, en cas d'irrégularité c'est un catalogue unique de mesures qui est appliqué. Un projet de label pour identifier les exploitations en phase de conversion (sur une ou plusieurs années) est également à l'étude.
Cependant, pour certains vignerons le label AB est trop souple et laisse place à une agriculture qui se veut biologique mais qui présente des dérives à certains égards industrielles, avec notamment un soutien de la grande distribution qui tente de s'accaparer ces nouvelles opportunités de marché. Dès lors, deux nouveaux labels voient le jour: Nature & Progrès et Bio Cohérence présentent un cahier des charges plus strict avec notamment l'interdiction de vente par les canaux de grande distribution, une mesure dont la mise en place vise à favoriser le circuit court.
A noter qu'il existe de nombreux autres labels catégorisant les vins bio qui présentent un cahier des charges plus strict. Demeter et Biodyvin encadrent les vins biodynamiques ou issus d'une vinification en biodynamie, une viticulture ésotérique qui considère la vigne comme un écosystème vivant avec une législation plus rigoureuse sur les opérations réalisées en cave. Plus strict que la biodynamie (ou vin biodynamique), le label Vin Méthode Nature propose une charte du vin nature avec un accent mis sur le faible ajout de sulfites dans le vin et l'usage de levures indigènes. Terra Vitis et Haute Valeur Environnementale sont deux labels qui agissent en faveur du développement durable, passant par la préservation de la biodiversité, des stratégies phytosanitaires et une gestion de la fertilisation et de l'irrigation des sols.
Enfin, il convient également de rappeler que de nombreux viticulteurs refusent d'être catégorisés dans un label quel qu'il soit car cela reviendrait à renier le principe du contre-modèle agricole: s'émanciper des normes standardisées, ne pas rentrer dans des cases. On peut y voir un moyen pour le vigneron de s'affirmer comme unique et identitaire.
En quoi consommer du vin bio est meilleur pour l'environnement ?
L'une des grandes forces des vignerons bio c'est leur capacité à redonner vie aux sols ainsi qu'à la faune et flore environnante. En France, la viticulture concentre 20% de l'usage des pesticides agricoles, contre seulement 3% des surfaces agricoles. La viticulture biologique s'impose donc comme un espoir écologique: peu voire pas d'utilisation des produits phytosanitaires, un recours aux engrais organiques et au compost, une réduction jusqu'à un tiers des émissions de CO2 par rapport au vin conventionnel. Avec un meilleur respect de la vigne, on assiste d'un côté à une renaissance des sols qui vient ralentir l'érosion et favoriser la faune et flore souterraine, et d'un autre côté à une renaissance des pollinisateurs (abeilles, papillons...) grâce à une présence de vie de plus en plus accrue entre les vignes (haies, plantes sauvages, arbustes...).
La viticulture biologique permet également une meilleure gestion de l'eau avec notamment moins de stress hydrique (plus de matière organique dans les sols permet de mieux retenir l'eau) et surtout une plus faible irrigation artificielle (on privilégie plutôt la résilience de la vigne). Chaque cuvée, chaque millésime, chaque bouteille, en bref chaque vin issu de l'agriculture biologique est donc directement influencé par les aléas climatiques, ce qui permet de produire un vin (vin rouge, vin blanc, vin rosé, vin orange, vin pétillant) à la personnalité propre et bien marquée.
En quoi consommer du vin bio est-ce meilleur pour la santé ?
Nul ne peut nier que l'alcool et donc le vin est dangereux pour la santé et est à consommer avec modération, néanmoins là où le vin conventionnel peut contenir des résidus de pesticides, intrants et produits chimiques, le vin biologique lui réduit la présence de ces substances nocives. Il regorge également de bactéries et levures vivantes qui peuvent avoir des bienfaits sur le microbiote, parmi lesquels on retrouve une amélioration du fonctionnement des vaisseaux sanguins, une amélioration de la protection des cellules du cerveau contre les dommages cognitive, une réduction du risque de certains types de cancer (et notamment le cancer du sein), une meilleure digestion grâce à la production d'enzymes digestives stimulées par le vin.
Une autre qualité indéniable du vin biologique pour la santé, c'est la réduction des sulfites, ces conservateurs utilisés massivement dans le vin conventionnel pour stabiliser le vin. A quantité équivalente ingérée, un vin biologique causera moins de maux de tête le lendemain qu'un vin conventionnel !
Quels sont les avantages à faire du bio pour les vignerons ?
Quand on parle de vin bio, on pense souvent à la santé de notre planète ou de notre corps mais on pense bien moins souvent à celle de nos vignerons. Il n'est malheureusement pas rare d'observer des cas de cancers ou problèmes respiratoires chez les viticulteurs, à cause des produits chimiques de synthèse utilisés comme les pesticides, herbicides, fongicides ou engrais. A l'inverse, le vin bio a pour ambition la réduction drastique de ces substances, une viticulture biologique est donc bénéfique pour ceux qui travaillent la vigne au quotidien.
Bien que l'agriculture biologique demande davantage d'efforts physiques et organisationnels, elle expose largement moins les viticulteurs aux produits toxiques. L'utilisation de méthodes alternatives est par ailleurs bénéfique d'un point de vue psychologique dans la mesure où certains producteurs déclarent que la qualité du vin bio produit offre et apporte un sens profond à leur métier, et selon un cercle vertueux, cela permet de préserver une relation respectueuse, attentive et intuitive à leur travail du vin.
Mais l'agriculture biologique est également synonyme de circuit court et donc de soutien des économies locales avec un jeu gagnant pour tous : le consommateur dispose d'une traçabilité totale des bouteilles consommées et le producteur dispose d'un revenu qui reflète davantage la réalité de son travail. On obtient donc un système vertueux où le viticulteur dispose de davantage de moyens financiers, il peut donc se permettre d'expérimenter de nouvelles choses (nouveaux cépages par exemple) et ainsi augmenter la satisfaction de ses consommateurs.
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Adonis Red 2022,
Adonis is the red counterpart of Aphrodite and a superb organic (Ecocert) and natural dry white wine from the Coteaux du Loir, vinified by Renaud Guettier of La Grapperie, without additives, sulfites, or chemical additives.
Vinification
Adonis is made from Pineau d'Aunis, one of the oldest grape varieties in the Loire Valley Western. The vines, pruned in goblet form, are on average seventy-five years old and grow on black silt and limestone (tuffeau) soils. The harvest is manual, transported on horseback. Aging is twelve months in barrels.
Tasting
Draped in a beautiful garnet color, Adonis offers a complex nose of red fruits: strawberry, cherry, smoked blackberry, sweet herbs… On the palate, a beautiful structure between black pepper and raspberry. Spicy, fruity and peppery, with a lovely sweet and yeasty note on the attack that adds to its deliciousness, it is a gastronomic wine. You can pair it with oily fish (tuna, mackerel, sardines), sea or freshwater fish stews with red wine, but also roasts or grilled beef, charcuterie and traditional stews.
Learn more about Renaud Guettier and La Grapperie
In the Coteaux du Loir appellation, La Grapperie is the name of the estate of Renaud Guettier, who can be described as a master of Chenin, but also of Pineau d'Aunis, which is one of the oldest grape varieties in the Loire Valley.
The estate
Renaud's 60 hectares of vines, on the hillside, are protected from the north winds by the Bercé forest. Depending on the altitude, the terroirs are predominantly clay, flint or sand. The grape varieties are the two traditionally authorized in the appellation: Chenin for the whites and Pineau d'Aunis for 90% of the reds, the rest consisting of a few ares of Côt, Gamay and Grolleau. Some vines are more than a hundred years old.
In the vineyard and the winery
The entire estate is cultivated organically. The soils are worked and all viticultural interventions are manual, including the harvest, carried out at full maturity, which is reflected in the fullness and smoothness of the wines. For the reds, the Pineau d'Aunis is partially destemmed (depending on the plot) and the macerations are quite long, three to four weeks, with punching down, to promote aging potential. The wines are aged in barrels for between twelve and twenty-four months, then racked, blended and bottled without filtration. For the whites, the Chenins are pressed directly at low pressure then put into barrels with complete malolactic fermentation, for at least eighteen months, malolactic included, and sometimes up to thirty-six months.
XLC Xarel Lo Culinaries White 2022
Partida Creus
Culinaries Exclusive! This fruit of our collaboration with our favorite Catalan-Piedmontese, Antonella and Massimo, is a superb dry white from Catalonia, a unique and rare cuvée, and we are proud to present its first vintage. Classified as Vino de Mesa (table wine) and composed entirely of the indigenous Catalan Xarel·lo grape variety, this Culinaries cuvée is modeled on the estate's XL Xarel·lo, with notable differences. The wine is aged for a longer period and is done in demi-muids (large 500-650 liter barrels), which provides micro-oxygenation that enhances its complexity and fullness. It is therefore an "augmented" version of the XL, and it already tastes admirably, with a promise of great stability. Smoky, mineral, this Vino de Mesa (table wine) is already a classic, offering a pure and typical expression of xarel·lo. You can pair XL Xarel·lo Culinaries with the best of seafood, fish, white meats, roasted, grilled or cooked poultry in sauce...
Find out more
Partida Creus is an important estate, both in terms of wine and history – we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont – and even coming from the Langhe region, where they know a lot about wines – first pursued a career as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug tickles them, and soon they abandon the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they find a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties, which they passionately revive to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. For them, it's not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it's a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will never stop making from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to produce their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: Partida Creus is a veritable conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties. It also grows moscatel, grenache, merlot and cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with the winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-variety wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the vintage. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush yet always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, exude life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.
I Vicini Moscato Blanc 2020
Jean-Yves Péron
I Vicini Moscato is a Muscat d'Asti vinified dry; it therefore offers the aromatic and musky nose specific to the grape variety, but without the syrupy side that is sometimes associated with it, as a very present tannic structure balances the whole. On the palate, it is rich and powerful; we find the charming aroma of Muscat in the retro-olfaction, but with the tension and freshness that the winemaker favors for his dry whites. It is a table wine, with power and presence: not really for an aperitif, but for gastronomy, no limits.
Jean-Yves Péron's "I Vicini" series is made from grapes harvested in Piedmont; for I Vicini Moscato, we are dealing with the famous muscats of the terroirs of Asti. They grow on very fine limestone soils, calcareous-magnesian, and the Asti site benefits from a cold air current that brings increased freshness compared to the rest of the region. The harvest, manual, is carried out on grapes at a fairly advanced phenolic maturity. Maceration is long, with three months of punching down, after which everything is racked in January, pressed and sent directly into 300-liter barrels (new barrels, one-wine barrels and two-wine barrels) for a year of aging. No filtration, no addition of sulfites. Straightness, tension, and freshness: a very fine mountain Muscat.
To find out more
Jean-Yves Péron embodies the natural renaissance of the beautiful Savoyard vineyard, which has long suffered from a somewhat flimsy image, not taken seriously enough. Yet, what treasures its varied soils and numerous ancient grape varieties produce!
Near Conflans, in Albertville (Savoie), Jean-Yves Péron skillfully combines committed viticulture and merchant winemaking, both under the banner of nature and organic high-altitude vines. Initially destined for a career in biochemistry, he quickly became drawn to the vine and trained as an oenologist in Bordeaux. He learned his trade as a winemaker with Thierry Allemand in Cornas, then with Bruno Schueller in Alsace, before spending some time in New Zealand and the United States. Jean-Yves's current vineyard, one and a half hectares of which have been biodynamic since the beginning, is divided between Conflans, near Albertville, and Fréterive, a little further down in the Isère Valley. Composed of micro-plots of vines, it is staggered between 350 m and 550 m above sea level and is worked entirely by hand. His trading activity, which he began in 2011, allows him to buy the harvest from organic winegrowers close to him (such as Raphaël Marin and Adrien Dacquin). Also, the construction of a new winery in 2017 allows him to increase production and collaborate with winegrowers from Northern Italy: Paolo Angelino in Casale Monferrato (Turin), Giorgio Barbero in Asti. This is a new dimension given to his work as a winemaker, allowing him to diversify the terroirs and deepen his experiences in winemaking and aging. Jean-Yves Péron's winemaking follows the principles of minimal intervention. On narrow and steep surfaces, his mountain vines receive no synthetic products, Jean-Yves preferring horsetail and nettle manure. The surrounding vegetation is very rich: it protects the vines and helps to strengthen them. The soils are grassed, mown and reworked with a pickaxe and winch. The harvest is entirely manual. Once vatted in whole bunches, the grapes, both red and white, undergo a semi-carbonic maceration which allows the extraction of fresh fruit aromas. This maceration time varies between five days and nine weeks depending on the vintage. The day before or two days before pressing, Jean-Yves performs foot-treading directly in the vat. After this fermentation, the musts are sent to barrels for aging on lees for twelve months in five hundred liter barrels of two or three wines (to limit the oaky sensation), followed by blending and resting in vats. No sulfites are added, or as little as possible, and the wines are not fined or filtered.
UL Red 2019
Partida Creus is a winery located in Catalonia, founded by two Piedmontese natives from the Langhe (where wine is well-known), Antonella Gerosa and Massimo Marchiori. They initially pursued careers as architects in Barcelona, but the wine bug bit them, and they soon abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There, they found a wealth of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties, which they passionately revived to save these varieties—and their wines—from oblivion. For them, it's not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it's a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will continue to make from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to give their best juice. This is why their estate is as important from a winemaking perspective as it is from a historical perspective - we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia.
Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel.lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel.lo: Partida Creus is a veritable conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties. It also grows moscatel, grenache, merlot and cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with the winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-variety wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the vintage. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush but always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, breathe life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits exclamations of joy. This new red from Partida Creus is based on the ancient and indigenous grape variety called ull de llebre, which, you guessed it, means “hare’s eye.” What you might not guess is that this is the Catalan name for Tempranillo. It’s actually an old local version of this very Iberian grape, which Massimo and Antonella have nurtured in their own way. The wine is highly original: behind the minerality, the (black) fruit, the blueberry, and the freshness, we notice very fine tannins and aromatic herbs. A serious wine, a little grave, but did you know that serious wines make you joyful? Its length on the palate is astonishing. Decanting is highly recommended so that this wine can play its own unique music, down to the finest notes.
Himmel auf Erden Rosé 2018
An exceptional Austrian rosé
Forget everything you thought you knew about rosé. Himmel auf Erden 2018, a natural wine from Burgenland, challenges the rules with boldness and elegance. Made from Cabernet Franc, this Austrian rosé reveals a vibrant profile, far from the expected standards.
A unique and unadorned rosé
Made without filtration or added sulfur, this wine is the pure expression of the fruit and terroir. After careful destemming and crushing, it benefits from a year of aging in large barrels, giving it depth and complexity. The inspiration behind its name comes from a work by the iconoclastic artist Alfred Hrdlicka, adding an artistic dimension to this atypical cuvée.
An explosive nose, a palate full of life
Upon opening, Himmel auf Erden 2018 reveals an explosion of aromas: wild raspberry, wild berries, tomato leaf and a hint of aromatic herbs. On the palate, the energy is striking: a beautiful mineral tension, a light natural effervescence, and an irresistible sapidity that prolongs the pleasure.
Pairings and service
Ideal at 10-12°C, it will pair well with Mediterranean cuisine, plant-based dishes, and fine charcuterie. With no added sulfites, this rosé can be enjoyed in its purest form and promises a unique sensory experience.
With Himmel auf Erden 2018, rediscover rosé in a new light. A lively, bold wine.
La Bueilloise White 2013
A blend of young Chenin Blanc and Pinot d'Aunis vines growing on a flint-clay terroir. Harvested by hand at full maturity. Aged for twelve months on slats, without additives. Bottling is done by gravity without filtration, and disgorgement is done on the fly without the addition of preservatives. The Pineau d'Aunis brings a slight bitterness to the Chenin. Lively and intense bubbles, very well balanced.
A natural wine with no added sulfites.
Es d’aqui Trachéo Red 2016
This pure Grenache comes from the schist soils of Faugères. It is a superb wine, refined and fresh, beautifully fruity. It has aging potential for six or seven years, but can be enjoyed now. Nose of raspberry, rose, licorice, and Languedoc garrigue. On the palate, very well-integrated tannins. Beautiful energy, sunshine, and plenty of structure.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Puls'Art White 2022
Here's Puls'Art from Domaine Einhart, a natural, organic (Ecocert) macerated white wine classified as AOC Alsace. Don't confuse it with a Poulsard because of its name (the Poulsard grape variety is found in the Jura region, a little further south). This magical wine is called Puls’Art simply because it pulses, and skin-macerated Gewurztraminer is a great art—we affirm it.
Vinification
The Gewurztraminers used to produce Puls’Art, aged twenty-five years and sourced entirely on the estate, are harvested by hand and then destemmed. Maceration lasts one week, and fermentation is carried out using indigenous yeasts. Aging on fine lees is ten months in barrels, followed by unfiltered bottling. From the vine to the cellar, this wine was made without any additives.
Tasting
Puls’Art has a bright orange color. The first nose, very appealing, brings aromas of candied apricot and rose petals. The second nose, very fresh, evokes green cardamom. The attack on the palate is ample, balanced, with a velvety sensation. On the palate, we find the aromas of ripe apricot from the first nose. The finish is powerful and spicy, vibrant, "a limestone lollipop," according to the winemaker's expression. Decanting is recommended so that your Puls'Art spreads its wings and expresses its mineral and charming notes, both earthy and exotic. For pairings, it is all-terrain but also capable of the most delicate associations: do not hesitate to pair it with smoked fish, fine poultry, white meats, game birds, a wild mushroom risotto, and cheeses.
Learn more about the Einhart estate
In the northern part of the Alsatian vineyard, the Einhart estate is a ten-hectare family estate whose vines grow on the foothills of the Vosges mountains. The soil is clay-limestone and rich in fossils (muschelkalk, or shell limestone and oolite limestone, and lettenkohle or dolomitic limestone).
A family estate
Since 1990, Nicolas Einhart has been at the helm, now assisted by his son Théo. Faithful to his commitments to the TIFLO association, of which he is co-founder, Nicolas devotes his winemaking work to protecting the land and biodiversity, making wine without additives, refusing harmful phytosanitary products and maintaining ecological refuge areas. Its estate has been certified organic (Ecocert and AB) since 2011. The estate produces white wines from maceration or direct pressing and a Pinot Noir red.
The best of Alsatian terroirs
Entirely manual harvests, destemming of the bunches, light punching down and delicate pressing are characteristic of the estate, as well as the separate vinification of each terroir, aging on lees and the absence of filtration before bottling. The wines are pure grape, lively, powerful, invigorating, and transcribe the minerality of these very beautiful terroirs of the Vosges foothills.
Champagne Fleur d'Etoile Extra-Brut White non-vintage,
Fleur d'étoile is a zero-dosage extra-brut vinified without sulfur. Alcoholic fermentation takes place in 228-liter Burgundy barrels and aging is 99 months on slats. The result is a ripe and distinguished champagne, a textured wine with a brilliant color with golden yellow highlights, very emblematic of the Aube terroir. The nose, clean and aromatic, offers floral and vinous aromas. The attack on the palate confirms the balance, the mid-palate is characterized by freshness and acidity, and the finish offers aromas of citron peel with a nice bitterness. To serve it at the table, think of a galette des Rois filled with almond cream with candied citrus peel, aged comté cheese, or fine dishes in sauce (fish or poultry with yellow wine).
To find out more
Four generations of winemakers have succeeded one another at the head of Maison Fleury, a pioneer of biodynamics and natural wine in Champagne. Organic farming has been practiced for around thirty years with Demeter and Biodyvin certifications, and the vines have not seen any herbicides for fifty years. Fleury stands out for its organic and natural vintages, typical of the Côte des Bar, where Pinot Noir dominates, the main grape variety in this Fleur d'étoile vintage, with a touch of Chardonnay. The vines grow mainly on Kimmeridgian limestone, with a few plots on calcareous marl.
The Rosé Rosé 2022
Clos Des B
Desirably fruity, marked by red fruits and citrus zest (orange and lemon), the Rosé du Clos des B is (as its name suggests) a natural rosé wine emblematic of the sandy-schist terroir of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez and the unique microclimate of the hills of Grimaud. It welcomes us with its nose of red fruit sorbet, notes of small red fruits on the palate, and a zesty, citrusy finish. This wine is produced in the Côtes-de-Provence appellation and made from two southern grape varieties common in the region: 90% Grenache as the majority variety and 10% Cinsault. This is a direct-pressed rosé, without prior crushing, extracted using a vertical press after destemming the grapes and vinified in stainless steel vats. No crushing is performed. The two grape varieties ferment together in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, without added sulfites. No fining, filtration, or addition of sulfites at bottling.
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Clos des B (initials of the two owners, Gwendolyn Berger and Jean-Jacques Branger) is located in Grimaud, in the Gulf of Saint-Tropez. They are therefore the proud producers of the very first natural cuvées from this geographical area. Those who know that this region is home to some interesting viticulture will avoid thinking of the celebrity seaside resort and swimming pool rosé: before the two Bs bought these three hectares of vines, all these wines went to the cooperative cellar of the Vignerons de Saint-Tropez. Driven by a "thirst for vines," as they put it, Gwendolyn and Jean-Jacques overcame administrative difficulties, restored the vineyard, and soon produced reds, rosés, and even a blanc de noirs. Their grape varieties are typical of the region: Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, growing on schist sands crisscrossed by quartz veins. The property benefits from a microclimate that protects the vines from humidity, disease, and frost. The viticulture and winemaking approach resolutely embraces organic (the estate has been in conversion since 2020), biodynamics, and natural methods. The wines are made without added sulfites, fining, or filtration. The wines of Clos des B are a true reflection of their terroir and climate: fresh, fruity, and very pleasant to drink.
Moulin à Vent Rouge 2018, Frédéric Cossard
The Cossard version of this famous vintage, sometimes called "the king of Beaujolais," is a fairly rare bottle, with a bouquet of red fruits that's well-balanced between gourmandise and acidity. Both seductive and serious, beautifully structured, it ticks all the boxes of a great Beaujolais vintage. It can be drunk now, but it's even better to wait. You have to know how to let it age.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Goes with: Charcuterie, White Meats, Cheeses
The Cossard version of this famous vintage, sometimes called "the king of Beaujolais," is a fairly rare bottle, with a bouquet of red fruits that's well-balanced between gourmandise and acidity. Both seductive and serious, beautifully structured, it ticks all the boxes of a great Beaujolais vintage. It can be drunk now, but it's even better to wait. You have to know how to let it age.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Goes with: Charcuterie, White Meats, Cheeses
Fleurie Grand-Pré Red 2019,
Domaine Bélicard
Nestled in the heart of Beaujolais, the Fleurie AOP appellation is renowned for its elegant and floral wines. Domaine Bélicard, certified organic (AB), delivers a remarkably fine cuvée, produced from 36-year-old vines planted in granite soils.
A Fleurie of elegance and depth
Vinified using traditional whole-bunch maceration in old wooden vats, this wine benefits from gentle extraction, respecting all the delicacy of Gamay Noir. Its 4-day aging preserves the freshness and pure expression of the terroir.
A floral nose and a full palate
From the first nose, this organic Fleurie reveals deep aromas of candied red fruits, enhanced with floral and spicy notes. On the palate, the balance is perfect between roundness and finesse, with an elegant and persistent finish.
What to enjoy this wine with?
Ideal at 14-16°C, this wine goes wonderfully with grilled fish, salads and barbecues. Its 5-year aging potential will allow for a beautiful aromatic evolution.
Chiroubles Red 2020,
Beaujolais as devil, Chiroubles as madness, this 100% Beaujolais Gamay from the Chiroubles appellation expresses great freshness and red and black fruits. Supple, indulgent, round, and fruity, with lovely acidity and a good deal of pleasant drinkability, this beautiful wine is the result of the combined work of winemakers Damien Coquelet and Frédéric Cossard. This wine is the result of semi-carbonic maceration of whole bunches, and is aged for ten months in concrete eggs.
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Les En-Hauts is not strictly speaking a wine estate but a project of vintages produced in partnership between Damien Coquelet and Frédéric Cossard. These two great figures of Burgundy viticulture—yes, Beaujolais is in Burgundy—had every reason to join forces to produce colorful and flavorful vintages together.
Frédéric Cossard is a biodynamic and natural star of Burgundy winemaking, who gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. His vintages are pure and elegant without artifice and are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. His practice is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in other regions. His vines are tended according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper, and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity. Damien Coquelet, for his part, is the worthy successor of the great organic winemakers to whom we owe the advent of nature in the Beaujolais region: he is the son-in-law of Georges Descombes, and Jean Foillard was his mentor, who continued the pioneering work of Jules Chauvet and Marcel Lapierre. Owning nine hectares in Morgon on granite-sandy soils, he cultivates two and a half hectares plus a few leased vines: in all, four hectares on the legendary Côte du Py. A specialist in Morgons qui morgonnant and Chiroubles qui chiroublent, he embodies the true nature of Beaujolais.
Kuku Yodel White 2018
A dry white wine, Kuku Yodel reveals great finesse, freshness, and fruit on the nose. On the palate, the attack reminds some of an unfiltered white beer, others of a tropical lemonade. This wine is pleasant, fruity, floral, refreshing, and very fragrant. It evokes fruits such as peach, apricot, mandarin, lemon, lychee, passion fruit, and rhubarb, with a milky, yeasty finish, with the rich aroma of a summer meadow. It is made from Muscat of Alexandria, either as a single varietal or with a small proportion of Terret Bourret and Grenache Gris depending on the vintage. Kuku Yodel is a macerated white wine made from Muscat of Alexandria vines growing on the schist and clay-limestone soils of the high slopes of Hérault. The destemmed grapes macerate for forty-five days in vats, then the wine is aged for one year. Before bottling, it is neither filtered nor clarified, and no sulfites are added during the vinification process. Kuku Yodel should be drunk very chilled and can be kept for around ten years.
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Anthony Tortul loves old vineyards: he devotes his life to finding and vinifying them. Just as there are landless shepherds, he can be defined as a landless winemaker, in other words a wine merchant whose area of activity extends throughout Languedoc and, eastward, as far as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in search of the best terroirs. Born in Foix, with six years of experience as a wine technician and oenologist in various vineyards in the south of France, he created La Sorga in 2008. His enthusiasm leads him on a path filled with favorites, and each of these favorites is a vineyard. The result is a dizzying mosaic of natural, lively, and spirited wines, which reinvents itself each year with around thirty cuvées per vintage. Few winemakers can include such a variety of grape varieties: the entire south of France is represented, with muscats, grenaches, picpoul, mauzac, carignan, cinsault, marsanne, alicante, braucol, duras, viognier, len-de-l'el, and tutti quanti.
Crucella Red 2020,
La Vinicola di Antonio Gismondi
Crucella is known for its undergrowth, mineral, and earthy nose, a lively and acidic attack on the palate, red fruits, cherry on the retro-olfaction, and tannins less present than the deep color would suggest. Certainly a good wine for laying down that will blossom with time. The only red from the estate, it is a beautiful blend of Merlot (33%), Sangiovese (34%), and the ancient local grape variety Freisa (33%), which imparts a slight hint of musky red fruit, but the overall wine is well balanced. The harvest macerates for five or six days in stainless steel vats, then the wine is aged for seven to ten months in the same type of vat.
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Antonio Gismondi's azienda is located in Cerreto Sanita, in the Benevento region of Campania. A microclimate gives this area an almost continental feel: humid winds from the Tyrrhenian Sea collide with the first ramparts of the Apennine mountain range, causing condensation in the air and lowering temperatures, which are significantly cooler and more humid than on the coast. If we add a temperature inversion phenomenon between day and night, which is common in the Apennine climate, the freshness of the wines from the Antonio Gismondi estate is nothing mysterious in this southern Italy, which is nevertheless known for its very hot climate. The estate is family-run: for generations, the Gismondi family has cultivated vines and made wine using the most traditional and natural methods, to which biodynamic techniques are added. For a long time, of the fifteen tons of grapes produced each year, one ton was reserved for on-site winemaking for family consumption, with the rest going to the local wine cooperative. It was their meeting with Massimo Marchiori and Antonella of Partida Creus that led Antonio and his wife Anabel to start producing natural wines at home from the entire harvest. The two-hectare vineyard is located between 350 and 380 meters above sea level, on clay and stony soils, with two-thirds facing south. The grape varieties are Merlot, Freisa and Sangiovese for the reds, and Falanghina and Malvasia di Candia for the whites.x
Volnay Qvevris Red 2020,
The nose reveals beautiful notes of red fruits (strawberry), spices, and candied fruits. On the palate, it reveals warmth and power, with floral aromas and a great minerality on the finish. This warm, straightforward wine from the Volnay appellation, with notes of red and black fruits, is balanced and lively on the palate, with lovely, gently spicy notes. It comes from old Pinot Noir vines growing at the bottom of the slopes, on dense, stony soils of ferruginous red clay and limestone. The plots are steep, facing west-southeast and located between 230 and 280 meters above sea level. The vines are worked on horseback, respecting the soil and the earth. The harvest is manual and is carried out when the grapes are fully ripe. The grapes macerate in whole bunches. Aging in qvevri (buried Georgian-style terracotta jars) further develops the wine's velvety texture and depth.
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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for a while as a wine broker before creating the Domaine de Chassorney with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The exercise is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc regions. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular ploughing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Reds or whites, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.
Kikiriki Black Red 2018
Elegance, purity, and a crisp minerality due to the limestone characterize the productions of Clos Lentiscus. The note of controlled oxidation, when present, does not dominate the tasting, and the wines are never deviant. The cavas are renowned for their exuberance, but those from Clos Lentiscus never have more than two grams of residual sugar per liter. The estate also produces still wines, red, white, and rosé.
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This Cocorico (in Catalan) is a red made from a blend of Tempranillo and Cariñena (Carignan). Aromatic and light, it comes in a one-liter bottle and is not a luxury: this distinguished gurgle, at the table and as an aperitif, will go well with everything. A very good wine for tapas and al fresco dining.
It is in Sitges, Catalonia, in the heart of the Garraf Natural Park, that Manel Avinyo and his brother Joan took over the family estate, renamed Clos Lentiscus by Manel. Even though Barcelona is only a half-hour drive away, the beauty of the landscape is striking and the immersion in nature is total: Mediterranean forests rub shoulders with Catalan scrubland (thyme, rosemary, rockrose, mastic tree which gave its name to the estate, etc.). The Penedès region also has a long winemaking history. Nestled in its gentle hills is Clos Lentiscus, in the Penedés appellation, on twenty hectares of sandy and clay-limestone soils facing due south at an altitude of 225 meters. According to historical documents, the family of Manel and Joan Avinyo has been established there since at least the 14th century. For a long time, the grapes were sold to local cooperatives, but since the two brothers took over the estate, organic and biodynamic farming has replaced conventional practices, the entire harvest goes into the house vintages, and organic and biodynamic practices have allowed this beautiful property to reconnect with its former prestige: in the 19th century, its wines were sold in France and as far away as the Americas. Manel quickly earned a nickname: The Bubbleman, a tribute to his talent for making cavas, the sparkling white wines characteristic of the northeast of the Iberian Peninsula, from native varieties that only Catalonia has the secret to: sumoll, ull de llebre, xarel·lo, malvasia from Sitges, cartoixà vermell, cariñena (carignan), accompanied by tempranillo and muscat from Alexandria. The vines are old, sometimes centuries old. No synthetic additives are used in the vineyard, and operations such as planting, pruning, de-budding, and harvesting are dictated by the lunar phases. Pollination is facilitated by the presence of beehives; sheep contribute to fertilization and control of the plant cover. Ringo, the white horse, is responsible for working the soil.
Cade Meu Carnaval Sparkling Rosé 2019,
Chardonnay (50%), Grenache Gris (40%), and Trousseau (10%). But where has my carnival gone? asks this vintage, and it won't take long to find the answer: the party will begin as soon as the bottle is opened, because this undisgorged pet' nat' exudes good humor.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
All In Wine 2018
Es d'aqui Jean Louis Pinto
A blend of two vintages and five grape varieties, four reds and one white – Carignan, Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cabernet Franc, and Muscat. Each grape variety is vinified separately, aged in old barrels, and blended before bottling. A beautiful, elegant, and spirited red, with a lovely bouquet of light flowers and red and black berries.
A natural wine with no added sulfites.
Esprit Attila Red 2016
This blend is composed of 60% Syrah (from thirty-five-year-old vines), with the remainder consisting of Carignan, Grenache, Merlot, and Alicante Bouschet. The grapes macerate in whole bunches for ninety days in a near-infusion and are aged in concrete vats and amphorae for one year. Its aromas of violet and red fruits will pair well with red meats, especially lamb. Aging potential: twenty years.
Pairs with: Red Meats, Roasted Meats, Grilled Meats
