Still Wines

Bourgogne Bedeau Qvevris Rouge 2021

Fréderic Cossard
Aging in qvevris, a Georgian-style buried terracotta jar, further accentuates the velvety texture and refinement of this beautiful, highly refined Pinot Noir. The nose is fresh, natural, and free, evoking tangy red fruits (morello cherry, cherry, plum). The Cossard style is fully present in this wine. Bedeau is a beautiful, delicious and refined Pinot Noir, bursting with fresh, tangy, and satiny fruit, plus a touch of cheekiness to enhance the overall effect. Lively and voluminous, spicy on the palate, with velvety, well-integrated tannins. The harvest comes from plots of forty-year-old vines in and around Volnay, and from a plot of fifty-year-old vines in Nuits-Saint-Georges. All the soils are clay-limestone. The harvest macerates in whole bunches before aging in qvevri.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked as a wine broker for some time before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular ploughing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and coveted wines, which sometimes require waiting.

GT Garrut Red 2017

Partida Creus

With GT Garrut, a lovely and unusual single-varietal wine, the surprise knows no bounds and thirst is quickly quenched. The purplish color alone is a testament to its originality. It is made entirely from Garrut, a Catalan grape variety related to Mourvèdre, also called Monastrell. GT Garrut displays beautiful, earthy and intense qualities, with a strong black fruit character, particularly blackberry (blackberry or tree blackberry). Beautiful notes of red fruit as well, and a delicious acidity. This brilliant wine, perfect for the summer months, is harvested by hand. Fully destemmed, the grapes macerate for three days with a punch-down every three hours, and the alcoholic fermentation on indigenous yeasts takes place for four months in stainless steel vats, followed by twenty months in oak barrels. Unfiltered, unfined, no sulfites added. GT Garrut smells of family vines, artisanal, wine without limits.

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Partida Creus is an important estate, both in terms of wine and history – we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont – and even from the Langhe region, where they know a lot about wines – first pursued careers as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug tickles them, and soon they abandon the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they find a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties, which they passionately revive to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. For them, it's not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it's a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will never stop making from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to produce their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: Partida Creus is a veritable conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties. It also grows moscatel, grenache, merlot and cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with the winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-variety wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the vintage. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush yet always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, exude life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.

Magnum P'tit Poussot Blanc 2018,

Domaine de l'Octavin
Mineral and dry yet fruity, joyful and pleasant, this P'tit Poussot (En Poussot is the name of the plot) offers a nose of pear and opulent notes of apple, citrus, and pineapple on the palate, as well as plenty of freshness and acidity. Fresh and pleasant, perfect as an aperitif or with food. It is made from 100% Chardonnay, grown biodynamically on red marl soils and processed using direct pressing with vat fermentation. Bottled in September 2019, it is perfect for excellent charcuterie: even pata negra or Iberian chorizo. An excellent aperitif or table wine.

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“You don’t need anything,” says Alice Bouvot, winemaker at Domaine de l’Octavin, “just a grape that’s happy in its skin.” Everything is said in favor of natural wine; it’s a perfect description. Created in 2005, Domaine d’Alice is located in Arbois, in this wine-growing Jura region, often described as the most organic vineyard in France. The practice of making – among other things – oxidative wines is a good preparation for natural wine, this type of wine allowing no chemical additives and especially no sulfites. It’s a secret of this magnificent region. Originally spread over two hectares, the estate, managed entirely biodynamically (Demeter) since 2010, has expanded through the gradual acquisition of plots and now covers seven hectares.
An accomplished musician and passionate music lover, Alice intends to apply her musical sensitivity to the wines she makes. She draws a parallel between the technical perfection of conventional wines, which risks excluding feeling, while "a musician who does not know music theory and plays with his guts creates emotion." For her, living wine is like this: instinctive, improvised, emotional. Introduced to natural wine by Stéphane Planche, sommelier at chef Jean-Paul Jeunet in Arbois, she will faithfully follow this path. The sometimes whimsical titles of her vintages are inspired sometimes by musical art (Dorabella, Zerline), sometimes by the numerous plots of land that make up her vineyard (En Curon, Les Corvées, En Poussot, etc.), and do not disdain a pun from time to time. Likewise, the labels adorned with happy and salacious little gnomes are a signature of the estate. As for the grape varieties, they are the classics of the Jura - Poulsard, Trousseau, Pinot Noir for the reds, and Chardonnay, Savagnin for the whites. Alongside her Arbois wines, Alice has created a business of "on the vine" grapes (Ecocert certified) with her winegrower friends from the region. Natural, committed, joyful and highly drinkable, the wines of Alice Bouvot are all the more coveted as the vintages, produced in plot-by-plot mode, appear, disappear and reappear depending on the vintage and inspiration.

Bon Papa Blanc 2021,

Domaine Bois Moisset


The color is light gold, slightly cloudy. Bon Pâpâ is a white wine that offers a decided but light minerality and a nose, initially a little closed, with fermented and milky accents with a slight smoky touch and a hint of fresh hay. On the palate, the wine is round, ample, and fresh with a juicy, fleshy texture. The texture is savory and fruity: warm apple, nectarine, tangy pear, and a herbaceous, invigorating finish, with a fine acidity and a noble bitterness (apricot kernel). The wine is characterized by a delicious freshness. Plenty of crunch and very pronounced fruit. Some notes of lemony citrus, grapefruit, and a beautiful coexistence of roundness (without sweetness) and acidity. Produced in the Vin de France category, Bon Pâpâ is one of the rare whites from the Bois-Moisset estate. Its composition: 10% Muscadelle, 45% Sauvignon and 45% len-de-l’el (far from the eye). The vines are not treated with any synthetic chemicals, and the amendments are composted manure from the estate’s small cattle farm. Weeding is done mechanically, and sometimes even manually. The grapes are pressed immediately after harvest and blended into fresh juice. Fermentation takes place at 19°C, before malolactic fermentation. The wine was bottled with a minimal sulfite content of 1g per 100 liters.

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The name Gaillac, the region where the Bois-Moisset estate is located, owned by Sylvie Ledran and Philippe Maffre, has been associated with wines since Antiquity; It is the oldest vineyard in France, with two thousand years of history and an impressive collection of ancient indigenous grape varieties. It is also a region of dazzling beauty, nicknamed "French Tuscany" because of its gentle hills planted with groves and its almost Florentine brightness. Many estates, along with that of Bois-Moisset, showcase this uniquely rich wine-growing heritage. Along with an estate planted with vines, it is an organic mixed farm that directly sells its production of lentils, sunflower oil, cereal flours and grape juice. A herd of old local breed cows also thrives there and guest rooms are available in the summer. It is in this small rural paradise that natural wines typical of their origin and their terroir are born, on fifteen hectares of boulbènes, gravelly and sandy-loam soils carried by the Tarn for thousands of years. The grape varieties are dominated by Syrah and Duras, but the ampelographic richness of the Gaillac region (braucol, prunelart, loin-de-l'œil, etc.) is also evident in the vintages of the Bois-Moisset estate, which consist particularly of red wines with a crisp fruitiness, concentrated but with smooth and delicate tannins.

I Vicini Favorita Blanc 2020,

Jean-Yves Péron


Compared to the two previous vintages (2018 and 2019), this cuvée offers a much more pronounced tannic structure (without being too powerful or intrusive) and a semi-aromatic character. The fruit stands out more than in 2018 and 2019, which were produced from young vines. We therefore perceive saline notes, magnificent acidity, and fruit, fruit, and fruit. It is therefore the opulence of the grape variety that shines through, a result of choosing a different plot, planted with old vines and facing southeast. The skins of these grapes are much thicker, which influences the tannicity of the wine. We retain the characteristics of the grape variety: sapidity, a nice acidic base, tension, lots of perfume without excess exoticism.
In 2017, Jean-Yves Péron decided to expand his range by collecting organic grapes in the heart of the Italian Piedmont. This resulted in several vintages, including I Vicini Favorita, a white from a local variety so close to Vermentino (Rolle in France) that the two grape varieties are considered identical. We therefore have a sort of non-maritime Vermentino, with the signature of a more continental terroir and climate. The wine is the result of a two-week carbonic maceration, with a ten-day punch-down. The wine is aged in 300-liter barrels.

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Jean-Yves Péron embodies the natural renaissance of the beautiful Savoyard vineyard, which has long suffered from a somewhat flimsy image, not taken seriously enough. Yet, what treasures its varied soils and numerous ancient grape varieties produce!
Near Conflans, in Albertville (Savoie), Jean-Yves Péron skillfully combines committed viticulture and merchant winemaking, both under the banner of nature and high-altitude organic vines. Initially destined for a career in biochemistry, he quickly became drawn to the vine and trained as an oenologist in Bordeaux. He learned his trade as a winemaker with Thierry Allemand in Cornas, then with Bruno Schueller in Alsace, before spending some time in New Zealand and the United States. Jean-Yves's current vineyard, one and a half hectares of which have been biodynamic since the beginning, is divided between Conflans, near Albertville, and Fréterive, a little further down in the Isère Valley. Composed of micro-plots of vines, it is staggered between 350 m and 550 m above sea level and is worked entirely by hand. His trading activity, which he began in 2011, allows him to buy the harvest from organic winegrowers close to him (such as Raphaël Marin and Adrien Dacquin). Also, the construction of a new winery in 2017 allows him to increase production and collaborate with winegrowers from Northern Italy: Paolo Angelino in Casale Monferrato (Turin), Giorgio Barbero in Asti. This is a new dimension given to his work as a winemaker, allowing him to diversify the terroirs and deepen his experiences in winemaking and aging. Jean-Yves Péron's winemaking follows the principles of minimal intervention. On narrow and steep surfaces, his mountain vines receive no synthetic products, Jean-Yves preferring horsetail and nettle manure. The surrounding vegetation is very rich: it protects the vines and helps to strengthen them. The soils are grassed, mown and reworked with a pickaxe and winch. The harvest is entirely manual. Once vatted in whole bunches, the grapes, both red and white, undergo a semi-carbonic maceration which allows the extraction of fresh fruit aromas. This maceration time varies between five days and nine weeks depending on the vintage. The day before or two days before pressing, Jean-Yves performs foot-treading directly in the vat. After this fermentation, the musts are sent to barrels for aging on lees for twelve months in five hundred liter barrels of two or three wines (to limit the oaky sensation), followed by blending and resting in vats. No sulfites are added, or as little as possible, and the wines are not fined or filtered.

Les Barrieux Blanc 2020,

Jean-Yves Péron


Attention, new winemaking! Delicious, delicious, rich, full-bodied, powerful: this Barrieux vintage is different from previous ones. Until recently, it was harvested slightly overripe with long macerations, but in 2020, Jean-Yves Péron sought a more precise and classic maturity, to rediscover the delicious side of the wonderful Roussanne grape variety by eliminating the austerity of the tannins. The wine is therefore less tannic and less oxidative than before. Beyond these nuances, it remains Barrieux through and through, a generous macerated white wine with extraordinary notes of leather, smoke, and candied quince, followed by a complex floral and citrus bouquet and a long, aromatic finish. A rare and exceptional cuvée, this is a wine without equal, made entirely from Roussanne for this vintage. The vines grow on schist soil and are harvested by hand. This is followed by two weeks of carbonic maceration. Aging is one year in small 12-hectoliter tuns. Les Barrieux has not undergone any filtration, fining, or the addition of sulfites. It is a gourmet all-terrain wine that stands the test of time.

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Jean-Yves Péron embodies the natural renaissance of the beautiful Savoyard vineyard, which has long suffered from a somewhat flimsy image, not taken seriously enough. Yet, what treasures are produced by its varied soils and its many ancient grape varieties! Near Conflans, in Albertville (Savoie), Jean-Yves Péron skillfully combines committed viticulture and merchant winemaking, both under the banner of nature and high-altitude organic vines. Initially destined for a career in biochemistry, he quickly became drawn to the vine and trained as an oenologist in Bordeaux. He learned his trade as a winemaker with Thierry Allemand in Cornas, then with Bruno Schueller in Alsace, before spending some time in New Zealand and the United States. Jean-Yves' current vineyard, one and a half hectares of biodynamic farming from the start, is divided between Conflans, near Albertville, and Fréterive, a little further downstream in the Isère valley. Composed of micro-plots of vines, it is spread out between 350 m and 550 m above sea level and is entirely worked by hand. His trading activity, which began in 2011, allows him to buy the harvest from organic winegrowers close to his home (such as Raphaël Marin and Adrien Dacquin). Also, the construction of a new winery in 2017 allows him to increase production and collaborate with winegrowers from Northern Italy: Paolo Angelino in Casale Monferrato (Turin), Giorgio Barbero in Asti. This is a new dimension given to his work as a winemaker, allowing him to diversify the terroirs and deepen his experiences in winemaking and aging.
Jean-Yves Péron's winemaking follows the principles of minimal intervention. On narrow and steep surfaces, his mountain vines receive no synthetic products, Jean-Yves preferring horsetail and nettle manure. The surrounding vegetation is very rich: it protects the vines and helps to strengthen them. The soils are grassed, mown and reworked with a pickaxe and winch. The harvest is entirely manual. Once vatted in whole bunches, the grapes, both red and white, undergo a semi-carbonic maceration which allows the extraction of fresh fruit aromas. This maceration time varies between five days and nine weeks depending on the vintage. The day before or two days before pressing, Jean-Yves performs foot-treading directly in the vat. After this fermentation, the musts are sent to barrels for aging on lees for twelve months in five hundred liter barrels of two or three wines (to limit the woody sensation), followed by blending and resting in vats. No sulfites are added, or as little as possible, and the wines are not fined or filtered.

I Vicini Barbera Rouge 2020,

Jean-Yves Péron


This I Vicini Barbera is a great wine in every sense of the word. Long, very fruity, generous, deep, with superb acidity resulting from a moderately ripe harvest, it is both serious and joyful, wonderfully intense and concentrated. Finesse, minerality, tension, and a beautiful, intense and colorful red color: a superb example of what the Barbera grape variety can achieve, especially at altitude, as is the case here. Its 13.5% alcohol testifies to the desire not to exaggerate its richness and power: the average Barbera today is closer to 15%. The second most widely used red grape variety in Italy after Sangiovese, Barbera produces full-bodied, colorful wines with notes of red fruits. In 2017, Jean-Yves Péron decided to expand his range by sourcing organic grapes in the heart of Piedmont, Italy, in collaboration with his winemaker friends Paolo Angelino in Casale Monferrato and Giorgio Barbero in Asti. The result has been several vintages, including this 100% Barbera red, made from Paolo's grapes. The vines, around forty years old, grow on gray and white marl soils cultivated biodynamically. These are old, low-yielding vines, harvested by hand when slightly underripe to counterbalance the richness of the grape variety. Skin maceration, in pure carbonic mode without punching down, takes place over four weeks, using indigenous yeasts. I Vicini Barbera then ages for at least a year in 900-liter sandstone amphorae, which reinforces the wine's tension and minerality. No filtration, fining, or addition of sulfites.

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Jean-Yves Péron embodies the natural renaissance of the beautiful Savoyard vineyard, which has long suffered from a somewhat flimsy image, not taken seriously enough. Yet, what treasures its varied soils and numerous ancient grape varieties produce!
Near Conflans, in Albertville (Savoie), Jean-Yves Péron skillfully combines committed viticulture and merchant winemaking, both under the banner of nature and high-altitude organic vines. Initially destined for a career in biochemistry, he quickly became drawn to the vine and trained as an oenologist in Bordeaux. He learned his trade as a winemaker with Thierry Allemand in Cornas, then with Bruno Schueller in Alsace, before spending some time in New Zealand and the United States. Jean-Yves' current vineyard, one and a half hectares biodynamic since the beginning, is divided between Conflans, near Albertville, and Fréterive, a little further down in the Isère Valley. Made up of micro-plots of vines, it is staggered between 350 m and 550 m above sea level and is worked entirely by hand. His trading activity, which he began in 2011, allows him to buy the harvest from organic winemakers close to his home (such as Raphaël Marin and Adrien Dacquin). Also, the construction of a new winery in 2017 allows him to increase production and collaborate with winemakers from Northern Italy: Paolo Angelino in Casale Monferrato (Turin), Giorgio Barbero in Asti. This is a new dimension given to his work as a winemaker, allowing him to diversify the terroirs and deepen his experiences in winemaking and aging. Jean-Yves Péron's winemaking follows the principles of minimal intervention. On narrow and steep surfaces, his mountain vines receive no synthetic products, Jean-Yves preferring horsetail and nettle manure. The surrounding vegetation is very rich: it protects the vines and helps to strengthen them. The soils are grassed, mown and reworked with a pickaxe and winch. The harvest is entirely manual. Once vatted in whole bunches, the grapes, both red and white, undergo a semi-carbonic maceration which allows the extraction of fresh fruit aromas. This maceration time varies between five days and nine weeks depending on the vintage. The day before or two days before pressing, Jean-Yves performs foot-treading directly in the vat. After this fermentation, the musts are sent to barrels for aging on lees for twelve months in five hundred liter barrels of two or three wines (to limit the oaky sensation), followed by blending and resting in vats. No sulfites are added, or as little as possible, and the wines are not fined or filtered.

XL Blanco Blanc 2018,

Partida Creus


This beautiful XL Blanco is a classic white from Partida Creus. It offers a pure and typical expression of the native Catalan grape variety xarel lo and is a good introduction to this winery with its many vintages, as it is so representative of their style. It is a smoky, explosive, lively, and mineral white that is also characterized by very great drinkability and conviviality combined with uncommon depth and persistence. Pair XL Blanco with seafood, fish, white meats, roasted or grilled poultry.

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Partida Creus is an important estate, both wine-wise and historically – we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont—and even from the Langhe region, where wine is well-versed—first pursued careers as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug tickled them, and they soon abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they found a number of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties, which they passionately revived to save these varieties—and their wines—from oblivion. For them, it's not just a matter of saving their heritage, no: it's a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will never stop making from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to produce their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic, entirely manual and natural viticulture in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, ceciat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: it is a true conservatory of the native Catalan grape varieties that Partida Creus cares for. There is also Moscatel, Grenache, Merlot and Cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast of growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single varietals are common among them, alongside very rich blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that indicate the cuvée. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush but always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, breathe life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.

Magnum Munjebel White 2020,

Frank Cornelissen

The white version of the Munjebel cuvée combines beautiful concentration, freshness, and oriental aromas: orange blossom, jasmine, and dried apricot. Produced on mid-altitude plots from equal parts Grecanico Dorato and Carricante, in the Calderara, Borriglione, Crasà, and Picciolo plots, this white wine is extremely mature. The vines are over forty years old; the grapes are destemmed, lightly crushed, and macerated for about four days. No fining, no sulfiting, and lightly filtered before bottling. This wine will pair with an almost infinite variety of dishes, meat and fish, oysters and shellfish, and all Asian cuisines.

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A great must-have and universally respected figure in natural wine, Frank Cornelissen is a classic. This man of constant questioning lives in human and cosmic resonance with his contrasting terroir: he has demonstrated that the powerful minerality of a great volcanic soil can be highlighted by the naturalness of his wines. The brilliance, the directness and the exquisite fruitiness of his vintages earn him the admiration even of those reluctant to go "natural". They are good initiation wines.

His Sicilian azienda is located in Passopisciaro, in the northern Etna valley. It is, he says, the "Night Coast" of Etna for the great diversity of its wines spread over many locations (contrade) at different altitudes. The climate is continental and harsh, even snowy, in winter, but very warm and sunny from June to September. The altitude gives the wines tension and elegance. The vines coexist with a Mediterranean polyculture: olive trees, almond trees, vegetable gardens... (Frank also produces olive oil). The age of the vines ranges from forty years to over one hundred years. The plots, nineteen in number, on twenty-four hectares in total, are all at altitude, between 600 and 900 meters, on several volcanic flows. They are all vinified separately: Frank decides on the blend based on the quality of the wines from each plot. In general, seven or eight vintages are made in addition to the generic wines (rosé, basic red and white). The soils are made up of different types of basalt, between powder and rock, with perfect drainage that allows for the production of concentrated and fine wines.

Nerello Mascalese dominates the estate's grape varieties. This great traditional red grape variety from the northern valley of Etna is the only grape variety used in the great vintages. Its growing cycle is long, which allows the vine to work the soil and capture its minerality in the fruit. Other grape varieties include: Nerello Capuccio, Minella Bianco, Minella Nera, Alicante Bouschet, Malvasia, Cattaratto, Moscadella, Grecanico Dorato, Carricante…

Le Blanc des Garennes White 2020,

Fond Cyprès

A beautiful texture, with notes of citrus and exotic fruits. Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Viognier grown on the same plot: a southern blend that produces a truly southern white wine, original, balanced, fresh, structured by light maceration, fermented and aged in barrels. Its profile is atypical in Corbières. A distinctive feature: the plot was planted according to the desired wine, and chosen to face north to ensure good acidity. The three grape varieties are harvested at different ripeness levels. As soon as the Viognier (later ripening) is ripe, everything is harvested together: the Grenache Blanc is often overripe. This produces a very unique flavor balance, between freshness, richness, and roundness. After direct pressing, the must is vinified in old 225-liter barrels, then aged for ten months. It can be kept for around ten years, if given time: all pairings suit it.

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This Languedoc estate is built on solid foundations: its two winemakers, Rodolphe and Laetitia, are also descendants of winemakers. Even before planting their first vine, they already had a clear objective: "to produce southern wines that reflect us, wines with character attached to our soils, with freshness and refined tannins." They want to obtain entirely natural wines, concentrates of terroir. In the old Corbières massif, they are taking over an old heart of the estate already planted with abandoned Carignan and Grenache, which have seen neither fertilizer nor pesticides for years: these clean and living soils are an ideal condition for launching into natural wine. Around this historic heart, they first planted Grenache Noir and Syrah, then a plot of white grape varieties: Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne. The estate has been Ecocert certified since 2010 and also complies with the Nature & Progrès charter. The vinification is done without the addition of sulfites or exogenous yeasts. "We make wines for pleasure," say Laetitia and Rodolphe. For them, natural wine is first assessed by taste, from the harvest. The vintages closely follow the plots, the musts are fruity, fluid, and complex. The wines of Fond Cyprès poetically evoke the estate's ecosystem and the vegetation that protects the plots: the pine forests, the shady springs, the beauty of the natural environment that brings freshness to the wines and leaves the soil's signature. Deliciously balanced between mineral imprint, vegetal environment and expression of fruit, the wines of Fond Cyprès reflect the South: the caress of its sun, but also the freshness of its shadows.

Le Carignan de la Source Rouge 2020,

Fond Cyprès
Languedoc to the tips of its nails, delicate, dense, and fresh, fruity and generous, all freshness and delicacy: a beautiful, lively and spicy bottle, with lovely notes of leather and undergrowth, and well-integrated tannins that don't attack the palate. Coming from a sixty-year-old limestone-marl Carignan plot, this wine, after hand-harvesting and destemming, is fermented for four weeks in concrete vats. The wine is then aged for twelve months in old demi-muids (barrels of 500 to 650 liters) which have the quality of not oaking the wine but ensuring a comfortable, gentle aging. With its ripe and evolved tannins, it offers great aging potential, but we can already start drinking it. A lively bottle, to be paired with everything that the western Mediterranean coast (Languedoc, Roussillon, Catalonia, Valencia region, etc.) has to offer. We obviously don't forget the region east of the Rhône: Provençal, Italian, Greek cuisines, etc. Keep for around ten years.

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This Languedoc estate is built on solid foundations: its two winemakers, Rodolphe and Laetitia, are also descendants of winemakers. Even before planting their first vine, they already had a clear objective: "to produce southern wines that reflect us, wines with character, attached to our soils, with freshness and refined tannins." They wanted to obtain entirely natural wines, concentrates of terroir. In the old Corbières massif, they took over an old heart of the estate already planted with abandoned Carignan and Grenache, which had not seen any fertilizer or pesticides for years: these clean and living soils were an ideal condition for launching into natural wine. Around this historic heart, they first planted Grenache Noir and Syrah, then a plot of white grape varieties: Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne. The estate has been Ecocert certified since 2010 and also complies with the Nature & Progrès charter. The vinification is done without the addition of sulfites or exogenous yeasts. "We make wines for pleasure," say Laetitia and Rodolphe. For them, natural wine is first assessed by taste, from the harvest. The vintages closely follow the plots, the musts are fruity, fluid, and complex. The wines of Fond Cyprès poetically evoke the estate's ecosystem and the vegetation that protects the plots: the pine forests, the shady springs, the beauty of the natural environment that brings freshness to the wines and leaves the signature of the soil. Deliciously balanced between mineral imprint, plant environment, and fruit expression, the wines of Fond Cyprès reflect the South of France: the caress of its sun, but also the freshness of its shadows.

Muscana Blanc 2020,

Domaine Einhart
Beautiful orange color with amber highlights, the initial nose displays typical aromas of overripe, slightly smoky Muscat berries. The second, very refined nose is accompanied by a hint of citrus, inviting further tasting. The attack, straightforward and very full, is marked by acidity blended into beautiful aromas of candied quince. The finish is invigorating, still with the melted tannins produced by maceration. Muscana, as its name suggests, is a Vin de France made from 100% Muscat grapes grown on the estate on oolitic limestone terroirs of the Muschelkalk type (plots located in Fleckenstein, Westerberg, and Meyen). The average age of the vines is 25 years. The harvest is manual and the grapes are destemmed. Maceration lasts four to six days with indigenous yeasts and aging takes place in stainless steel vats on fine lees, without filtration.

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Located in the northern part of the Alsatian vineyard, horizontally above Strasbourg, the Einhart estate is a ten-hectare family property whose vines are located on the hillsides that rise between the Alsace plain and the Vosges mountains. The soil is clay-limestone and rich in fossils (muschelkalk, i.e. shell limestone and oolitic limestone, and lettenkohle or dolomitic limestone). Since 1990, Nicolas Einhart has been at the helm, now assisted by his son Théo. True to his commitments to the TIFLO association, of which he is a co-founder, Nicolas devotes his winemaking to protecting the land and biodiversity, making wine without additives, refusing harmful phytosanitary products, and maintaining ecological refuge areas. His estate has been certified organic since 2011. Like Jean-Marc Dreyer, he is firmly focused on skin maceration and produces white maceration wines (orange wines) in addition to a Pinot Noir red. Entirely manual harvests, destemming of the grapes, light punching down, and delicate pressing are characteristic of the estate, as well as the separate vinification of each terroir, aging on lees, and the absence of filtration before bottling. The wines are made from pure grapes, lively, powerful, invigorating, and reflect the minerality of the beautiful terroirs of the Vosges foothills.

SéRuM Rouge 2019,

Aurélien Lefort
Ready for the most advanced experiments, Aurélien Lefort has produced a small quantity of a sweet Gamay red (100% Auvergne Gamay) using a late harvest. The vines are over a hundred years old, planted in 1904 on red clay soils rich in quartz and granite sand (Lamouret location). The harvest takes place in November, with an alcohol content between 18 and 21%. Vinification is traditional: destemming, three months of maceration in vats, and three years of aging in barrels. Bottling was carried out at the end of October 2021.

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Established since 2011 in Madriat, near Boudes, in the southern part of Puy-de-Dôme, Aurélien Lefort is an artist (graduate of Fine Arts) passionate about wine and nature. After training with Michel Auger (Loire) and Patrick Bouju, he decided on Auvergne and took over the lease of abandoned vineyards. The Boudes region is an ancient wine-growing region, an exceptional volcanic terroir, warm and vibrant, exploited for nearly two thousand years. Aurélien's approach is to encourage the rebirth of this magnificent vineyard. He does so on small areas of stunning pedological diversity: basalt, granite, calcareous red clay, sandy and gravelly clay on quartz flows, and, at the foot of the hill, white marl clay. On this substrate, the Auvergne trilogy (gamay, pinot noir and chardonnay) takes my lion's share. In Aurélien's hands, the singular talent of Auvergne gamay, an ancient grape variety as dense and powerful as it is spicy, which finds a particular expression on these volcanic soils. His plots are grassed but mowed to control humidity, and the vine stocks are worked with a pickaxe to avoid suffocating the root system. The harvest, always manual, can last up to three weeks due to the meticulous sorting of the berries. It is at this price that Aurélien Lefort creates his rare and sought-after vintages, resulting from macerations that tend to be long (up to three months). Mostly red, sometimes sparkling, sometimes also mellow (late harvest reds), they always leave a lasting, even unforgettable, sensation.

Les Orgues Rouge 2017,

Frédéric Gounan
Fruit, minerality, and straightforwardness: the volcanic and mineral expression of Pinot Noir, unique to Auvergne, is incomparable. Les Orgues is a pure Auvergne Pinot Noir produced biodynamically on clay-limestone soils rich in granite and basalt. The harvest is crushed and vinified in whole bunches. Aging in barrels is thirty months.

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Born in a farming family established in the commune of Saint-Sandoux (Puy-de-Dôme) for at least two centuries, Frédéric Gounan was first a mechanic and prototype designer for the French motorcycle brand Voxan, headquartered in Issoire. He turned away from the industrial world to devote himself to wine with his partner Caroline. He intends to take advantage of the magnificent terroirs of his native village, far from "pissing the vines", as was done in the past: he notes that everything that comes from this land has exceptional taste qualities. He takes over plots of Gamay d'Auvergne, plants other grape varieties, and ends up producing vintages that are among the tastiest and most sought-after in Auvergne. On this land of the Chaîne des Puys, Pinot Noirs grow on black basalt soils, Sauvignons and Pinot Gris rest on white clay-limestone soils pebbled with basalt. A follower of organic and biodynamic agriculture, Frédéric also applies methods that he considers appropriate to the climate and the terroir: to facilitate photosynthesis in this harsh and contrasting climate, he practices lyre trellising which allows the foliage of the vines to be aerated and exposed to the sun, guaranteeing ripe fruit at harvest. Always a mechanic at heart, he makes his tools and tinkers with his tractors according to his needs. His wines are rare and distinguished, highly sought after by connoisseurs: small estate (less than two hectares), small production (by volume, not by spirit).

Le Rocher rouge 2018,

Nicolas Chemarin

This infinitely silky and luscious red, mineral and very straightforward, is a Beaujolais-Villages that is ideally enjoyed between 14 and 16°C. It is made from Beaujolais Gamay grapes grown in the Combe Fleurette area, at an altitude of 550 meters and on an average 40% slope, facing south, on a plot of blue granite with very shallow soil. The vines, twenty-five years old, rest on a rocky outcrop. The harvest is aged in whole bunches for forty days with regular turning. After pressing, the young wine is aged on fine lees in Burgundy oak barrels. Bottling is done in the waning moon, without fining or filtration.

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Nicolas Chemarin, nicknamed "P'tit Grobis" as a resident of Marchampt (Beaujolais), is the fourth generation of winemaker on his family wine estate in the Beaujolais-Villages appellation, on stony land where he crafts wines of surprising depth and sincerity. In 2005, he took over two hectares of his father's vines and in 2006 he produced his first vintages. In 2008, he acquired other vines and decided to devote himself solely to his estate, whose very steep terroir consists of poor, rocky soils on gray granite rock. The vines rest on the bedrock through very thin soil, and their roots plunge deep into the rock. Depending on the configuration of the soil, the vines are pruned in goblet or raised on stakes. Their average age is eighty years. The grape varieties, Gamay and Chardonnay, are classically Beaujolais. Nicolas also cultivates two other terroirs in the Régnié appellation: Les Bullats, with light, filtering sandy soils, and La Haute Ronze, very close to Morgon, whose deeper, clayey soils produce full-bodied wines. The vintages undergo long macerations (from 18 to 30 days) with punching down and temperature control (Nicolas works cold, around 20°C). The aging is done partially in thermoregulated concrete vats for a third, the remaining two thirds passing into barrels of four to ten wines in order to provide oxygenation but little or no woody sensation. Nicolas Chemarin is already very well known in the natural world for his sweet and fruity vintages, wines of pleasure, and for vintages from difficult and magnificent terroirs, provided with admirable and complex mineral, aromatic and spicy notes.

Cerreto Blanc 2020, La Vinicola di Antonio Gismondi
Cerreto is a lively and fresh wine with a pale yellow color and an acidic, lemony nose with hints of white flowers. The nose is fruity (lemon zest), as is the palate: the citrus fruits linger, the minerality asserts itself. A good companion for seafood, shellfish, and raw fish. Cerreto is made from Malvasia di Candia vines, a grape variety also known as Uva di Cerreto. This name specifically covers a very old local grape variety that is even said to be indigenous and is actually a clone of Malvasia di Candia. The vines grow on clayey plots facing southwest. Skin maceration lasts four to five days in stainless steel vats, followed by pressing and aging for six to ten months in stainless steel vats. No added sulfites, no filtration.

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Antonio Gismondi's azienda is located in Cerreto Sanita, in the Benevento region of Campania. A microclimate gives this area an almost continental feel: humid winds from the Tyrrhenian Sea collide with the first ramparts of the Apennine mountain range, causing condensation in the air and lowering temperatures, which are significantly cooler and more humid than on the coast. If we add a thermal inversion phenomenon between day and night, common in the Apennine climate, the freshness of the wines from the Antonio Gismondi estate is nothing mysterious in this southern Italy, which is known for its very hot climate. The estate is family-run: for generations, the Gismondi family has cultivated vines and made wine using the most traditional and natural methods, to which are added biodynamic techniques. For a long time, of the fifteen tons of grapes produced each year, one ton was reserved for on-site winemaking for family consumption, with the rest going to the local wine cooperative. It was a meeting with Massimo Marchiori and Antonella de Partida Creus that led Antonio and his wife Anabel to start producing natural wines at home from the entire harvest. The two-hectare vineyard is located between 350 and 380 meters above sea level, on clay and stony soils, with two-thirds facing due south. The grape varieties are Merlot, Freisa, and Sangiovese for the reds, and Falanghina and Malvasia di Candia for the whites.

Tannat Rouge 2020,

Domaine Capmartin
Tannat, as its name suggests, is made entirely from the emblematic grape variety of the Madiran appellation. With no additives or sulfites, it is the natural counterpart to the estate's fine Madirans. The Tannats from which it is made, with an average age of fifteen years and harvested when fully ripe, grow on clay-gravel soils on north-facing plots. The use of cover crops helps loosen the soil and provides nutritional support, alternating with natural grass cover. The harvest is destemmed. Maceration is entirely semicarbonic, followed by pressing in the first third of fermentation. Alcoholic fermentation ends in the liquid phase. Aging is six months in stainless steel vats. This Tannat is already a classic. Simon Capmartin's goal was to create a pure fruit cuvée, to capture the intensity of the grape variety: it is Tannat, picked and bottled. "As little extraction as possible is used; we try to capture the fruit." The profile is quite fresh, but the wine remains quite fleshy and even easy to drink. It is a wine of character, for the table, for eating. A gastronomic wine.

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Guy Capmartin settled in 1985 in the former convent of Maumusson-Laguian, in the Gers, to exploit the magnificent surrounding soils, from which he would soon produce highly acclaimed wines in the Madiran and Pacherenc-du-Vic-Bilh appellations. In 1987, Tradition, his first cuvée, was born. Since the 2000s, he has decided to work exclusively in organic and biodynamic agriculture, a decision reinforced and rooted by his son Simon, who took over. The wines have been noted and have received numerous awards. Certification was obtained in 2013, and the Demeter label is in progress. Taking advantage of his most specific plots of the estate, Simon also undertakes to produce natural cuvées, without inputs and according to the principle of minimal interventionism. Labeled Vin de France or Côtes-de-Gascogne, these are the cuvées that we offer you at Culinaries.
The estate's grape varieties are organized around Tannat, the king of Madiran, surrounded by a palette as rich and diverse as the estate's soils: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, a little Syrah and Grenache Noir, plus a few old red vines currently being identified. A plot of tannat, located on a very fine and very supple clay-marl soil with gravel, is pre-phylloxera. For the white, Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu, as well as, for the Côtes-de-Gascogne, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Viognier.
The main objective of the Capmartin estate is to make frank, fruity, authentic and honest wines, perfectly reflecting their terroir, which explains the parcel-based nature of the wines under the appellation: one parcel corresponds to one vintage, and vice versa. This also explains the number and variety of vintages.

i Vicini Barbera Rouge 2019,

Jean-Yves Peron
He began by studying biochemistry, but Jean-Yves quickly became drawn to the vineyard and trained as an oenologist in Bordeaux. He learned his trade as a winemaker with Thierry Allemand in Cornas, then with Bruno Schueller in Alsace, before spending some time in New Zealand and the United States. His trading activity, which he began in 2011, allows him to buy the harvest from organic winegrowers near his home, but also in Northern Italy: for him, it gives a new dimension to his work as a winemaker, allowing him to multiply the terroirs and to deepen his experiences in winemaking and aging.
Near Lake Annecy, Jean-Yves Péron skillfully combines committed viticulture and merchant winemaking, both under the sign of nature. His Mondeuse reds are magnificent, his whites from old local grape varieties – Jacquère, Altesse, Bergeron, Persan – are no less so. He lives in Chevaline, but his current vineyard, three hectares biodynamic since the beginning, is divided between Conflans, near Albertville, and Fréterive, a little downstream in the Isère Valley.
Jean-Yves Péron's winemaking follows the principles of minimal intervention. On narrow and steep surfaces, his mountain vines receive no synthetic products, Jean-Yves preferring horsetail and nettle manure. The surrounding vegetation is very rich: it protects the vines and helps to strengthen them. The soils are grassed, mown and reworked with a pickaxe and winch. The harvest is entirely manual. Once vatted in whole bunches, the grapes, both red and white, undergo a semi-carbonic maceration which allows the extraction of fresh fruit aromas. This maceration time varies between five days and nine weeks depending on the vintage. The day before or two days before pressing, Jean-Yves performs foot-treading directly in the vat. After this fermentation, the musts are sent to barrels for aging on lees for twelve months in five hundred liter barrels of two or three wines (to limit the woody sensation), followed by blending and resting in vats. No sulfites are added, or as little as possible, and the wines are not fined or filtered. Savoyard wine has long suffered from a somewhat flimsy image, not taken seriously enough. Yet, what treasures its varied soils and numerous ancient grape varieties produce! Jean-Yves Péron embodies the rebirth of this beautiful vineyard. In 2017, Jean-Yves Péron decided to expand his range by harvesting organic grapes in the heart of the Italian Piedmont. This resulted in several vintages, including this 100% Barbera red. The second most widely used red grape variety in Italy after Sangiovese, Barbera produces full-bodied, colorful wines with notes of red fruits. This is the case with this one, fresh and fruity, a little lighter than the average Barbera with a delicious carbonic acidity. Its style is closer to that of Champ Levat. Long, generous, a great wine to savor.