France

Skin-Contact Rafling White 2021

Fréderic Cossard

Classified as a Vin de France, Skin Contact Rafling is a wine resulting from a fairly extensive skin maceration: hence the presence of "Skin Contact" on the label. "Rafling" is a play on words relating to the maceration on stems (whole bunches) and the name of the Riesling grape variety. It is a dense and robust wine that is both round and straightforward, elegant and full of personality. Our national Frédéric Cossard, as comfortable with Burgundian-style winemaking (but without additives) as with the multi-colored refinements of merchant winemaking, offers us here a Riesling from twenty-five-year-old biodynamic vines harvested in Alsace on clay-limestone soil. Maceration is three weeks in whole bunches. Don't worry too much about food and wine pairings, this one is made for all occasions and can even compete with dishes that we usually think are reserved for red wine. Its aging potential—at least ten years—is generous.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undistorted by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful wine-growing practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice which are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for a time as a wine broker before creating the domaine de Chassorney with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine merchant house and purchased organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais vintages. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular plowing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less “regional” bottles, Frédéric’s vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Savigny les Beaune Blanc Vermots Blanc 2021

Fréderic Cossard
The Savigny-lès-Beaune terroir has accustomed us to great white wines: here is one from the Vermots climate, a locality located in the north of the appellation, on the edge of the village. Fresh, refined, and taut, it is a very mineral wine with a lovely hint of richness, floral and lemony, but also brioche-like with a hint of richness. A clean and frank wine, slightly spicy and quite full-bodied, which you can pair with any dish you desire, from the most everyday to the most exceptional, but it has a special affinity with fish and seafood. It also goes well with traditional starters such as scallops à la Normande, vol-au-vent, or bouchee à la reine. The Chardonnays from the clay-limestone soil from which it is made are directly pressed and the must is fermented by indigenous yeasts. No chemical additives are used in the vineyard or in the cellar, and no sulfites are added.

To find out more
Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked as a wine broker for some time before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular ploughing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and coveted wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Folatières Blanc 2021

Fréderic Cossard
Deep and dense, slightly smoky, with an airy grace, complex yet joyful, Les Folatières is a fine example of Chardonnay at its zenith. This Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru is distinguished, complex, powerful, and precise. It comes from one of the most famous vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet, located in the hills of the appellation. This clay-limestone parcel of Les Folatières takes its name from the follets or goblins who, it was said, would dance in these places shrouded in morning mists. It is planted with very old vines on clay-limestone soil that gives pride of place to clay, which enhances the wine's minerality. The age of the vines is also felt in the depth and structure of the wine, and likewise, it benefits from superb aging qualities.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful wine-growing practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked as a wine broker for some time before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular ploughing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and coveted wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Chambolle Musigny Les Herbues Rouge 2021

Fréderic Cossard
Exquisitely refined and elegant, yet also dense and straightforward, this Chambolle-Musigny "Les Herbues" opens with a beautiful garnet color. It is a complex and delicate red wine with aromas of raspberry, candied strawberry, and violet, with a hint of undergrowth, licorice, and cocoa. A floral finish reminiscent of red rose. Supple and deep, with very fine tannins, this is an all-Pinot Noir from the Chambolle-Musigny Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée. The plot called Les Herbues is located between 250 and 300 meters above sea level. The clayey terroir, facing east, rests on hard, fissured limestone formations that allow the roots to plunge into the subsoil. The grapes macerate in whole bunches. Aging is approximately one year in barrels. This clear and silky wine will be enjoyed with a gourmet meal as well as with regional dishes.

To find out more
Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked as a wine broker for some time before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular ploughing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and coveted wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Savigny les Beaune les Gollardes Rouge 2021

Domaine de Chassorney
This supple and fruity Pinot Noir, graced with delicious notes of licorice, offers beautiful concentration, great finesse, and freshness. Full-bodied and generous, with a savory, slightly smoky finish. Full of finesse and red fruit, this Burgundy from the Les Gollardes climate (on the northern part of the Savigny-les-Beaune valley, gravelly soil, southern exposure) will benefit from a few years in the cellar to express its full potential. Its aging potential is around ten years.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undistorted by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful wine-growing practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice which are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for a time as a wine broker before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine merchant company and purchased organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais vintages. The practice is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura, Languedoc and elsewhere. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular plowing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Magnum Gauthier Blanc 2021

Jean-Marc Dreyer
Here's a rarity, a curiosity, a challenge, and a precious bottle. If you're already familiar with Jean-Marc Dreyer's Origin range, a series of maceration cuvées based on the six Alsatian white grape varieties—Sylvaner, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, and Muscat—you'll find this one, in a way, the synthesis and summary of that range. For good reason: it's the result of blending the fin de cuvée of each Origin reference after bottling. But why Gauthier? It's the first name of a pilgrim on the road to Santiago de Compostela who spent some time with Jean-Marc Dreyer and took part in the work in the cellar. After noting that this blend of fine vintages was excellent to drink, he suggested that Jean-Marc bottle it and make it into a special vintage. "It tastes so good, it would be a shame not to!" It tastes incredibly good, in fact, notes the winemaker. So this vintage is naturally named in honor of Gauthier. Before bottling, Gauthier is kept for two to three months in barrels to marry the flavors and give unity to the wine. This unusual decision has produced a vintage in its own right, delicious, full of fullness and character, with a distinct touch of controlled oxidation. Gauthier is always packaged in magnums and, of course, contains no more sulfites or additives than the vintages from which it is composed. That is to say, zero.

To find out more
“Maceration is a tradition in Alsace!” says Jean-Marc Dreyer, adding that direct pressing in this region is a modern invention, linked to the advent of electricity. In the past, people worked by hand and let the grapes macerate before sending the marc to the press.” Whole-bunch maceration is Jean-Marc Dreyer’s signature and represents 85% of the estate’s production, the rest consisting of direct-pressed whites, often aged using controlled oxidation. Jean-Marc succeeds several generations of his family at the Dreyer & Fils estate, established in 1830 between Obernai and Molsheim. Upon taking over the estate, he immediately opted for biodynamics, but hesitated for a while between several methods: at first, his wines were more oaky, aged in new barrels with stirring. Then, a sweet period: all his wines contain residual sugar. In 2008, he tried vinifying without any sulfur and found his direction: the following winter, upon returning from the pilgrimage to Compostela, he swore never to add sulfur to any wine again. Having made this decision, he affirmed his style around skin maceration, quite extensive, chiseled, always surprising on Alsatian grape varieties, bringing out their structure without sacrificing their delicacy. Jean-Marc works in single-varietal or blended cuvées and also produces Pinot Noir reds of surprising depth.

Sylvaner Origin Blanc 2021

Jean-Marc Dreyer
Citrus notes, orange peel, and a fine, clean structure: this Sylvaner Origin from Jean-Marc Dreyer is refined and elegant. It offers depth, opulence, and aroma, with superb structure on the palate. The grapes are macerated in whole bunches, after which the wine is aged for eleven months in foudres. You can try it with a seafood platter, but we enjoy it with everything: it's perfect for aperitifs as well as the most distinguished dinners—dry sausage or a financial vol-au-vent. Biodynamic method, fermentation by indigenous yeasts, unfiltered, unclarified, no sulfites added in the vineyard or in the cellar. Jean-Marc Dreyer's Origin range is dedicated to single-varietal wines based on Alsatian varieties, and all the wines are worth the detour: each grape variety is enhanced by skin maceration, sometimes with a touch of controlled oxidation, and discovering these wines is always a surprise and a delight.

To find out more
"Maceration is a tradition in Alsace!" says Jean-Marc Dreyer, adding that direct pressing in this region is a modern invention, linked to the advent of electricity. In the past, people worked by hand and let the grapes macerate before sending the marc to the press. » Whole-bunch maceration is Jean-Marc Dreyer's signature and represents 85% of the estate's production, the remainder consisting of direct-pressed whites, often aged using controlled oxidation. Jean-Marc succeeds several generations of his family at the Dreyer & Fils estate, established in 1830 between Obernai and Molsheim. Upon taking over the estate, he immediately opted for biodynamics, but he hesitated for a while between several methods: at first, his wines were more oaky, aged in new barrels with stirring. Then came the sweet period: all his wines contained residual sugar. In 2008, he tried vinifying without any sulfur and found his direction: the following winter, upon returning from the pilgrimage to Compostela, he swore never to add sulfur to any wine again. Having made this decision, he asserts his style around skin maceration, quite advanced, chiseled, always surprising on Alsatian grape varieties, of which it brings out the structure without sacrificing the delicacy. Jean-Marc works in single-varietal or blended vintages and also produces Pinot Noir reds of surprising depth.

Gewurztraminer Origin Blanc 2021

Jean-Marc Dreyer
Fragrant, powerful, sumptuous, disconcerting, addictive, layered, and surprisingly complex, Gewurztraminer Origin is Gewurztraminer as you've come to expect it, with a super-powerful aromatic profile, without the sugar commonly associated with this grape variety. Jean-Marc Dreyer's Origin range is dedicated to single-varietal cuvées based on Alsatian varieties, and this one gives a multidimensional nature to a grape variety that proves it has never had its last word. Decidedly orange, this macerated Gewurztraminer is the answer to those who tend to find this grape variety heady and syrupy: all the sugars have been eaten, leaving an extraordinary richness of aromas, naked and unvarnished. The mango, ylang-ylang, the bouquet of flowers and exotic fruits are all there, enhanced by a dry and straight, unsweetened structure. This wine calls out for foie gras, but it can be drunk with anything. Biodynamic method, fermentation by indigenous yeasts, unfiltered, unclarified, no sulfites added in the vineyard or in the cellar.

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"Maceration in Alsace is a tradition!" says Jean-Marc Dreyer, adding that direct pressing in this region is a modern invention, linked to the advent of electricity. In the past, we worked by hand and let the grapes macerate before sending the marc to the press. " Whole bunch maceration is Jean-Marc Dreyer's signature and represents 85% of the estate's production, the rest consisting of direct-pressed whites, often aged using controlled oxidation. Jean-Marc succeeds several generations of his family at the Dreyer & Fils estate, created in 1830 between Obernai and Molsheim. Upon taking over the estate, he immediately opted for biodynamics, but he hesitated for a while between several methods: at the beginning, his wines were more oaky, aged in new barrels with stirring. Then, a sweet period: all his wines contain residual sugar. In 2008, he tried vinifying without any sulfur and found his direction: the following winter, upon returning from the pilgrimage to Compostela, he swore never to add sulfur to any wine again. Having made this decision, he asserts his style around skin maceration, quite advanced, chiseled, always surprising on Alsatian grape varieties, of which it brings out the structure without sacrificing the delicacy. Jean-Marc works in single-varietal or blended vintages and also produces Pinot Noir reds of surprising depth.

Les Fesses Blanc 2019,

Frédéric Gounan
As aromatic and complex as can be, Frédéric Gounan's Les Fesses is one of the winemaker's bestsellers: a beautiful, rich, distinguished, mineral-forward gastronomic wine, dominated by remarkably pure notes of honey and white fruits (quince, apple, pear, rhubarb). There's no provocation in the appellation: Les Fesses is the name of the plot from which this white Sauvignon and Pinot Gris, produced biodynamically and using natural vinification, comes. The soils of the plot are rich in minerals: clay-limestone, granite, and basalt. The direct-pressed Sauvignon must ferments for six months in vats with the destemmed Pinot Gris, before aging for three years in barrels. A white for all occasions and all pairings.

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Coming from a family of farmers established in the commune of Saint-Sandoux (Puy-de-Dôme) for at least two centuries, Frédéric Gounan was in his first life a mechanic and prototype creator for the French motorcycle brand Voxan, whose headquarters were in Issoire. He turned away from the industrial world to devote himself to wine with his partner Caroline. He intends to take advantage of the magnificent terroirs of his native village, far from "pissing the vines", as was done in the past: he notes that everything that comes from this land has exceptional taste qualities. He takes over plots of Gamay d'Auvergne, plants other grape varieties, and ends up producing vintages that are among the tastiest and most sought-after in Auvergne. On this land of the Chaîne des Puys, Pinot Noirs grow on black basalt soils, while Sauvignons and Pinot Gris grow on white clay-limestone soils with basalt pebbles. A follower of organic and biodynamic farming, Frédéric also applies methods he deems appropriate to the climate and terroir: to facilitate photosynthesis in this harsh and contrasting climate, he practices lyre trellising, which allows the vines' foliage to be aerated and exposed to the sun, guaranteeing ripe fruit at harvest. Always a mechanic at heart, he makes his tools and tinkers with his tractors according to his needs. His wines are rare and distinguished, highly sought after by wine lovers: small estate (less than two hectares), small production (by volume, not by spirit).

The Blanc Blanc 2021,

Patrick Bouju
Auvergne Chardonnay clearly has no fewer stories to tell than that of the terroirs where it is better known: this is a magnificent white wine obtained through skin maceration, aged for eighteen months in barrels. It's a superb wine to drink without hesitation. Boasting a magnificent structure and beautiful complexity, with notes of white fruits (pear, apple), it's particularly suited to food. It will pair well with roasted and grilled dishes: fries, Darphin potatoes, roast chicken, or roasted rack of black pork. Aging potential: ten years. Open twenty minutes before tasting, decant if possible.

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Near Billom, the Limagne clermontoise rises towards the east to form a hilly area with a mild climate, dominated by volcanic hills. This is the Auvergne Tuscany, so named because of its resemblance to the Italian province. This land of mixed subsistence farming was once covered with vines and was the preferred domain of Gamay d'Auvergne, a robust ancient strain, the origin of dense, deep and fruity wines. This is where Patrick Bouju cultivates and vinifies, on these high-quality volcanic soils and mainly on old vines. The soils vary between basalt, limestone, clay-limestone and pozzolan. Patrick collects and cares for the best terroirs of Puy-de-Dôme, often abandoned, and gives them new life. He also preserves native grape varieties, of which he cultivates a good fifty, and also works as a wine merchant using purchased organic grapes. The current renaissance of the Auvergne vineyard (which was once the third largest in France) owes a lot to Patrick. The fact that he likes to lend a hand to his winegrower friends in France and elsewhere only confirms his image as a model, a leader. His partnerships are famous: with Action Bronson for the A la Natural series, with Jason Ligas in Greece for Sous le Végétal… Patrick practices long macerations, and the wines rest for up to six months after bottling. Very sensitive to sulfites in wines, Patrick has found that his own wines do very well without them. He has also observed that if the grapes are healthy and concentrated, the balance is achieved on its own, regardless of the successive phases a vintage goes through. His noble, chiseled, distinguished, never bland wines are immediately recognizable in the glass. They are straight, clean, precise, often marked by floral notes and a spicy minerality. They also constitute a formidable anthology of the terroirs and ancient vines of Basse-Auvergne and its volcanic soils.

Lulu Rouge 2021,

Patrick Bouju
Lulu is at once distinguished, complex, charming, and easy to drink. The fruit, round, opulent, and slightly candied (blackberry, morello cherry), gives way on the palate to a lively, slightly saline minerality, with just the right touch of astringency and spice. For those who are somewhat familiar with Patrick Boulu's wines, the mention of this Lulu cuvée almost brings tears to their eyes. It is a magnificent and renowned wine, a delicious and velvety cuvée, with animal and spicy notes, where the red fruits are generously expressed. Lulu comes from a basalt plot in Corent, planted with Gamay d'Auvergne vines over seventy years old. The destemmed harvest macerates for five months in amphorae. It is aged for twelve months in oak barrels. Decanting recommended.

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Near Billom, the Limagne clermontoise rises eastward to form a hilly area with a mild climate, dominated by volcanic hills. This is the Auvergne Tuscany, so named because of its resemblance to the Italian province. This land of mixed subsistence farming was once covered with vines and was the preferred domain of Gamay d'Auvergne, a robust ancient strain, the origin of dense, deep, and fruity wines. This is where Patrick Bouju cultivates and vinifies, on these high-quality volcanic soils and mainly on old vines. The soils vary between basalt, limestone, clay-limestone, and pozzolan. Patrick collects and cares for the best terroirs of Puy-de-Dôme, often abandoned, and gives them new life. He also preserves native grape varieties, of which he cultivates a good fifty, and also works as a wine merchant using purchased organic grapes. The current renaissance of the Auvergne vineyard (which was once the third largest in France) owes a lot to Patrick. The fact that he likes to lend a hand to his winegrower friends in France and elsewhere only confirms his image as a model, a leader. His partnerships are famous: with Action Bronson for the A la Natural series, with Jason Ligas in Greece for Sous le Végétal… Patrick practices long macerations, and the wines rest for up to six months after bottling. Very sensitive to sulfites in wines, Patrick has found that his own wines do very well without them. He has also observed that if the grapes are healthy and concentrated, the balance is achieved on its own, regardless of the successive phases a vintage goes through. His noble, chiseled, distinguished, never bland wines are immediately recognizable in the glass. They are straight, clean, precise, often marked by floral notes and a spicy minerality. They also constitute a formidable anthology of the terroirs and ancient vines of Basse-Auvergne and its volcanic soils.

L'Enchanteresse Rouge 2016,

La Grapperie
A vintage of old vines, L'Enchanteresse, here in magnum format, is a 100% Pineau d'Aunis with excellent aging potential. A very intense nose of black fruits extends into a beautiful volume on the palate, and the length is thought-provoking. The terroir of this aptly named Enchanteresse is composed of flint clay over limestone. The Pineau d'Aunis, which makes up the entire cuvée, is harvested at full maturity, sorted, then macerated for four weeks in truncated vats with foot-punching. Fermentation occurs naturally using indigenous yeasts, without any oenological additives, to preserve the purity of the grapes and the expression of the vintage and the soil. The wine is aged for between twelve and twenty-four months on lees in demi-muids in cellars dug into the tuffeau stone.

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La Grapperie, in the Coteaux du Loir appellation, is the name of the estate of Renaud Guettier, who can be described as a master of Chenin, but also of Pineau d'Aunis, which is one of the oldest grape varieties in the Loire Valley. His principle, he confides, is "to produce complex, rich wines with good aging potential and imbued with the minerality of their terroir." The vines are located on hillsides, between 60 and 120 meters above sea level, protected from the north winds by the Bercé forest. Depending on the altitude, the terroirs are predominantly clay (at the bottom of the slope), flint (mid-slope) or sand (on the higher ground). The 60-hectare vineyard comprises around fifteen plots. The grape varieties are the two traditionally permitted in the appellation: Chenin for the whites and Pineau d'Aunis for 90% of the reds, the remainder consisting of a few acres of Côt, Gamay, and Grolleau. The average age of the vines is seventy years, including almost two hectares of century-old vines and one and a half hectares of vines aged between sixty and eighty years. Convinced of the enormous potential that these old vines can bring to his vintages, Renaud has been meticulous in restoring the vineyard. The entire estate is farmed organically. The soils are worked, and all viticultural interventions are manual, including the harvest, which is carried out at full maturity, which is reflected in the fullness and smoothness of the wines. For the reds, the Pineaux d'Aunis are partially destemmed (depending on the plot) and the macerations are quite long, three to four weeks, with punching down, to promote aging potential. The wines are aged in barrels for between twelve and twenty-four months, then racked, blended and bottled without filtration. For the whites, the Chenins are pressed directly at low pressure and then poured into barrels by gravity. Fermentation takes place in barrels, using indigenous yeasts, with complete malolactic fermentation, for at least eighteen months and sometimes up to thirty-six months.

Gamay Rouge 2019,

Domaine de l'Octavin
Whichever way you look at it, Mayga Gamay is very Gamay: fruity, juicy, with pleasant notes of raspberry, blackberry, licorice, and cherry. Good acidity, lovely minerality, plenty of aroma, and a suppleness that asserts itself in the glass. Mayga Gamay also offers a slight sparkle that awakens the dead. The grapes come from Pierre Boyat's estate in Leynes, Beaujolais, and macerate for twenty days in whole bunches.

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"You don't need anything," says Alice Bouvot, winemaker at Domaine de l'Octavin, "just a grape that feels good in its skin." Everything is said in favor of natural wine; it's a perfect description. Established in 2005, Domaine d'Alice is located in Arbois, in the Jura wine region, often described as the most organic vineyard in France. The practice of producing – among other things – oxidative wines is a good preparation for nature, as this type of wine does not allow any chemical additives and especially no sulfites. It is a secret of this magnificent region. Originally spread over two hectares, the estate, managed entirely biodynamically (Demeter) since 2010, has expanded through the gradual acquisition of plots and now covers seven hectares. An accomplished musician and passionate music lover, Alice aims to apply her musical sensitivity to the wines she makes. She draws a parallel between the technical perfection of conventional wines, which risks excluding feeling, while "a musician who does not know music theory and plays with his guts creates emotion." For her, living wine is like this: instinctive, improvised, emotional. Introduced to natural wine by Stéphane Planche, sommelier at chef Jean-Paul Jeunet in Arbois, she faithfully followed this path. The sometimes whimsical names of her vintages are inspired sometimes by musical art (Dorabella, Zerline), sometimes by the numerous plots of land that make up her vineyard (En Curon, Les Corvées, En Poussot, etc.), and do not disdain a pun from time to time. Likewise, the labels adorned with happy and salacious little gnomes are a signature of the estate. As for the grape varieties, they are the classics of the Jura: Poulsard, Trousseau, Pinot Noir for the reds, and Chardonnay, Savagnin for the whites. Alongside her Arbois wines, Alice has created a business selling "on the vine" grapes (Ecocert certified) with her winegrower friends in the region. Natural, committed, joyful and highly drinkable, Alice Bouvot's wines are all the more sought-after as the vintages, produced in plot-by-plot mode, appear, disappear and reappear depending on the vintage and inspiration.

Saint Romain Sous Roche Rouge 2018,

Domaine de Chassorney
The olfactory bouquet of this Saint-Romain "Sous Roche" offers notes of morello cherry and sweeter red fruits such as strawberry and pomegranate. On the palate, it displays superb structure, well-rounded tannins, and lovely notes of rustic, earthy red and black fruits. There is plenty of mid-palate concentration, aromas, energy, and length. The wine blossoms beautifully in the glass. This Saint-Romain "Sous Roche" is a pure Pinot Noir from a plot with a steep, south-southeast-facing terroir located between 280 and 400 meters above sea level in the Saint-Romain appellation. The soils are primarily marl, limestone, and clay. The grapes, from fifty-year-old vines, macerate in whole bunches. The aging is approximately one year in barrels.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for some time as a wine broker before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura, Languedoc, and elsewhere. At his farm, the soil and vines are worked as naturally as possible: regular horse-drawn ploughing, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are tended according to biodynamic principles: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper, and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Rum Prélude Batch 10, 49.8° - 70cl

Distillerie Longueteau

Prélude Batch 10 is a single-variety rum made from 100% red sugar cane. It is the result of a skillful blend of several vintages selected by the cellar master before aging in French oak barrels. It combines the aromatic palettes of different rums to create an unparalleled harmony. It is left at its original strength, without coloring or filtration: its alcohol content can therefore vary slightly depending on the edition. On the palate, a hint of caramel combines with the aromatic richness of the cane juice. Rich and fiery, but not lacking in freshness, this Prélude Batch 10 rum is designed for both initiation and connoisseur pleasure.

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The Longueteau distillery, located in Capesterre-Belle-Eau (Guadeloupe), is the oldest distillery on the island still in operation. It has the distinction of being entirely self-sufficient in sugar cane production, which it uses to obtain its magnificent terroir agricultural rums. Agricultural rum, we should point out, is made from pure sugar cane juice, unlike many other Caribbean rums, which are produced from cane molasses. It is a specialty of the French West Indies. The estate is currently in the hands of François Longueteau, a distiller since 1979. Production is, as it was originally, artisanal and traditional, but the sugarcane terroirs are developed using plot-by-plot methods—this is Longueteau's unique feature, the first distillery on the island to adopt this approach. Two varieties of sugarcane, blue cane and red cane, are cultivated, as well as fruits from the Guadeloupe region. Longueteau rums and the resulting preparations (punches, shrubberies, etc.) are fine, aromatic, deep, and fragrant.

Le Rosé 2021,

Clos des B Provence - Côtes de Provence AOC AOP



Very fruity, with a nose of red fruit sorbet, notes of small red berries on the palate, and a finish marked by orange zest, Le Rosé is (as its name suggests) a natural rosé wine emblematic of the sandy-schist terroir of the Gulf of Saint-Tropez and the unique microclimate of the hills of Grimaud. It is produced under the Côtes-de-Provence appellation and made from two southern grape varieties common in the region: 90% Grenache (predominantly) and 10% Cinsault. It is a direct-pressed rosé, extracted using a vertical press after destemming the grapes. No crushing is performed. The two grape varieties ferment together in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats, without added sulfites. No fining, filtration, or addition of sulfites at bottling.

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Clos des B (initials of the two owners, Gwendolyn Berger and Jean-Jacques Branger) is located in Grimaud, in the Gulf of Saint-Tropez. They are therefore the proud producers of the very first natural cuvées from this geographical area. Those who know that this region is home to some interesting viticulture will avoid thinking of the celebrity seaside resort and poolside rosé: before the two Bs bought these three hectares of vines, all these wines went to the cooperative cellar of the Vignerons de Saint-Tropez. Driven by a "thirst for vines," as they say, Gwendolyn and Jean-Jacques overcame administrative difficulties, restored the vineyard, and soon produced reds, rosés, and even a blanc de noirs. Their grape varieties are typical of the region: Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvèdre, growing on schistose sands crossed by quartz veins. The property benefits from a microclimate that protects the vines from humidity, disease, and frost. The viticulture and winemaking approach resolutely embraces organic (the estate has been in conversion since 2020), biodynamics, and natural methods. The wines are sulfite-free, unfined, and unfiltered. The wines of Clos des B are a true reflection of their terroir and climate: fresh, fruity, and very pleasant to drink.

Vin de France Cuvée Madloba White 2020

Paul Estève

Madloba blanc is an orange wine that asserts itself from the first intensely floral nose, full of character and depth. The floral nature is confirmed on the palate with an abundance of tea rose, accompanied by a surprising, exotic expression of lychee and mango. With a rather rich and dense body, the freshness acts as a balance, and lovely bitter touches mark the finish. This white Madloba ("thank you" in Georgian) is produced in the Saint-Joseph AOP. It is a blend of 50% Marsanne and 50% Viognier. The vines, almost forty years old, are planted at an altitude of 350 meters, on a hillside plot with granite and black mica soils. The two grape varieties are fermented together for six months in tinajas, unburied terracotta jars, and after pressing the wine returns to the tinaja for six months of aging. This aging method promotes the wine's texture and develops the fruit. Decant one hour before serving. Perfect for oriental, Asian, and exotic cuisines in general.

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Paul Estève and Chrystelle Vareille are the creators of the Domaine des Miquettes, whose great specificity is the use of Georgian techniques. They are passionate about this Caucasian country, the cradle of wine, where eight thousand year old winemaking techniques are still used. At the heart of this viticulture is the qvevri, the buried jar where all the winemaking takes place: fermentation with skin maceration and aging. They set out to explore this country and returned with the decision to age all their wines in buried jars. They have twenty-six, but distinguish between tinajas (Spanish jars) for fermentation-maceration and buried "amphorae" for aging. No sulfur is added. For both reds and whites, the terracotta erases astringency and transmutes it into a velvety texture, a fruity and supple material.
The estate, located in Ardèche, is south of the Saint-Joseph appellation. Paul trained with René-Jean Dard and François Ribo, two great figures of natural wine in the Rhône Valley. With Chrystelle, he began by taking over Paul's family farm with two ares of vines, then in 2004 the entire estate, which now covers 4.3 hectares. The white grape varieties are located around the house, the red grape varieties are planted on steep hillsides, between 300 and 450 meters above sea level. The plots rest on a granite base with light soils: black mica granite, schist and gneiss. Everything is cultivated organically (Ecocert) with biodynamic practices. The vines are cared for and fortified using plant decoctions and clay. The soils are worked by horse or winch and pickaxe. No chemical inputs are added to the vineyard work. The harvest is entirely manual.

Auxey Duresses Les Crais Rouge 2020,

Domaine de Chassorney
Refined, complex, straightforward, and fruity, this beautiful red wine from the Les Crais plot in the Auxey-Duresses appellation is a superb expression of Pinot Noir, typically Burgundian, from vines over forty years old: fresh, crisp, and with powerful aromas of red fruits. Can age for a few years.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undistorted by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counterexample to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for a while as a wine broker before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The exercise is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc regions. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular ploughing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Reds or whites, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Saint Romain Sous Roche Qvevris Red 2020

Domaine de Chassorney

Plenty of fruit and roundness supported by sumptuous minerality; the blackberry and blackcurrant give free rein, and the palate reveals remarkable density and fullness. The Pinot Noir benefits greatly from the smoothness provided by aging in qvevris (Georgian-style terracotta jars). This Pinot Noir from the Qvevris series comes from a plot with a steep, south-southeast-facing terroir located between 280 and 400 meters above sea level in the Saint-Romain appellation. The soils are primarily marl, limestone, and clay. The grapes macerate in whole bunches.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undistorted by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked as a wine broker for some time before creating the Domaine de Chassorney with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his home, the soil and vines are worked as naturally as possible: regular horse-drawn ploughing, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to biodynamic principles: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Reds or whites, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Saint Joseph Blanc 2020,

Thierry Alexandre
Saint-Joseph Blanc is a wine to discover for its remarkable balance between richness and freshness, a hallmark of white wines from the Upper Rhône Valley. This is a truly delicious wine, which possesses the clarity and roundness of its appellation. Its lightly toasted and smoky notes, this invasion of peach and ripe apple, will initially captivate you. Then, on the palate, sweetness and freshness will further demonstrate the beauty and solidity of this fine and complex wine, balanced between the richness of its fruit, its freshness, and its soft, satiny texture. The finish features balsamic notes of spices and lavender. This beautiful wine is made from old Marsanne and Viognier vines, planted around 1960, cultivated biodynamically on loess, decomposed granite, and gneiss soils in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, on the banks of the Ardèche near its mouth. The southeast-facing lieu-dit, near Sainte-Épine, is one of the best in the appellation. The harvest is entirely manual, followed by a passage in a cold room before pressing, and no inputs are used in the vineyard or the cellar. The wine is produced by direct pressing and goes into old barrels where it ferments on natural yeasts for two months. It is then racked and returned to barrels for a year of aging. Warning: very small production, make the most of it!

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Thierry Alexandre produces little (two hectares in Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, in Ardèche, and a few vines north of Crozes-Hermitage), but he produces well and carefully, entirely biodynamically and without additives in the vineyard or cellar. His bottles are in the Saint-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage blanc and Vin de France appellations. The grape varieties are typical of this northern part of the Rhône Valley: Marsanne, Roussanne, Syrah, Viognier. The estate lies on quite varied soils, mainly decomposed granite, as well as gneiss, sandy clay and loess. He practices semicarbonic fermentation in whole bunches for fairly long periods and aging, depending on the vintage, in stainless steel or old barrels. His wines are as rare and sought-after as the winemaker is humble and discreet, but there is nothing haughty or inaccessible about them: pleasant, warm, fluid and well balanced between fruit and mineral, they are wines for pleasure that should be reserved for the most friendly gatherings.