Still Wines

Vino Rosso Red 2018,

Corva Gialla
Vino Rosso, simply named, can be considered the emblematic red of Azienda Corva Gialla. Red fruits, freshness, mineral and earthy notes, tertiary aromas, spices, and tobacco: this is how we can summarize the profile of this 100% Sangiovese with the Vino da Tavola (table wine) designation. With a few years of bottle age, this 2018 offers beautiful notes of evolution and a pronounced but not excessive body. The richness, due to a high content of natural sugars during fermentation, and the polyphenolic maturity are remarkable, as well as the balance between velvety and tannicity, lightness and body, roundness and acidity. On the nose, notes of spices such as cinnamon, black pepper and fennel; on the palate, the wine is full-bodied and red fruits dominate: ripe cherry, raspberry and strawberry. Black fruits and plum are not left out, and delicious aromas of dried fruits (prune, fig) combine with spices on the finish. Vino Rosso is a classic Sangiovese from old and newer vines planted at 450 meters above sea level on a west-facing plot with volcanic soils. The harvest is destemmed. A starter culture is made from a small proportion of grapes, while the rest is directly pressed and added directly to the starter culture. The wine rests in fiberglass vats until bottling in March.

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Azienda Corva Gialla ("yellow crow") is a wine estate in Lazio, Italy, located on the edge of Umbria in the Alta Tuscia Viterbese. A volcanic region considered one of the most beautiful in Italy and characterized by its calanches, tall tuff rock formations delineating deep valleys carved by numerous rivers and streams. Corva Gialla is located in Lubriano, opposite Cività di Bagnoregio. Alta Tuscia is a breeding ground for young winemaking talents dedicated to nature who are enhancing these historically neglected lands. Founded in 2017, the estate has four hectares cultivated by Beatrice Arweiler, originally from another wine-growing region, between the Rhine and the Moselle. The new owner also planted an olive grove (Frantoio and Leccino varieties) and developed the estate for mixed farming and livestock production. The vines were planted with the help of Gian Marco Antonuzzi of the Le Coste estate. The friable volcanic soil lends itself beautifully to viticulture and the planting of grape varieties such as Grechetto d'Umbria, Trebbiano, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and Ciliegiolo. The estate's wines are quintessentially Italian, meaning they are crafted primarily for enjoyment. They are straightforward, deep, and easy to drink, expressing the strong minerality of their soils.

Munjebel Blanc 2021

Frank Cornelissen
“Our first white wine,” explains Frank Cornelissen of Munjebel Blanc, “started out as an orange wine, fermented on the skins for a long time. I loved the tactile feel and density, but I missed the finesse and precision of classic French white wines from the Loire Valley, for example. With the 2015 vintage, I modified our technique to seek the purity and flavors of Etna, which led us to maintain a short skin maceration period and age our white wines for a long time in the coldest part of our cellar before bottling.” The elegance, purity and density achieved make this wine an ideal companion for a wide variety of dishes and cuisines, from fish to white meats. » The white version of the Munjebel cuvée combines beautiful concentration, freshness and oriental aromas: orange blossom, jasmine, dried apricot. Produced on medium-altitude plots from Grecanico Dorato and Carricante in equal parts, on the Calderara, Borriglione, Crasà and Picciolo plots, Munjebel white is very mature. The vines are over forty years old; the grapes are destemmed, lightly crushed and macerated for about four days. No fining, no sulfiting, light filtration before bottling. This wine will pair with an almost infinite variety of dishes, meat and fish, oysters and shellfish, and all Asian cuisines.

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A great must-have and universally respected figure in natural wine, Frank Cornelissen is a classic. This man of constant questioning lives in human and cosmic resonance with his contrasting terroir: he has demonstrated that the powerful minerality of a great volcanic soil can be highlighted by the naturalness of his wines. The brilliance, the directness and the exquisite fruitiness of his vintages earn him the admiration even of those reluctant to go "natural". They are good initiation wines.
His Sicilian azienda is located in Passopisciaro, in the northern Etna valley. It is, he says, the "Night Coast" of Etna for the great diversity of its wines spread over many locations (contrade) at different altitudes. The climate is continental and harsh, even snowy, in winter, but very warm and sunny from June to September. The altitude gives the wines tension and elegance. The vines coexist with a Mediterranean polyculture: olive trees, almond trees, vegetable gardens... (Frank also produces olive oil). The age of the vines ranges from forty years to over one hundred years. The plots, nineteen in number, on twenty-four hectares in total, are all at altitude, between 600 and 900 meters, on several volcanic flows. They are all vinified separately: Frank decides on the blend based on the quality of the wines from each plot. In general, seven or eight vintages are made in addition to the generic wines (rosé, basic red and white). The soils are made up of different types of basalt, between powder and rock, with perfect drainage that allows for the production of concentrated and fine wines.
Nerello Mascalese dominates the estate's grape varieties. This great traditional red grape variety from the northern valley of Etna is the only grape variety used in the great vintages. Its growing cycle is long, which allows the vine to work the soil and capture its minerality in the fruit. Other grape varieties include: Nerello Capuccio, Minella Bianco, Minella Nera, Alicante Bouschet, Malvasia, Cattaratto, Moscadella, Grecanico Dorato, Carricante…

Cyprès de Toi Blanc 2022

Fond Cyprès
Cyprès de Toi Blanc represents—in our opinion—the classicism of Languedoc white wine, a pure expression of Chardonnay grown on marl-limestone soils using natural and traditional vinification. Fresh, crisp, and aromatic, it offers a fruity yet dry balance, revealing itself as an excellent all-terrain white wine for all occasions. The apple and pear notes of previous vintages are now followed by citrus notes, yellow fruits (mango, apricot, peach), and the same southern herbaceous signature typical of the estate's whites: garrigue, thyme, fig leaf, and fresh lemon peel. The grapes are directly pressed, and the must settles in the cold. Fermentation, using indigenous yeasts, and aging take place in stainless steel vats. A very light filtration is carried out before bottling, and no inputs or additives are reported.

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This Corbières estate is built on solid foundations: its two winemakers, Rodolphe and Laetitia, are also descendants of winemakers. Even before planting their first vine, they already had a clear objective: "to produce southern wines that reflect us, wines with character attached to our soils, with freshness and refined tannins." They want to obtain entirely natural wines, concentrates of terroir. In the heart of the old Corbières massif, they are taking over an old heart of the estate already planted with abandoned Carignan and Grenache, which have seen neither fertilizer nor pesticides for years: these clean and living soils are an ideal condition for launching into natural wine. Around this historic heart, they first planted Grenache Noir and Syrah, then a plot of white grape varieties: Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne. The estate has been Ecocert certified since 2010 and also complies with the Nature & Progrès charter. The vinification is done without the addition of sulfites or exogenous yeasts. "We make wines for pleasure," say Laetitia and Rodolphe. For them, natural wine is first assessed by taste, from the harvest. The vintages closely follow the plots, the musts are fruity, fluid, and complex. The wines of Fond Cyprès poetically evoke the estate's ecosystem and the vegetation that protects the plots: the pine forests, the shady springs, the beauty of the natural environment that brings freshness to the wines and leaves the soil's signature. Deliciously balanced between mineral imprint, vegetal environment and expression of fruit, the wines of Fond Cyprès reflect the South: the caress of its sun, but also the freshness of its shadows.

Pommard Rouge 2021

Domaine de Chassorney
The illustrious Burgundy vineyard of Pommard, the epitome of Burgundy red wine, is represented here by Frédéric Cossard in the form of this beautiful wine full of red fruits and voluptuousness. On the palate, it is supple and light, but also has presence and personality. A straightforward, loyal, taut wine, adored by the ancient Dukes of Burgundy. The soils are clay-limestone and well-drained at the lower slopes, and at higher altitudes are Oxfordian marl, brown calcic and brown calcareous soils. Occasionally, a red tint emerges, revealing iron oxide. Pommard retains a virile and assertive reputation, especially inherited from the 19th century. However, it reveals itself to be sensitive, supple, and feline, tending towards leather, pepper, and chocolate with age. It is best to let this wine age a little to allow it to express its full potential. The Pinot Noir harvest on clay-limestone soil is macerated for three weeks in whole bunches before aging for a year in concrete eggs.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for some time as a wine broker before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura, Languedoc, and elsewhere. At his farm, the soil and vines are worked as naturally as possible: regular horse-drawn ploughing, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are tended according to biodynamic principles: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper, and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Pietre Blanc 2021

La Vinicola di Antonio Gismondi
What a wine! A pure pleasure in the glass, heralded by a beautiful, pure, innocent yellow color. The nose offers a gentle whiff of yellow flowers, a hint of blooming dandelion, and sun-warmed spring nature. These lovely sensations are confirmed on the palate, with one of the loveliest mineral nuances one could dream of: heated limestone, clay, wild herbs, and white fruits. Pietre is remarkable for its balance, its ease on the border between freshness and Mediterranean warmth. The freshness of the Apennine climate and the clay soil, elegantly carried by all the wines of this estate, certainly has something to do with it. Made from a blend of Malvasia di Candia and Falanghina directly pressed, Pietre Blanc evokes by its name the pebbles of its native province. The skin maceration is one or two days depending on the vintage, in stainless steel vats, as is the aging of six to ten months. Unfiltered, no sulfites at bottling. This well-balanced, floral and fruity white will harmonize with many dishes.

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The azienda of Antonio and Anabel Gismondi is located in Cerreto Sanita, in the Benevento region of Campania. A microclimate gives this area an almost continental feel: humid winds from the Tyrrhenian Sea collide with the first ramparts of the Apennine chain, causing condensation in the air and lowering temperatures, which are significantly cooler and more humid than on the coast. If we add a thermal inversion phenomenon between day and night, common in the Apennine climate, the freshness of the wines from the Antonio Gismondi estate is nothing mysterious in this southern Italy, which is nevertheless known for its very hot climate. The estate is family-run: for generations, the Gismondi family has cultivated vines and made wine using the most traditional and natural methods, to which are added biodynamic techniques. For a long time, of the fifteen tons of grapes produced each year, one ton was reserved for vinification on site for family consumption, the rest going to the local wine cooperative. It was the meeting with Massimo Marchiori and Antonella of Partida Creus that led Antonio and his wife Anabel to start producing natural wines at home, using the entire harvest. The two-hectare vineyard is located between 350 and 380 meters above sea level, on clay, loam, and stony soils, with two-thirds facing south, planted with vines around six years old. The remainder faces southwest and corresponds to the Pietre and Cerreto cuvées, with vines thirty years old. The grape varieties are Merlot, Freisa, and Sangiovese for the reds, and Falanghina and Malvasia di Candia for the whites.

Skin-Contact Rafling White 2021

Fréderic Cossard

Classified as a Vin de France, Skin Contact Rafling is a wine resulting from a fairly extensive skin maceration: hence the presence of "Skin Contact" on the label. "Rafling" is a play on words relating to the maceration on stems (whole bunches) and the name of the Riesling grape variety. It is a dense and robust wine that is both round and straightforward, elegant and full of personality. Our national Frédéric Cossard, as comfortable with Burgundian-style winemaking (but without additives) as with the multi-colored refinements of merchant winemaking, offers us here a Riesling from twenty-five-year-old biodynamic vines harvested in Alsace on clay-limestone soil. Maceration is three weeks in whole bunches. Don't worry too much about food and wine pairings, this one is made for all occasions and can even compete with dishes that we usually think are reserved for red wine. Its aging potential—at least ten years—is generous.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undistorted by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful wine-growing practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice which are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for a time as a wine broker before creating the domaine de Chassorney with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine merchant house and purchased organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais vintages. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular plowing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less “regional” bottles, Frédéric’s vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Savigny les Beaune Blanc Vermots Blanc 2021

Fréderic Cossard
The Savigny-lès-Beaune terroir has accustomed us to great white wines: here is one from the Vermots climate, a locality located in the north of the appellation, on the edge of the village. Fresh, refined, and taut, it is a very mineral wine with a lovely hint of richness, floral and lemony, but also brioche-like with a hint of richness. A clean and frank wine, slightly spicy and quite full-bodied, which you can pair with any dish you desire, from the most everyday to the most exceptional, but it has a special affinity with fish and seafood. It also goes well with traditional starters such as scallops à la Normande, vol-au-vent, or bouchee à la reine. The Chardonnays from the clay-limestone soil from which it is made are directly pressed and the must is fermented by indigenous yeasts. No chemical additives are used in the vineyard or in the cellar, and no sulfites are added.

To find out more
Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked as a wine broker for some time before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular ploughing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and coveted wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru les Folatières Blanc 2021

Fréderic Cossard
Deep and dense, slightly smoky, with an airy grace, complex yet joyful, Les Folatières is a fine example of Chardonnay at its zenith. This Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru is distinguished, complex, powerful, and precise. It comes from one of the most famous vineyards in Puligny-Montrachet, located in the hills of the appellation. This clay-limestone parcel of Les Folatières takes its name from the follets or goblins who, it was said, would dance in these places shrouded in morning mists. It is planted with very old vines on clay-limestone soil that gives pride of place to clay, which enhances the wine's minerality. The age of the vines is also felt in the depth and structure of the wine, and likewise, it benefits from superb aging qualities.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful wine-growing practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked as a wine broker for some time before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular ploughing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and coveted wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Chambolle Musigny Les Herbues Rouge 2021

Fréderic Cossard
Exquisitely refined and elegant, yet also dense and straightforward, this Chambolle-Musigny "Les Herbues" opens with a beautiful garnet color. It is a complex and delicate red wine with aromas of raspberry, candied strawberry, and violet, with a hint of undergrowth, licorice, and cocoa. A floral finish reminiscent of red rose. Supple and deep, with very fine tannins, this is an all-Pinot Noir from the Chambolle-Musigny Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée. The plot called Les Herbues is located between 250 and 300 meters above sea level. The clayey terroir, facing east, rests on hard, fissured limestone formations that allow the roots to plunge into the subsoil. The grapes macerate in whole bunches. Aging is approximately one year in barrels. This clear and silky wine will be enjoyed with a gourmet meal as well as with regional dishes.

To find out more
Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked as a wine broker for some time before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular ploughing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and coveted wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Savigny les Beaune les Gollardes Rouge 2021

Domaine de Chassorney
This supple and fruity Pinot Noir, graced with delicious notes of licorice, offers beautiful concentration, great finesse, and freshness. Full-bodied and generous, with a savory, slightly smoky finish. Full of finesse and red fruit, this Burgundy from the Les Gollardes climate (on the northern part of the Savigny-les-Beaune valley, gravelly soil, southern exposure) will benefit from a few years in the cellar to express its full potential. Its aging potential is around ten years.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undistorted by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful wine-growing practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice which are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for a time as a wine broker before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine merchant company and purchased organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais vintages. The practice is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura, Languedoc and elsewhere. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular plowing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Magnum Gauthier Blanc 2021

Jean-Marc Dreyer
Here's a rarity, a curiosity, a challenge, and a precious bottle. If you're already familiar with Jean-Marc Dreyer's Origin range, a series of maceration cuvées based on the six Alsatian white grape varieties—Sylvaner, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Auxerrois, Pinot Gris, and Muscat—you'll find this one, in a way, the synthesis and summary of that range. For good reason: it's the result of blending the fin de cuvée of each Origin reference after bottling. But why Gauthier? It's the first name of a pilgrim on the road to Santiago de Compostela who spent some time with Jean-Marc Dreyer and took part in the work in the cellar. After noting that this blend of fine vintages was excellent to drink, he suggested that Jean-Marc bottle it and make it into a special vintage. "It tastes so good, it would be a shame not to!" It tastes incredibly good, in fact, notes the winemaker. So this vintage is naturally named in honor of Gauthier. Before bottling, Gauthier is kept for two to three months in barrels to marry the flavors and give unity to the wine. This unusual decision has produced a vintage in its own right, delicious, full of fullness and character, with a distinct touch of controlled oxidation. Gauthier is always packaged in magnums and, of course, contains no more sulfites or additives than the vintages from which it is composed. That is to say, zero.

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“Maceration is a tradition in Alsace!” says Jean-Marc Dreyer, adding that direct pressing in this region is a modern invention, linked to the advent of electricity. In the past, people worked by hand and let the grapes macerate before sending the marc to the press.” Whole-bunch maceration is Jean-Marc Dreyer’s signature and represents 85% of the estate’s production, the rest consisting of direct-pressed whites, often aged using controlled oxidation. Jean-Marc succeeds several generations of his family at the Dreyer & Fils estate, established in 1830 between Obernai and Molsheim. Upon taking over the estate, he immediately opted for biodynamics, but hesitated for a while between several methods: at first, his wines were more oaky, aged in new barrels with stirring. Then, a sweet period: all his wines contain residual sugar. In 2008, he tried vinifying without any sulfur and found his direction: the following winter, upon returning from the pilgrimage to Compostela, he swore never to add sulfur to any wine again. Having made this decision, he affirmed his style around skin maceration, quite extensive, chiseled, always surprising on Alsatian grape varieties, bringing out their structure without sacrificing their delicacy. Jean-Marc works in single-varietal or blended cuvées and also produces Pinot Noir reds of surprising depth.

Sylvaner Origin Blanc 2021

Jean-Marc Dreyer
Citrus notes, orange peel, and a fine, clean structure: this Sylvaner Origin from Jean-Marc Dreyer is refined and elegant. It offers depth, opulence, and aroma, with superb structure on the palate. The grapes are macerated in whole bunches, after which the wine is aged for eleven months in foudres. You can try it with a seafood platter, but we enjoy it with everything: it's perfect for aperitifs as well as the most distinguished dinners—dry sausage or a financial vol-au-vent. Biodynamic method, fermentation by indigenous yeasts, unfiltered, unclarified, no sulfites added in the vineyard or in the cellar. Jean-Marc Dreyer's Origin range is dedicated to single-varietal wines based on Alsatian varieties, and all the wines are worth the detour: each grape variety is enhanced by skin maceration, sometimes with a touch of controlled oxidation, and discovering these wines is always a surprise and a delight.

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"Maceration is a tradition in Alsace!" says Jean-Marc Dreyer, adding that direct pressing in this region is a modern invention, linked to the advent of electricity. In the past, people worked by hand and let the grapes macerate before sending the marc to the press. » Whole-bunch maceration is Jean-Marc Dreyer's signature and represents 85% of the estate's production, the remainder consisting of direct-pressed whites, often aged using controlled oxidation. Jean-Marc succeeds several generations of his family at the Dreyer & Fils estate, established in 1830 between Obernai and Molsheim. Upon taking over the estate, he immediately opted for biodynamics, but he hesitated for a while between several methods: at first, his wines were more oaky, aged in new barrels with stirring. Then came the sweet period: all his wines contained residual sugar. In 2008, he tried vinifying without any sulfur and found his direction: the following winter, upon returning from the pilgrimage to Compostela, he swore never to add sulfur to any wine again. Having made this decision, he asserts his style around skin maceration, quite advanced, chiseled, always surprising on Alsatian grape varieties, of which it brings out the structure without sacrificing the delicacy. Jean-Marc works in single-varietal or blended vintages and also produces Pinot Noir reds of surprising depth.

Gewurztraminer Origin Blanc 2021

Jean-Marc Dreyer
Fragrant, powerful, sumptuous, disconcerting, addictive, layered, and surprisingly complex, Gewurztraminer Origin is Gewurztraminer as you've come to expect it, with a super-powerful aromatic profile, without the sugar commonly associated with this grape variety. Jean-Marc Dreyer's Origin range is dedicated to single-varietal cuvées based on Alsatian varieties, and this one gives a multidimensional nature to a grape variety that proves it has never had its last word. Decidedly orange, this macerated Gewurztraminer is the answer to those who tend to find this grape variety heady and syrupy: all the sugars have been eaten, leaving an extraordinary richness of aromas, naked and unvarnished. The mango, ylang-ylang, the bouquet of flowers and exotic fruits are all there, enhanced by a dry and straight, unsweetened structure. This wine calls out for foie gras, but it can be drunk with anything. Biodynamic method, fermentation by indigenous yeasts, unfiltered, unclarified, no sulfites added in the vineyard or in the cellar.

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"Maceration in Alsace is a tradition!" says Jean-Marc Dreyer, adding that direct pressing in this region is a modern invention, linked to the advent of electricity. In the past, we worked by hand and let the grapes macerate before sending the marc to the press. " Whole bunch maceration is Jean-Marc Dreyer's signature and represents 85% of the estate's production, the rest consisting of direct-pressed whites, often aged using controlled oxidation. Jean-Marc succeeds several generations of his family at the Dreyer & Fils estate, created in 1830 between Obernai and Molsheim. Upon taking over the estate, he immediately opted for biodynamics, but he hesitated for a while between several methods: at the beginning, his wines were more oaky, aged in new barrels with stirring. Then, a sweet period: all his wines contain residual sugar. In 2008, he tried vinifying without any sulfur and found his direction: the following winter, upon returning from the pilgrimage to Compostela, he swore never to add sulfur to any wine again. Having made this decision, he asserts his style around skin maceration, quite advanced, chiseled, always surprising on Alsatian grape varieties, of which it brings out the structure without sacrificing the delicacy. Jean-Marc works in single-varietal or blended vintages and also produces Pinot Noir reds of surprising depth.

Les Fesses Blanc 2019,

Frédéric Gounan
As aromatic and complex as can be, Frédéric Gounan's Les Fesses is one of the winemaker's bestsellers: a beautiful, rich, distinguished, mineral-forward gastronomic wine, dominated by remarkably pure notes of honey and white fruits (quince, apple, pear, rhubarb). There's no provocation in the appellation: Les Fesses is the name of the plot from which this white Sauvignon and Pinot Gris, produced biodynamically and using natural vinification, comes. The soils of the plot are rich in minerals: clay-limestone, granite, and basalt. The direct-pressed Sauvignon must ferments for six months in vats with the destemmed Pinot Gris, before aging for three years in barrels. A white for all occasions and all pairings.

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Coming from a family of farmers established in the commune of Saint-Sandoux (Puy-de-Dôme) for at least two centuries, Frédéric Gounan was in his first life a mechanic and prototype creator for the French motorcycle brand Voxan, whose headquarters were in Issoire. He turned away from the industrial world to devote himself to wine with his partner Caroline. He intends to take advantage of the magnificent terroirs of his native village, far from "pissing the vines", as was done in the past: he notes that everything that comes from this land has exceptional taste qualities. He takes over plots of Gamay d'Auvergne, plants other grape varieties, and ends up producing vintages that are among the tastiest and most sought-after in Auvergne. On this land of the Chaîne des Puys, Pinot Noirs grow on black basalt soils, while Sauvignons and Pinot Gris grow on white clay-limestone soils with basalt pebbles. A follower of organic and biodynamic farming, Frédéric also applies methods he deems appropriate to the climate and terroir: to facilitate photosynthesis in this harsh and contrasting climate, he practices lyre trellising, which allows the vines' foliage to be aerated and exposed to the sun, guaranteeing ripe fruit at harvest. Always a mechanic at heart, he makes his tools and tinkers with his tractors according to his needs. His wines are rare and distinguished, highly sought after by wine lovers: small estate (less than two hectares), small production (by volume, not by spirit).

The Blanc Blanc 2021,

Patrick Bouju
Auvergne Chardonnay clearly has no fewer stories to tell than that of the terroirs where it is better known: this is a magnificent white wine obtained through skin maceration, aged for eighteen months in barrels. It's a superb wine to drink without hesitation. Boasting a magnificent structure and beautiful complexity, with notes of white fruits (pear, apple), it's particularly suited to food. It will pair well with roasted and grilled dishes: fries, Darphin potatoes, roast chicken, or roasted rack of black pork. Aging potential: ten years. Open twenty minutes before tasting, decant if possible.

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Near Billom, the Limagne clermontoise rises towards the east to form a hilly area with a mild climate, dominated by volcanic hills. This is the Auvergne Tuscany, so named because of its resemblance to the Italian province. This land of mixed subsistence farming was once covered with vines and was the preferred domain of Gamay d'Auvergne, a robust ancient strain, the origin of dense, deep and fruity wines. This is where Patrick Bouju cultivates and vinifies, on these high-quality volcanic soils and mainly on old vines. The soils vary between basalt, limestone, clay-limestone and pozzolan. Patrick collects and cares for the best terroirs of Puy-de-Dôme, often abandoned, and gives them new life. He also preserves native grape varieties, of which he cultivates a good fifty, and also works as a wine merchant using purchased organic grapes. The current renaissance of the Auvergne vineyard (which was once the third largest in France) owes a lot to Patrick. The fact that he likes to lend a hand to his winegrower friends in France and elsewhere only confirms his image as a model, a leader. His partnerships are famous: with Action Bronson for the A la Natural series, with Jason Ligas in Greece for Sous le Végétal… Patrick practices long macerations, and the wines rest for up to six months after bottling. Very sensitive to sulfites in wines, Patrick has found that his own wines do very well without them. He has also observed that if the grapes are healthy and concentrated, the balance is achieved on its own, regardless of the successive phases a vintage goes through. His noble, chiseled, distinguished, never bland wines are immediately recognizable in the glass. They are straight, clean, precise, often marked by floral notes and a spicy minerality. They also constitute a formidable anthology of the terroirs and ancient vines of Basse-Auvergne and its volcanic soils.

Lulu Rouge 2021,

Patrick Bouju
Lulu is at once distinguished, complex, charming, and easy to drink. The fruit, round, opulent, and slightly candied (blackberry, morello cherry), gives way on the palate to a lively, slightly saline minerality, with just the right touch of astringency and spice. For those who are somewhat familiar with Patrick Boulu's wines, the mention of this Lulu cuvée almost brings tears to their eyes. It is a magnificent and renowned wine, a delicious and velvety cuvée, with animal and spicy notes, where the red fruits are generously expressed. Lulu comes from a basalt plot in Corent, planted with Gamay d'Auvergne vines over seventy years old. The destemmed harvest macerates for five months in amphorae. It is aged for twelve months in oak barrels. Decanting recommended.

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Near Billom, the Limagne clermontoise rises eastward to form a hilly area with a mild climate, dominated by volcanic hills. This is the Auvergne Tuscany, so named because of its resemblance to the Italian province. This land of mixed subsistence farming was once covered with vines and was the preferred domain of Gamay d'Auvergne, a robust ancient strain, the origin of dense, deep, and fruity wines. This is where Patrick Bouju cultivates and vinifies, on these high-quality volcanic soils and mainly on old vines. The soils vary between basalt, limestone, clay-limestone, and pozzolan. Patrick collects and cares for the best terroirs of Puy-de-Dôme, often abandoned, and gives them new life. He also preserves native grape varieties, of which he cultivates a good fifty, and also works as a wine merchant using purchased organic grapes. The current renaissance of the Auvergne vineyard (which was once the third largest in France) owes a lot to Patrick. The fact that he likes to lend a hand to his winegrower friends in France and elsewhere only confirms his image as a model, a leader. His partnerships are famous: with Action Bronson for the A la Natural series, with Jason Ligas in Greece for Sous le Végétal… Patrick practices long macerations, and the wines rest for up to six months after bottling. Very sensitive to sulfites in wines, Patrick has found that his own wines do very well without them. He has also observed that if the grapes are healthy and concentrated, the balance is achieved on its own, regardless of the successive phases a vintage goes through. His noble, chiseled, distinguished, never bland wines are immediately recognizable in the glass. They are straight, clean, precise, often marked by floral notes and a spicy minerality. They also constitute a formidable anthology of the terroirs and ancient vines of Basse-Auvergne and its volcanic soils.

BS Blanc de Sumoll White 2017

Partida Creus
Finely macerated, with a superb golden hue vering with orange, BS Blanc de Sumoll is made for the table and refined dishes. Vibrant and aromatic, it offers notes of citrus (grapefruit, orange, lemon), rose, peach, apple, quince, garrigue (thyme, rosemary), and quince, with a rather saline finish. It is also mineral with notes of honey, leather, and stone. This still, sunny Blanc de Noirs, made from 100% white Sumoll (a grape variety that has become extremely rare in Catalonia) and produced directly from the press, is a historic cuvée, the first produced by Massimo and Antonella. This is a very rare wine that should not be missed when a few bottles appear.

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Partida Creus is an important estate, both from a winemaking and historical perspective – we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont – and even from the Langhe region, where wine is well-known – first pursued careers as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug bit them, and soon they abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they found a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties that they passionately revived to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. On their part, it’s not just a matter of saving heritage, no: it’s a matter of taste and nature. Natural wines, which they will continue to make from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravelly, poor and poorly irrigated lands, where the vines suffer to give their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic, entirely manual and natural viticulture in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, ceciat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: it is a true conservatory of the native Catalan grape varieties that Partida Creus cares for. Moscatel, Grenache, Merlot, and Cabernet (among others) are also grown here. Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-varietal wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the cuvée. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush but always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, breathe life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.

L'Enchanteresse Rouge 2016,

La Grapperie
A vintage of old vines, L'Enchanteresse, here in magnum format, is a 100% Pineau d'Aunis with excellent aging potential. A very intense nose of black fruits extends into a beautiful volume on the palate, and the length is thought-provoking. The terroir of this aptly named Enchanteresse is composed of flint clay over limestone. The Pineau d'Aunis, which makes up the entire cuvée, is harvested at full maturity, sorted, then macerated for four weeks in truncated vats with foot-punching. Fermentation occurs naturally using indigenous yeasts, without any oenological additives, to preserve the purity of the grapes and the expression of the vintage and the soil. The wine is aged for between twelve and twenty-four months on lees in demi-muids in cellars dug into the tuffeau stone.

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La Grapperie, in the Coteaux du Loir appellation, is the name of the estate of Renaud Guettier, who can be described as a master of Chenin, but also of Pineau d'Aunis, which is one of the oldest grape varieties in the Loire Valley. His principle, he confides, is "to produce complex, rich wines with good aging potential and imbued with the minerality of their terroir." The vines are located on hillsides, between 60 and 120 meters above sea level, protected from the north winds by the Bercé forest. Depending on the altitude, the terroirs are predominantly clay (at the bottom of the slope), flint (mid-slope) or sand (on the higher ground). The 60-hectare vineyard comprises around fifteen plots. The grape varieties are the two traditionally permitted in the appellation: Chenin for the whites and Pineau d'Aunis for 90% of the reds, the remainder consisting of a few acres of Côt, Gamay, and Grolleau. The average age of the vines is seventy years, including almost two hectares of century-old vines and one and a half hectares of vines aged between sixty and eighty years. Convinced of the enormous potential that these old vines can bring to his vintages, Renaud has been meticulous in restoring the vineyard. The entire estate is farmed organically. The soils are worked, and all viticultural interventions are manual, including the harvest, which is carried out at full maturity, which is reflected in the fullness and smoothness of the wines. For the reds, the Pineaux d'Aunis are partially destemmed (depending on the plot) and the macerations are quite long, three to four weeks, with punching down, to promote aging potential. The wines are aged in barrels for between twelve and twenty-four months, then racked, blended and bottled without filtration. For the whites, the Chenins are pressed directly at low pressure and then poured into barrels by gravity. Fermentation takes place in barrels, using indigenous yeasts, with complete malolactic fermentation, for at least eighteen months and sometimes up to thirty-six months.

Gamay Rouge 2019,

Domaine de l'Octavin
Whichever way you look at it, Mayga Gamay is very Gamay: fruity, juicy, with pleasant notes of raspberry, blackberry, licorice, and cherry. Good acidity, lovely minerality, plenty of aroma, and a suppleness that asserts itself in the glass. Mayga Gamay also offers a slight sparkle that awakens the dead. The grapes come from Pierre Boyat's estate in Leynes, Beaujolais, and macerate for twenty days in whole bunches.

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"You don't need anything," says Alice Bouvot, winemaker at Domaine de l'Octavin, "just a grape that feels good in its skin." Everything is said in favor of natural wine; it's a perfect description. Established in 2005, Domaine d'Alice is located in Arbois, in the Jura wine region, often described as the most organic vineyard in France. The practice of producing – among other things – oxidative wines is a good preparation for nature, as this type of wine does not allow any chemical additives and especially no sulfites. It is a secret of this magnificent region. Originally spread over two hectares, the estate, managed entirely biodynamically (Demeter) since 2010, has expanded through the gradual acquisition of plots and now covers seven hectares. An accomplished musician and passionate music lover, Alice aims to apply her musical sensitivity to the wines she makes. She draws a parallel between the technical perfection of conventional wines, which risks excluding feeling, while "a musician who does not know music theory and plays with his guts creates emotion." For her, living wine is like this: instinctive, improvised, emotional. Introduced to natural wine by Stéphane Planche, sommelier at chef Jean-Paul Jeunet in Arbois, she faithfully followed this path. The sometimes whimsical names of her vintages are inspired sometimes by musical art (Dorabella, Zerline), sometimes by the numerous plots of land that make up her vineyard (En Curon, Les Corvées, En Poussot, etc.), and do not disdain a pun from time to time. Likewise, the labels adorned with happy and salacious little gnomes are a signature of the estate. As for the grape varieties, they are the classics of the Jura: Poulsard, Trousseau, Pinot Noir for the reds, and Chardonnay, Savagnin for the whites. Alongside her Arbois wines, Alice has created a business selling "on the vine" grapes (Ecocert certified) with her winegrower friends in the region. Natural, committed, joyful and highly drinkable, Alice Bouvot's wines are all the more sought-after as the vintages, produced in plot-by-plot mode, appear, disappear and reappear depending on the vintage and inspiration.

Saint Romain Sous Roche Rouge 2018,

Domaine de Chassorney
The olfactory bouquet of this Saint-Romain "Sous Roche" offers notes of morello cherry and sweeter red fruits such as strawberry and pomegranate. On the palate, it displays superb structure, well-rounded tannins, and lovely notes of rustic, earthy red and black fruits. There is plenty of mid-palate concentration, aromas, energy, and length. The wine blossoms beautifully in the glass. This Saint-Romain "Sous Roche" is a pure Pinot Noir from a plot with a steep, south-southeast-facing terroir located between 280 and 400 meters above sea level in the Saint-Romain appellation. The soils are primarily marl, limestone, and clay. The grapes, from fifty-year-old vines, macerate in whole bunches. The aging is approximately one year in barrels.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for some time as a wine broker before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura, Languedoc, and elsewhere. At his farm, the soil and vines are worked as naturally as possible: regular horse-drawn ploughing, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are tended according to biodynamic principles: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper, and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.