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Borgonon Granate Red 2006,
Borgoñón Granate is an organic and natural red wine from Andalusia made from Pinot Noir. Classified as Vino de Mesa (table wine), it is vinified by Cortijo Barranco Oscuro. As its name suggests, it draws inspiration from Burgundy. This 2006, which has had time to reflect, is one of the best vintages of this cuvée.
Vinification
This wine comes from Pinot Noir vines planted at an altitude of 1,280 meters on schist soils. The wine is aged for one year in old barrels.
Tasting
Borgoñón Granate is a beautifully atypical wine that displays remarkable density while being relatively clear and not very concentrated (a reference to Burgundy). Intense red fruits, cherries, melted and velvety tannins, and a long and seductive smoky finish. It ages well. Great balance, melted tannins, pair it with a beautiful grilled prime rib or Spanish canned fish. A pata negra ham? Certainly, it's a compatriot.
Learn more about Cortijo Barranco Oscuro
Manuel Valenzuela cultivates the highest vines in the world (1,368 meters), in Andalusia, on the Sierra Contraviesa. Barranco oscuro means "dark valley," a reminder of the original site of the property, which was moved at the end of the 19th century after the phylloxera crisis. In 1979, the estate was taken over by Manuel, who decided to use natural methods in preference to those of modern oenology.
A drop of 1,400 meters
At first, he bought grapes, but his goal was to replant vines. Currently, the twelve hectares of Cortijo Barranco Oscuro extend over a drop of almost 1,400 meters. On a poor, dry, schistose terroir, two localities concentrate the plots: Cerro Las Monjas at the very top and Hoyo y Cerro de Las Gayumbas lower down, near the winery buildings.
High-altitude wines
Strong thermal contrasts explain the freshness of the wines, produced without the addition of exogenous yeasts and without inputs in the vineyard or cellar. Although the estate is not certified organic due to the disillusionment that fraud in this area has brought Manuel, his estate is a member of the Spanish Association of Natural Wine Producers. His wines are straightforward and clean, without compromise: they give joy through the seriousness of the work that was necessary to produce them.
Vin de France Syrah Red 2022,
This pure Syrah red wine from the Rhône Valley, organic and natural (Ecocert certified), is classified as a Vin de France. It asserts itself with a noble simplicity, typical of the wines of Domaine des Miquettes, produced on schist and granite soils. Its full name is: Biou une canou que té fara dé bé (“drink a cannon that will do you good”).
Vinification
Made from vines planted in Ardèche, on plots with light soils of black mica granite, schist and gneiss on a granite base, this natural Syrah ferments on the skins in terracotta containers and is aged for six months.
Tasting
Less dense and less full-bodied than the Saint-Joseph from Domaine des Miquettes, this This organic and natural Syrah is loaded with black fruits, blackcurrant, red fruits (wild strawberry), notes of tobacco and leather. The red fruits noticeable on the nose give way to a velvety, peppery and raspberry palate. Pair it with stews, red meats and game. It is also made for black truffle and we imagine it perfectly with a cassoulet.
Learn more about Domaine des Miquettes
Domaine des Miquettes, in the Saint-Joseph appellation (Ardèche), is run by Paul Estève and Chrystelle Vareille, who are passionate about Georgian winemaking techniques. At the heart of this centuries-old viticulture is the kvevri, the buried jar where the entire winemaking process takes place. They also have unburied tinajas (Spanish jars) for fermentation and maceration, the kvevris being used for aging. No sulfites are added to the wines of Domaine des Miquettes. The astringency of the tannins is polished by the terracotta, which produces a velvety texture, a fruity and supple substance.
The Estate
Paul Estève learned his trade with René-Jean Dard and François Ribo, two great figures of natural wine in the Rhône Valley. With Chrystelle, he gradually rebuilt the family estate until it reached 4.3 hectares. The plots, located between 300 and 450 meters above sea level, rest on a granite base with light mica and gneiss soils. The agriculture is organic (Ecocert certified) and biodynamic. The soils are worked by horse or winch and pickaxe, and the harvest is manual. No chemical inputs are added to the vineyard work or winemaking.
Ichigo Ichie Red 2022,
Ichigo Ichie is an organic and natural red-rosé wine (a "blouge" we would say) from the Rhône Valley (Ardèche, Saint-Joseph terroir) certified organic by Écocert. It is produced by Paul Estève and Chrystelle Vareille of Domaine des Miquettes, and the name of the cuvée pays tribute to one of their Japanese collaborators who recently passed away. The expression ichigo ichie means "a unique moment in life."
Vinification
Made without additives or added sulfites, unfiltered, Ichigo Ichie is a blend of all the grape varieties grown on the estate: Gamay, Marsanne, Roussanne, Syrah and Viognier, on granite and loess soils. This organic and natural wine from the Rhône Valley is aged for one year in vats.
Tasting
Ichigo Ichie can be consumed as a light red or a full-bodied rosé; its exotic notes are very seductive. It is recommended to drink it chilled. This additive-free wine will accompany all products from the land and the sea. Other "blouges", if you appreciate this type of rosé which leans towards red (or the other way around), can be discovered on our site: Susucaru Rosato from Frank Cornelissen, a classic from Etna, or L’Arroseur by Vinilibre.
Learn more about Domaine des Miquettes
Domaine des Miquettes, in the Saint-Joseph appellation (Ardèche), is run by Paul Estève and Chrystelle Vareille, who are passionate about Georgian winemaking techniques. At the heart of this centuries-old viticulture is the kvevri, the buried jar where the entire winemaking process takes place. They also have unburied tinajas (Spanish jars) for fermentation and maceration, while kvevris are used for aging. No sulfites are added to the wines of Domaine des Miquettes. The astringency of the tannins is polished by the terracotta, which produces a velvety texture, a fruity and supple substance.
The Estate
Paul Estève learned his trade from René-Jean Dard and François Ribo, two great figures of natural wine in the Rhône Valley. With Chrystelle, he gradually rebuilt the family estate until it reached 4.3 hectares. The plots, located between 300 and 450 meters above sea level, rest on a granite base with light mica and gneiss soils. The agriculture is organic (Ecocert certification) and biodynamic. The soils are worked by horse or winch and pickaxe, and the harvest is manual. No chemical inputs are added to the vineyard work and winemaking.
Vino Rosso Red 2018,
Corva Gialla
Vino Rosso, simply named, can be considered the emblematic red of Azienda Corva Gialla. Red fruits, freshness, mineral and earthy notes, tertiary aromas, spices, and tobacco: this is how we can summarize the profile of this 100% Sangiovese with the Vino da Tavola (table wine) designation. With a few years of bottle age, this 2018 offers beautiful notes of evolution and a pronounced but not excessive body. The richness, due to a high content of natural sugars during fermentation, and the polyphenolic maturity are remarkable, as well as the balance between velvety and tannicity, lightness and body, roundness and acidity. On the nose, notes of spices such as cinnamon, black pepper and fennel; on the palate, the wine is full-bodied and red fruits dominate: ripe cherry, raspberry and strawberry. Black fruits and plum are not left out, and delicious aromas of dried fruits (prune, fig) combine with spices on the finish. Vino Rosso is a classic Sangiovese from old and newer vines planted at 450 meters above sea level on a west-facing plot with volcanic soils. The harvest is destemmed. A starter culture is made from a small proportion of grapes, while the rest is directly pressed and added directly to the starter culture. The wine rests in fiberglass vats until bottling in March.
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Azienda Corva Gialla ("yellow crow") is a wine estate in Lazio, Italy, located on the edge of Umbria in the Alta Tuscia Viterbese. A volcanic region considered one of the most beautiful in Italy and characterized by its calanches, tall tuff rock formations delineating deep valleys carved by numerous rivers and streams. Corva Gialla is located in Lubriano, opposite Cività di Bagnoregio. Alta Tuscia is a breeding ground for young winemaking talents dedicated to nature who are enhancing these historically neglected lands. Founded in 2017, the estate has four hectares cultivated by Beatrice Arweiler, originally from another wine-growing region, between the Rhine and the Moselle. The new owner also planted an olive grove (Frantoio and Leccino varieties) and developed the estate for mixed farming and livestock production. The vines were planted with the help of Gian Marco Antonuzzi of the Le Coste estate. The friable volcanic soil lends itself beautifully to viticulture and the planting of grape varieties such as Grechetto d'Umbria, Trebbiano, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and Ciliegiolo. The estate's wines are quintessentially Italian, meaning they are crafted primarily for enjoyment. They are straightforward, deep, and easy to drink, expressing the strong minerality of their soils.
Une Autre Histoire Du Vin - Book
Tout Le Monde Sait Déguster - Book
Le Vin Nature Au-Delà Des Modes - Book
Magnum MC Macabeu Sparkling White 2019
Partida Creus
Warning, this is a rarity, so enjoy it: 2019 is apparently the only vintage of this sparkling wine, presented here in magnum. A veritable explosion of stone fruit (peach, apricot) and floral notes, with a magnificent texture, MC Macabeu is both a curiosity and a delectable and entirely serious wine: it comes from an old plot of Macabeu vines—well-known in Languedoc, Catalonia, and northeastern Spain—returned to a wild state and virtually abandoned before being reclaimed by Massimo and Antonella. The vines grow as vines, at an elevated position, with a limited production of small bunches. It’s a unique, concentrated, and fruity wine that grabs your soul and is a must-try. MC Macabeu, macerated on the skins for ten days, is a wine full of personality; it doesn’t mince its words.
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Partida Creus is an important estate, both in terms of winemaking and history – we’re talking about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont – and even from the Langhe region, where wine is well-known – first pursued careers as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug bit them, and soon they abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they find a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties that they passionately revive to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. For them, it is not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it is a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will never stop making from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to give their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: Partida Creus is a veritable conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties. It also grows moscatel, grenache, merlot and cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with the winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-variety wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the vintage. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush but always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, breathe life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.
SP Ancestral Sparkling White 2021
Partida Creus
This 100% Subirat Parent sparkling Catalan wine, classified as Vino de Mesa (table wine), has a pale and elegant color. On the nose, it is fresh and aromatic with notes of ripe white fruits, melon, and wildflowers. Agile and lively on the palate, fresh and straightforward, lemony and slightly saline, it offers a crisp texture that perfectly suits its effervescence. Subirat Parent, one of the oldest Catalan grape varieties and a close relative of Malvasia, remains rare even in its country of origin. The clay-limestone soil enhances its freshness and integrity. This wine is produced by direct pressing followed by alcoholic fermentation between 15 and 18°C in stainless steel vats with indigenous yeasts. This alcoholic fermentation ends in bottles where the wine rests for ten months on its fine lees before being marketed. Produced and vinified without sulfites or any other additives.
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Partida Creus is an important estate, both from a winemaking and historical perspective – we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont – and even from the Langhe region, where wine is well-known – first pursued careers as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug bit them, and soon they abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they found a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties, which they passionately revived to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. For them, it's not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it's a matter of taste and nature. Natural wines, which they will continue to make from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to give their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: it is a true conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties that Partida Creus cares for. Moscatel, Grenache, Merlot, and Cabernet (among others) are also grown here. Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-varietal wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the cuvée. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush but always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, breathe life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.
VY Ancestral Sparkling White 2015
Partida Creus
Finely sparkling, lively and fresh, creamy and full-bodied on the palate, this is a superb natural sparkling wine made from Vinyater (a traditional Catalan grape variety) that should be enjoyed, especially now that this magnum has aged a little and gained depth, having had time to develop the full richness of its fresh notes – white flowers, almonds, white fruits – and its magnificent length. This festive vintage, classified as a Vino de Mesa (table wine), will shine as an aperitif, for any celebration, and at the table with seafood, grilled white meats, sweetbreads, or a beautiful vol-au-vent financier. The vinyater harvest is manual; alcoholic fermentation takes place on the skins and with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel vats. The wine completes its fermentation for ten months in bottles on fine lees.
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Partida Creus is an important estate, both from a winemaking and historical perspective – we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont – and even from the Langhe region, where wine is well-known – first pursued careers as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug bit them, and they soon abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they find a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties that they passionately revive to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. For them, it is not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it is a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will never stop making from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to give their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: Partida Creus is a veritable conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties. It also grows moscatel, grenache, merlot and cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with the winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-variety wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the vintage. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush but always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, breathe life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.
Magnum XL Ancestral Sparkling White 2015
Partida Creus
This beautiful magnum elegantly bears its eight years of age: that's called age, and the notes of evolution that can be discerned add to its charm. These few years further strengthen its character while polishing the edges. Xarel·lo Ancestral, a smoky, deep, full-bodied, mineral, and explosive sparkling wine, is a true invitation to celebrate. The nose offers aromas of ripe white fruits—apple, pear, white peach—followed by mineral notes on the palate that form a framework for yeasty touches reminiscent of buttery pastries and fresh bread. Beautiful, straightforward, saline acidity. Very elegant, XL Xarel·lo Ancestral is a Vino de Mesa (table wine) that is highly drinkable and enjoyable. Made entirely from the native Catalan grape variety Xarel·lo, it is the result of hand-picking and direct pressing. The must is fermented in stainless steel vats using indigenous yeasts and finishes fermenting in bottles on fine lees for a minimum of ten months, without the slightest addition of sulfites.
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Partida Creus is an important estate, both in terms of winemaking and history – we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont – and even from the Langhe region, where wine is well-known – first pursued careers as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug bit them, and soon they abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they find a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties that they passionately revive to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. For them, it is not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it is a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will never stop making from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to give their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: Partida Creus is a veritable conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties. It also grows moscatel, grenache, merlot and cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with the winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-variety wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the vintage. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush but always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, breathe life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction."
Skin-Contact Rafling White 2021
Classified as a Vin de France, Skin Contact Rafling is a wine resulting from a fairly extensive skin maceration: hence the presence of "Skin Contact" on the label. "Rafling" is a play on words relating to the maceration on stems (whole bunches) and the name of the Riesling grape variety. It is a dense and robust wine that is both round and straightforward, elegant and full of personality. Our national Frédéric Cossard, as comfortable with Burgundian-style winemaking (but without additives) as with the multi-colored refinements of merchant winemaking, offers us here a Riesling from twenty-five-year-old biodynamic vines harvested in Alsace on clay-limestone soil. Maceration is three weeks in whole bunches. Don't worry too much about food and wine pairings, this one is made for all occasions and can even compete with dishes that we usually think are reserved for red wine. Its aging potential—at least ten years—is generous.
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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undistorted by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful wine-growing practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice which are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for a time as a wine broker before creating the domaine de Chassorney with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine merchant house and purchased organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais vintages. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular plowing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less “regional” bottles, Frédéric’s vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.
Grisou Rosé 2021
Belly Wine Experiment
Complex, refreshing, unusual, and delicious… A rosé, obviously, but with a fairly solid structure. One might guess from its name that it's a vin gris, and its color gives us the final hint. Grisou is a vin gris (therefore) quite typical of Belly Wine's experimental passion, since it is made from Carignan from the South and Pinot Gris from Heiligenstein (Alsace) grown on clay-siliceous soils. Two very different terroirs are united in one wine. Let's remember that Grisou, like Rosé, is a still wine with a pale color made from black grapes in short maceration. Here, it's a little more complicated since two-thirds of the grapes are directly pressed, the remaining third being crushed in whole bunches and macerated for four days. Disgorging takes place two months later. This wine is organically grown and has received no chemical inputs or sulfites, in the vineyard or in the cellar. As it plays on several levels, both light and straightforward, Grisou can allow for very wide pairings.
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Founded and run by Claire Sage and Aimé Duveau, located in Chanteuges (Haute-Loire), Belly Wine Experiment is as much an experiment as a winemaking business. The creative duo has it in spades: Claire is the sister of Daniel Sage, a fan of underwater wine aging but above all an importer of Catalan wines. Hence the presence of Catalan grape varieties in Belly Wine Experiment's blends, alongside Burgundy, Auvergne, and Jura grape varieties, readily found in the same bottle. Aimé is the son of Manu Duveau, a poet-winemaker from Auvergne, a former stonemason, and a great winemaker of local Gamays at his Domaine de l'Égrappille. The uniqueness of Belly Wine Experiment is the exoticism (in the literal sense) of the blends, with Xarel lo from Catalonia, for example, being able to sit alongside Gamay from Puy-de-Dôme with the utmost naturalness. The wines are made using semicarbonic maceration, without the addition of chemical additives or excessive manipulation in the cellar. The house is also known for its very high-quality, vinous perries.
BS Blanc de Sumoll White 2017
Partida Creus
Finely macerated, with a superb golden hue vering with orange, BS Blanc de Sumoll is made for the table and refined dishes. Vibrant and aromatic, it offers notes of citrus (grapefruit, orange, lemon), rose, peach, apple, quince, garrigue (thyme, rosemary), and quince, with a rather saline finish. It is also mineral with notes of honey, leather, and stone. This still, sunny Blanc de Noirs, made from 100% white Sumoll (a grape variety that has become extremely rare in Catalonia) and produced directly from the press, is a historic cuvée, the first produced by Massimo and Antonella. This is a very rare wine that should not be missed when a few bottles appear.
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Partida Creus is an important estate, both from a winemaking and historical perspective – we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont – and even from the Langhe region, where wine is well-known – first pursued careers as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug bit them, and soon they abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they found a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties that they passionately revived to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. On their part, it’s not just a matter of saving heritage, no: it’s a matter of taste and nature. Natural wines, which they will continue to make from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravelly, poor and poorly irrigated lands, where the vines suffer to give their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic, entirely manual and natural viticulture in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, ceciat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: it is a true conservatory of the native Catalan grape varieties that Partida Creus cares for. Moscatel, Grenache, Merlot, and Cabernet (among others) are also grown here. Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-varietal wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the cuvée. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush but always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, breathe life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.
Bianco White 2012
A delicate amber color for a wine with an elegant and lively nose that lingers on the palate with notes of yellow fruits, enhanced here in the magnum format. This pleasant Italian macerated white, simply called "white" (bianco), is made from a blend of Procanico and Malvasia grapes grown on the volcanic soils of Lazio, on the borders of Tuscany and Umbria. After a late harvest, entirely by hand, the grapes are lightly crushed by foot and then macerated for two weeks in truncated French oak barrels. After pressing, the must is decanted for a few days before slowly completing its fermentation in tuns for about a year. The wine is then aged for seven months in barrels at the bottom of the cellar, in a natural cave, before being bottled. “This wine may not change the course of winemaking history,” writes one Italian commentator, “but it managed to give me a very good time, and that’s what matters. Believe me: we desperately need wines like this… In the glass, a beautiful yellow tending towards amber, opaque and rich. On the nose, a crackle of yellow fruits and volcanic sparks, and a beautiful acidity. After a few minutes, Bianco becomes sensorially capricious on the palate, like a chameleon, its beautiful acidity supporting the structure and highlighting its complexity. Almond, peach, hazelnut, yellow flowers, Annurca apple… Every moment in the glass reveals something new. »
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The Le Coste azienda is located in Italy, in Gradoli, in the province of Viterbo, in the northeast of Lazio. The estate was created in 2004 by Clémentine Bouveron and Gian Marco Antonuzzi. Clémentine is an oenologist and has already worked at Domaine Hauvette and Trévallon, in the Alpilles, as well as in Sauternes, at Château de Rayne-Vigneau. When Clémentine and Gian Marco took over the estate, it covered three hectares at an altitude of 450 meters and appeared as an abandoned garden of vines and olive trees. They recreated it in a traditional polycultural way with agroforestry, livestock farming, and viticulture to produce wines without additives and without deviation. The surface area has since grown to approximately fourteen hectares. The terroir overlooks Lake Bolsena. Its volcanic nature explains the lightness of its recently formed soils: lapilli tuffs, volcanic ash in varied layers, rich in minerals. This soil, very poor in organic matter, must be amended, and natural caves enlarged by older generations serve as cellars. Shared between vines, olive trees, elms, century-old oaks and wild chestnut trees, the site is a marvel of plant diversity. The biodynamic methods used at the estate include manure compost, horn silica and herbal teas that strengthen the defenses of the vines, which are trained in the traditional way, in low goblet training with a stake. The grape varieties are numerous, indigenous and ancient, reproduced by mass selection in the old vines still present on the estate. The wines express the local terroir and a strong Italian identity, with very varied profiles.
Gamay Rouge 2019,
Domaine de l'Octavin
Whichever way you look at it, Mayga Gamay is very Gamay: fruity, juicy, with pleasant notes of raspberry, blackberry, licorice, and cherry. Good acidity, lovely minerality, plenty of aroma, and a suppleness that asserts itself in the glass. Mayga Gamay also offers a slight sparkle that awakens the dead. The grapes come from Pierre Boyat's estate in Leynes, Beaujolais, and macerate for twenty days in whole bunches.
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"You don't need anything," says Alice Bouvot, winemaker at Domaine de l'Octavin, "just a grape that feels good in its skin." Everything is said in favor of natural wine; it's a perfect description. Established in 2005, Domaine d'Alice is located in Arbois, in the Jura wine region, often described as the most organic vineyard in France. The practice of producing – among other things – oxidative wines is a good preparation for nature, as this type of wine does not allow any chemical additives and especially no sulfites. It is a secret of this magnificent region. Originally spread over two hectares, the estate, managed entirely biodynamically (Demeter) since 2010, has expanded through the gradual acquisition of plots and now covers seven hectares. An accomplished musician and passionate music lover, Alice aims to apply her musical sensitivity to the wines she makes. She draws a parallel between the technical perfection of conventional wines, which risks excluding feeling, while "a musician who does not know music theory and plays with his guts creates emotion." For her, living wine is like this: instinctive, improvised, emotional. Introduced to natural wine by Stéphane Planche, sommelier at chef Jean-Paul Jeunet in Arbois, she faithfully followed this path. The sometimes whimsical names of her vintages are inspired sometimes by musical art (Dorabella, Zerline), sometimes by the numerous plots of land that make up her vineyard (En Curon, Les Corvées, En Poussot, etc.), and do not disdain a pun from time to time. Likewise, the labels adorned with happy and salacious little gnomes are a signature of the estate. As for the grape varieties, they are the classics of the Jura: Poulsard, Trousseau, Pinot Noir for the reds, and Chardonnay, Savagnin for the whites. Alongside her Arbois wines, Alice has created a business selling "on the vine" grapes (Ecocert certified) with her winegrower friends in the region. Natural, committed, joyful and highly drinkable, Alice Bouvot's wines are all the more sought-after as the vintages, produced in plot-by-plot mode, appear, disappear and reappear depending on the vintage and inspiration.
Rubaiyat Red 2009
Elegantly aged in magnum format for over thirteen years, this is a classic from the Barranco Oscuro estate. It offers a full-bodied, tannic, and dry profile, rich in mature notes of black and red fruits (blackcurrant, raspberry). Leather and earth also dominate, accentuated and enhanced by aging. Smooth, roasted, and nuanced notes of chocolate and spices, and superb balance. Rubaiyat is an allusion and homage to the Persian poet Omar Khayyam, a polymath who wrote a poetic cycle entitled Rubaiyat in the 11th century, glorifying mystical and physical intoxication. The Persian origin of the Syrah grape variety, from which this wine is entirely composed, was not for nothing in this choice of name. Rubaiyat comes from Syrah vines planted in 1996 at an altitude of approximately 1,290 meters and facing south on schist and clay soils. The harvest, manual, carefully sorted and destemmed, macerates in stainless steel vats and ferments with indigenous yeasts. The vinification is naturally controlled by the coolness of autumn nights in the mountains. Malolactic fermentation followed by aging takes place for sixteen months in old barrels. No sulfites are added, the wine is unclarified, and lightly filtered at bottling.
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Between the Sierra Nevada and the sea, in Andalusia, the Sierra Contraviesa boasts the highest vineyard in Europe (1,368 meters) at its summit. Barranco oscuro means "dark valley" in Spanish, but this valley is part of the past; it was the original site of the property, but it was moved at the end of the 19th century, when phylloxera put an end to a period of intense winemaking and mass production. In 1979, the estate was taken over by Manuel Valenzuela, who decided to work it using natural methods and without resorting to modern oenology methods. Initially, he bought grapes, but his goal was to replant vines, which he did between 1982 and the mid-1990s. Currently, the twelve hectares of Cortijo Barranco Oscuro extend over a drop of almost 1,400 meters. On a poor, dry, schistose terroir, two localities concentrate the plots: Cerro Las Monjas at the very top and Hoyo y Cerro de Las Gayumbas lower down, near the winery buildings. Strong thermal contrasts explain the freshness of the wines, produced without the addition of exogenous yeasts and without any inputs in the vineyard or cellar. Although the estate is not certified organic due to the disillusionment Manuel suffered from fraud in this area, his estate is a member of the Spanish Association of Natural Wine Producers. His wines are straightforward and clean, without compromise: they are wines that give joy through the seriousness of the work that went into their production.
Rum Prélude Batch 10, 49.8° - 70cl
Prélude Batch 10 is a single-variety rum made from 100% red sugar cane. It is the result of a skillful blend of several vintages selected by the cellar master before aging in French oak barrels. It combines the aromatic palettes of different rums to create an unparalleled harmony. It is left at its original strength, without coloring or filtration: its alcohol content can therefore vary slightly depending on the edition. On the palate, a hint of caramel combines with the aromatic richness of the cane juice. Rich and fiery, but not lacking in freshness, this Prélude Batch 10 rum is designed for both initiation and connoisseur pleasure.
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The Longueteau distillery, located in Capesterre-Belle-Eau (Guadeloupe), is the oldest distillery on the island still in operation. It has the distinction of being entirely self-sufficient in sugar cane production, which it uses to obtain its magnificent terroir agricultural rums. Agricultural rum, we should point out, is made from pure sugar cane juice, unlike many other Caribbean rums, which are produced from cane molasses. It is a specialty of the French West Indies. The estate is currently in the hands of François Longueteau, a distiller since 1979. Production is, as it was originally, artisanal and traditional, but the sugarcane terroirs are developed using plot-by-plot methods—this is Longueteau's unique feature, the first distillery on the island to adopt this approach. Two varieties of sugarcane, blue cane and red cane, are cultivated, as well as fruits from the Guadeloupe region. Longueteau rums and the resulting preparations (punches, shrubberies, etc.) are fine, aromatic, deep, and fragrant.
