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The genesis of wine is often traced back to the seventh millennium BCE, in the Caucasus, where wine was aged in qvevris (or kvrevris), large jars of 3500 liters buried in the ground. Traditionally, wine has always been what we now consider organic, but the term "organic wine" appeared at the end of the 20th century, in reaction to the hyper-industrialization of wine. Indeed, it was in a context of wine globalization after the Second World War that wine production began to flood the global market with wines full of additives and synthetic chemicals to achieve higher yields and more standardized production, known as conventional wine. Organic wine is therefore a logical response to conventional wine; it aims to be more environmentally friendly and adheres to strict specifications governing wine production.
Organic wine is therefore a wine (red wine, white wine, rosé wine, orange wine, sparkling wine) made from organic farming. Organic wine first met the European specifications of 1991, which governed the principles of organic farming only in the vineyard. It was not until 2012 that new European specifications were published, this time stipulating organic farming regulations also in the cellar.
As mentioned above, wine from organic farming has theoretically always existed, but it is only since 2012 that it has been regulated and controlled by strict specifications in both the vineyard and the cellar. To summarize its obligations, organic wine must be made from certified organic grapes, as well as the sugar, must, or alcohol used during chaptalization and mutage. Also, its specifications prohibit certain winemaking practices such as de-alcoholization, electrodialysis, or thermovinification. The European Union also mandates a sulfite level 50 milligrams per liter lower than conventional wines, i.e., a maximum of 100 milligrams per liter for organic red wines and a maximum of 150 milligrams per liter for organic white wines.
The organic sector is booming, representing nearly 10% of global vineyard area in 2021 with growth of +3.2% compared to 2020 and +78% in 10 years. France is a leader in this field, hosting nearly a third of the world's organic vineyards, followed by its Italian and Spanish neighbors. But organic farming is not only beneficial for the environment; it is also a driver of social well-being. According to a study by Riccardo Vecchio, the organic wine industry creates 50% more jobs than the conventional wine industry, offering more stable jobs with a third of certified farms employing one or more permanent employees, compared to one in five for uncertified farms.
What are the different organic labels recognized in France?
It is INAO that delegates organic farming control and certification activities to independent and approved certification bodies, including Agrocert, Bureau Veritas Certification France, Certipaq bio, Certis, Certisud, Ecocert, Qualisud, Bureau Alpes Contrôles. Every year, certified vineyards are audited by one of these bodies, and in case of irregularity, a unique catalog of measures is applied. A label project to identify farms in the conversion phase (over one or more years) is also under study.
However, for some winemakers, the AB label is too flexible and allows for farming that claims to be organic but has some industrial deviations, notably with the support of large retailers who are trying to seize these new market opportunities. Therefore, two new labels have emerged: Nature & Progrès and Bio Cohérence have stricter specifications, including a ban on sales through mass distribution channels, a measure whose implementation aims to promote short supply chains.
It should be noted that there are many other labels categorizing organic wines that have stricter specifications. Demeter and Biodyvin regulate biodynamic wines or wines from biodynamic winemaking, an esoteric viticulture that considers the vine as a living ecosystem with more rigorous legislation on operations carried out in the cellar. Stricter than biodynamics (or biodynamic wine), the Vin Méthode Nature label proposes a charter for natural wine with an emphasis on low addition of sulfites in the wine and the use of indigenous yeasts. Terra Vitis and Haute Valeur Environnementale are two labels that promote sustainable development, through the preservation of biodiversity, phytosanitary strategies, and fertilization and irrigation management.
Finally, it should also be remembered that many winemakers refuse to be categorized under any label because it would mean denying the principle of the agricultural counter-model: emancipating oneself from standardized norms, not fitting into boxes. This can be seen as a way for the winemaker to assert themselves as unique and with a strong identity.
How is consuming organic wine better for the environment?
One of the great strengths of organic winemakers is their ability to bring life back to the soil and the surrounding flora and fauna. In France, viticulture accounts for 20% of agricultural pesticide use, compared to only 3% of agricultural land. Organic viticulture therefore emerges as an ecological hope: little to no use of phytosanitary products, recourse to organic fertilizers and compost, a reduction of up to one-third of CO2 emissions compared to conventional wine. With better respect for the vine, there is on the one hand a rebirth of the soil, which slows down erosion and promotes subterranean flora and fauna, and on the other hand, a rebirth of pollinators (bees, butterflies...) thanks to an increasing presence of life between the vines (hedges, wild plants, shrubs...).
Organic viticulture also allows for better water management, notably with less water stress (more organic matter in the soil allows for better water retention) and especially less artificial irrigation (the resilience of the vine is preferred). Each cuvée, each vintage, each bottle, in short, each wine from organic farming is therefore directly influenced by climatic hazards, which makes it possible to produce a wine (red wine, white wine, rosé wine, orange wine, sparkling wine) with its own distinct and marked personality.
How is consuming organic wine better for health?
No one can deny that alcohol, and therefore wine, is dangerous for health and should be consumed in moderation. Nevertheless, where conventional wine may contain pesticide residues, additives, and chemicals, organic wine reduces the presence of these harmful substances. It is also full of living bacteria and yeasts that can have benefits for the microbiota, including improved blood vessel function, improved protection of brain cells against cognitive damage, reduced risk of certain types of cancer (especially breast cancer), and better digestion thanks to the production of digestive enzymes stimulated by wine.
Another undeniable health benefit of organic wine is the reduction of sulfites, preservatives widely used in conventional wine to stabilize it. For an equivalent amount consumed, an organic wine will cause fewer headaches the next day than a conventional wine!
What are the advantages of organic farming for winemakers?
When we talk about organic wine, we often think about the health of our planet or our body, but we think much less about the health of our winemakers. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon to observe cases of cancer or respiratory problems among winegrowers, due to synthetic chemicals used such as pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, or fertilizers. Conversely, organic wine aims to drastically reduce these substances, so organic viticulture is beneficial for those who work the vines daily.
Although organic farming requires more physical and organizational effort, it exposes winemakers to significantly fewer toxic products. The use of alternative methods is also beneficial from a psychological point of view, as some producers state that the quality of the organic wine produced offers and brings a deep meaning to their profession, and according to a virtuous circle, this helps maintain a respectful, attentive, and intuitive relationship with their wine work.
But organic farming is also synonymous with short supply chains and therefore support for local economies with a win-win situation for all: the consumer has full traceability of the bottles consumed, and the producer has an income that better reflects the reality of their work. A virtuous system is thus created where the winemaker has more financial resources, allowing them to experiment with new things (new grape varieties, for example) and thus increase consumer satisfaction.
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1075 products
1075 products
The One Beer 2021,
Cyclic Beer Farm
Animal, funky, racy, full of character, with a spicy touch and a clean, precise bitter finish, The One is a direct reference to James Brown: not only to his song "She's The One" but also to his concept of "The One": the absolute beat, the rhythmic energy capable of giving the ideal funky coloring to his music. Exactly as brett (wild yeasts) give Cyclic Beer Farm beers in general and this one in particular their desired funky note. The One was the first funky beer made by Cyclic, in 2016, and it is their only saison-style beer not aged in barrels. Instead of aging it in wood, as is the case with most of their funky saisons, they brew, ferment, and flavor in stainless steel tanks to promote the pure expression of the yeasts. The One is 5.8% ABV.
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Cyclic Beer Farm is a duo of Barcelona friends, Alberto and Joshua. Based in the Catalan capital, they have two sides to their business: beer (Cyclic Beer) and wine (Cyclic Wine). The beers, inspired by the Belgian model, are available in surprising and colorful ranges where expertly measured yeast cocktails and house brews combine with varied macerations of fruits, vegetables, herbs and grape marc from traditional Catalan varieties, the latter taken after the fermentation of their wines - because the second part is the wine, made exclusively from native Catalan grape varieties. Packaged in 75 cl bottles so that everyone has something to satisfy their thirst, the beers play between classicism and flights of inspiration, in a contrasting and creative way, Catalan style, without forgetting to dare the wine beer, of course. Based on classic principles and a Belgian fermentation model, the two brewers-winemakers Joshua and Alberto play with ingredients, aromas, and macerations, between cereals, fruits, vegetables, and grape skins from Catalan grape varieties, to achieve flavors reminiscent of the Obni (unidentified drinkable object). Whether they assert themselves through balance or a certain controlled dissonance, these beers will never leave you indifferent and will reveal their full potential during the summer heat, served well chilled (like their creators).
Frédéric Cossard - Domaine de Chassorney
Magnum Saint Romain Sous la Velle Red 2020
14000
€140,00
Unit price perFrédéric Cossard - Domaine de Chassorney
Magnum Saint Romain Sous la Velle Red 2020
14000
€140,00
Unit price perMagnum Saint Romain Sous la Velle Red 2020,
A bright and intense ruby color, a nose of small red fruits with a dominant cherry, this is a remarkable Saint-Romain from the Sous la Velle plot. The palate is lively, fleshy, and fruity, marked by some notes of sweet and peppery spices. The tannins are vigorous, yet fine and silky. The Saint-Romain appellation is located at altitude, on steep terrain. It is ideal for producing lively, lively, mineral, and very flavorful wines. Entirely Pinot Noir, this wine comes from a plot whose sloping terroir, facing south-southeast, is located between 280 and 400 meters above sea level. The soils are mainly marl, limestone, and clay. The grapes macerate in whole bunches. Aging is approximately one year in barrels.
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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked as a wine broker for some time before creating the Domaine de Chassorney with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy since vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his home, the soil and vines are worked as naturally as possible: regular horse-drawn ploughing, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to biodynamic principles: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Reds or whites, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.
SM White 2017
"Anthony Tortul loves old vineyards: he devotes his life to finding and vinifying them. Just as there are landless shepherds, he can be defined as a landless winegrower, in other words, a wine merchant whose area of activity extends throughout Languedoc and, eastward, as far as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in search of the best terroirs. Born in Foix, with six years of experience as a viticultural technician and oenologist in various vineyards in the south of France, he created La Sorga in 2008. His enthusiasm leads him on a path filled with favorites, and each one These favorites is a vineyard. The result is a stunning mosaic of natural, lively and spirited wines, which reinvents itself each year with around thirty cuvées per vintage. Few winemakers can include such a variety of grape varieties on their menu: the whole of southern France is there with muscats, grenaches, picpoul, mauzac, carignan, cinsault, marsanne, alicante, braucol, duras, viognier, len-de-l’el, and all the rest.
This white wine comes from Villafranchian terroirs on a basalt base located near Pézenas, in the upper Hérault valley. The name SM, formed from the initials of “sauvignon-marsanne”, refers to the blend that makes up this wine: sixty percent marsanne (vines aged twenty-five years) and forty percent sauvignon blanc (vines ten years old). Marsanne is pressed directly and the must is used to macerate the Sauvignon in whole bunches for sixty days. The aging, eight months, takes place in vats. The nose evokes bergamot, beeswax, fennel and dried apricot. The palate is taut, endowed with an incredible sapidity. Exotic fruits, mango in particular. A natural companion for mature or blue cheeses, without forgetting the very creamy goat cheeses of the South. It will keep for about ten years.
Natural wine without added sulfites.
Rye whiskey, The Helsinki Distilling Co.
You don't need to live in Kentucky to make a good rye whiskey: the three makers of the Helsinki Distilling Company—two Finns, one Irish—do it very well. Rye is, in Finnish tradition, a symbol of power and vitality; it was therefore only natural that they pay homage to it. This three-year-aged whiskey (47.5%, 70% Finnish rye, 30% Finnish barley) is a pure masterpiece, straightforward and controlled, with a nose of toasted rye, honey, and dark chocolate. Rich and deep on the palate, it offers notes of caramel, licorice, and spices, with a hint of coffee. A big favorite of the Culinaries team.
Belzebrut White 2018
Made from 100% Colombard from basalt soils in the Hérault Valley, this is a very pleasant natural sparkling wine. The grapes are pressed directly and the must is not settled. It is aged on slats for six months. The wine is bottled by gravity and disgorged by Antony. This wine has mineral and floral notes that are perfect as an aperitif or dessert. Aging potential: five years.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Pairs with: Cheeses, Desserts
Es d'aqui Danslezetoiles Red 2016
This blend of Braucol, Carignan, and Muscat grown on clay-limestone soils was vinified in amphorae. Notes of candied black fruit and leather complement the fruity and herbaceous notes, much to the delight of natural wine enthusiasts. Plenty of aromatic presence, character, and originality.
En Rouge et Noir Red 2015
En Rouge et Noir, a red wine from the Faugères AOC, is a blend of black, white, and gray Grenache grapes grown on schist soils in Cabrerolles. The grapes macerate in whole bunches for twenty-nine days in a near-infusion, then are aged in vats on total lees for nine months. Its sweet notes of citrus, rose, and pepper make it the perfect accompaniment to grilled meats, charcuterie, or peppery terrines. Its aging potential is ten years.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Goes with: Charcuterie, Terrines and pâtés, Grilled meats
Fond Cyprès - Rodolphe Ourliac et Laetitia Gianesini
Le Grenache du Bois Saint Jaume Red 2022
1900
€19,00
Unit price perFond Cyprès - Rodolphe Ourliac et Laetitia Gianesini
Le Grenache du Bois Saint Jaume Red 2022
1900
€19,00
Unit price perLe Grenache du Bois Saint Jaume Red 2022
Le Grenache du Bois Saint Jaume 2022 from the Fond Cyprès estate is a true ode to the terroir of Languedoc-Roussillon. This 100% Grenache Noir red wine, grown according to organic farming principles (Eurofeuille label), elegantly expresses the richness of its natural environment. Located in the Occitanie region, this vineyard is surrounded by woods on three sides, creating a microclimate conducive to the maturation of the 80-year-old vines that thrive on sandy soils.
Vinification and Aging
The vinification of this natural wine is carried out with a three-week maceration, followed by ten months of aging in vats. No oenological inputs are used and the fermentation relies exclusively on indigenous yeasts, thus guaranteeing a pure and authentic expression of Grenache Noir. Without filtration, this wine retains all its complexity and depth.
Tasting Notes
On tasting, Le Grenache du Bois Saint Jaume reveals an intense nose dominated by aromas of red fruits and typical notes of the garrigue surrounding the vineyard. On the palate, the wine is velvety, with a beautiful length and a silky texture that testifies to the controlled aging. The structure is balanced, offering a freshness that enhances the fruity and spicy flavors of Grenache. This wine has the potential to age beautifully for over ten years.
Food and wine pairings
Ideal with grilled or sauced red meats, this wine also pairs perfectly with Mediterranean dishes. For optimal enjoyment, serve it at a temperature of 14 to 16 degrees after lightly decanting.
Fond Cyprès - Rodolphe Ourliac et Laetitia Gianesini
La Syrah de la Pinède Red 2022
1900
€19,00
Unit price perFond Cyprès - Rodolphe Ourliac et Laetitia Gianesini
La Syrah de la Pinède Red 2022
1900
€19,00
Unit price perLa Syrah de la Pinède Red 2022
La Syrah de la Pinède 2022 from Fond Cyprès is a true ode to nature and the terroir of Languedoc-Roussillon. Produced on a north-facing plot surrounded by a pine forest, this cuvée embodies a perfect balance between freshness and concentration. The rich, fresh clay-limestone soils allow the 15-year-old Syrah vines to develop a beautiful maturity until the end of September, giving the wine an elegant structure and expressive aromas.
Vinification and Aging: Respect for the Terroir
The grapes are harvested by hand, then carefully destemmed before a gentle three-week maceration. Traditional vinification respects the grapes, using indigenous yeasts and without the addition of additives or filtration, thus highlighting the authenticity of this natural wine. The wine is aged in 42 hl wooden vats for 10 months, preserving the wine's memory and allowing it to develop a subtle depth and complexity.
Tasting: An Elegant and Expressive Syrah
On the nose, La Syrah de la Pinède reveals captivating aromas of red fruits and black olives, distinctive signs of its Mediterranean terroir. On the palate, we find this same freshness, due to the northern exposure of the vine, combined with a beautiful concentration reminiscent of the generosity of the southern sun. Its silky texture and fine tannins offer a persistent and balanced length on the palate.
Food and Wine Pairing: Ideal Companion to Roast Meats
This red wine pairs wonderfully with roast meats, revealing all its aromatic richness and delicate structure. Serve it between 14 and 16 degrees, and don't hesitate to decant it to release all its aromatic complexity. With an aging potential of more than 10 years, this wine will evolve magnificently in the cellar.
Respect for the Environment: An Organic Commitment
Certified organic farming (Eurofeuille), La Syrah de la Pinède 2022 embodies Fond Cyprès' commitment to environmentally friendly viticulture. Without synthetic products or industrial yeasts, this wine is the pure expression of its terroir.
Les Bonnes Quilles White 2022,
Les Bonnes Quilles is an organic and natural white wine from the Gaillac terroir, produced by the Bois-Moisset estate. This new vintage, Les Bonnes Quilles, is aptly named. This white maceration wine, classified as Vin de France, is a marvel of balance and will seduce you with its personality.
Vinification
Les Bonnes Quilles blanc is a blend of three white grape varieties: Sauvignon and Muscadelle (the majority) and Len-de-l’el (Loin-de-l’œil), a Gaillac grape variety named for the length of its stalk, at 10%. The vines grow on the clay-limestone molasse soils of the first slopes of Gaillac and the grapes are harvested by hand. The Sauvignon and Muscadelle are directly pressed and rest in vats, while Loin-de-l’œil, destemmed, macerates for eight weeks on the skins. The two vats are blended for bottling.
Tasting
Les Bonnes Quilles, the aptly named. An engaging white wine, opulent yet dry, where the macerated far-of-the-eye plays the role of spice. At once fresh, robust and pleasant, Les Bonnes Quilles is superbly aromatic on the nose and in the mouth. A wine for friends and good food, with a sunny and convivial profile. It will accept solid pairings, nothing scares it: roasted white meats, fine poultry, grilled fish or fish in sauce, or country cuisine (cassoulet, stews, carbonades, etc.).
Learn more about the Bois-Moisset estate
In the heart of the oldest vineyard in France — that of Gaillac, in the Tarn — Sylvie Ledran, Philippe Maffre and their son Hippolyte watch over their Bois-Moisset estate, a wine-growing property associated with a mixed crop-livestock activity, all in organic farming. Gaillac is famous for its many ancient indigenous grape varieties, and its wine-growing heritage is uniquely rich.
Cows and Vines
The Bois-Moisset estate is also home to a herd of old local breed cows, and guest rooms are available during the summer months. It is in this small rural paradise that natural wines typical of their origin and terroir are born, on fifteen hectares of boulbènes, gravelly and sandy-loam soils carried by the Tarn for thousands of years.
Indigenous Grape Varieties
The grape varieties are dominated by Syrah and Duras, but the wines of the Bois-Moisset estate reflect the ampelographic richness of the Gaillac region (braucol, prunelart, loin-de-l’œil, mauzac, braucol, ondenc, etc.). The red wines are crisply fruity, concentrated but with smooth and delicate tannins, the whites have character and the pet’nat’s are particularly tasty.
Cep Bragelogne Blanc Champagne Brut
Eric Collinet
This Cep cuvée is an organic, biodynamic, and natural white brut champagne (Ecocert, AB, and Eurofeuille certifications) made from 100% Pinot Noir, from the vines of the Éric Collinet estate in Côte des Bar, the southernmost region of Champagne. Since 2014, this estate has been fully certified organic.
Terroir and Vinification
The Pinot Noir vines grow on Kimmeridgian clay-limestone soils, bringing minerality and tension to the wines. Harvesting is done by hand. The wines are from the 2018 harvest. Dosage: 3.8 g/l.
An all-terrain champagne
Lively, fresh, and flavorful, this champagne, balanced between minerality and fruitiness, is a complete wine, ready for all combinations and pairings. The nose offers fresh white fruits, apple, and lychee, confirmed on the palate with a superb integration of all the sensations. Great evolving complexity. Pair it with a good meal or fine tapas. We also imagine a marriage of love with raw fish, smoked scallops, smoked salmon, caviar … Enjoy it between 10 and 12 °C.
Learn more about Éric Collinet champagnes
Limousin established in Southern Champagne “for the love of the land and the king of wines”, Éric Collinet devotes himself to viticulture on his land in Les Riceys, in Côte des Bar, combining it with a truffle cultivation activity (Burgundy truffle, Tuber uncinatum). Whether it's vines or mycorrhizal trees, Éric and his wife Martine share the same love of nature and biodiversity in their estate.
Champagne Agroforestry
On sloping land, planting trees in the vines helps to anchor them and compensate for water loss during increasingly hot summers. The dominant grape variety is Pinot Noir, a regional tradition, with Chardonnay making up 20% of the total. The entire estate (2.5 hectares of vines) has been managed organically (AB, Eurofeuille, Ecocert) and biodynamically since 2014.
The charm of the Côte des Bar
A remarkable freshness and salinity, a well-known signature of the Kimmeridgian limestone of the Côte des Bar, the "emerging" region of Champagne. Domaine Collinet's champagnes are unanimously described as lively and fruity. These wines are tangy but not lacking in roundness, with a lively bubble. Perfect for pairing with any dish, a great opportunity to enjoy Champagne meals without having to worry too much about pairing them.
Vino Bianco White 2022,
An emblematic white cuvée from Azienda Corva Gialla, Vino Bianco is only produced in the finest vintages. Fresh and fruity, this Vino da Tavola (table wine) offers a golden yellow color with amber highlights and a surprisingly rich nose of exotic fruits. White flowers, Mediterranean herbs, candied fruits... And despite this aromatic opulence, the wine reveals itself on the palate as clean, tangy, mineral, and intense, and stands out for its sapidity due to the volcanic soils. All of this makes it a balanced wine, suitable for all occasions. Vino Bianco is a blend of three grape varieties: Grechetto, Trebbiano, and Procanico. It comes from vines of varying ages planted at an altitude of 450 meters on a west-facing plot of volcanic soil. The harvest is hand-picked and destemmed. A small starter is prepared, while the rest of the harvest is pressed directly and added to the starter. The whole thing ferments and rests in fiberglass tanks until bottling in March.
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Azienda Corva Gialla (“yellow crow”) is a winery in Lazio, Italy, located on the edge of Umbria in the Alta Tuscia Viterbese. A volcanic region considered one of the most beautiful in Italy and characterized by its calanches, tall tuff rock formations delineating deep valleys carved by numerous streams and torrents. Corva Gialla is located in Lubriano, opposite Cività di Bagnoregio. Alta Tuscia is a breeding ground for young winemaking talents dedicated to nature who are enhancing these lands that have been neglected throughout history. Founded in 2017, the estate covers four hectares cultivated by Beatrice Arweiler, originally from another wine-growing region, between the Rhine and the Moselle. The new owner has also planted an olive grove (Frantoio and Leccino varieties) and developed the estate into a mixed crop-livestock system. The vines were planted with the help of Gian Marco Antonuzzi, from the Le Coste estate. The crumbly volcanic soil lends itself beautifully to viticulture and the planting of grape varieties such as Grechetto d'Umbria, Trebbiano, Vermentino, Sangiovese, and Ciliegiolo. The estate's wines are quintessentially Italian, meaning they are crafted primarily for enjoyment. They are straightforward, deep, and easy to drink, expressing the strong minerality of their soils.
Pinot Noir Red 2021
Domaine Einhart
The deep, purplish color of this Pinot Noir from Domaine Einhart evokes black cherry: this is a velvety, ripe red, 100% Pinot Noir from the estate, with an intense, fragrant, and gently fruity aroma. The first nose is enhanced by aromas of black fruits (blackberry, blackcurrant, black cherry) with a hint of freshness blended into a light vanilla woodiness. The second nose is more open, with aromas of blood orange, bitter almond, and kirsch. On the palate, the small fruits are still present, supported by present but well-melted tannins, and lead to a velvety finish resting on a lovely freshness. Plenty of persistence and length. The Pinot Noirs from which it is made, aged around thirty years, grow on the muschelkalk (shell limestone) terroirs of Dittelsberg-Albermohn and are harvested by hand, then destemmed. Maceration, on indigenous yeasts, takes between ten and twelve days. Aging for one year on fine lees, in demi-muids, precedes bottling without filtration. From the vineyard to the cellar, this wine was made without any chemical additives or added sulfites. Decanting is recommended so that it fully expresses all its finesse and grace. The magnum format is only good for it, accentuating its velvety texture and depth.
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Located in the northern part of the Alsatian vineyard, horizontally above Strasbourg, the Einhart estate is a ten-hectare family property whose vines are located on the hillsides that rise between the Alsace plain and the Vosges mountains. The soil is clay-limestone and rich in fossils (muschelkalk, i.e. shell limestone and oolitic limestone, and lettenkohle or dolomitic limestone). Since 1990, Nicolas Einhart has been at the helm, now assisted by his son Théo. True to his commitments to the TIFLO association, of which he is a co-founder, Nicolas devotes his winemaking to protecting the land and biodiversity, making wine without inputs, refusing harmful phytosanitary products, and maintaining ecological refuge areas. His estate has been certified organic since 2011. Like Jean-Marc Dreyer [link], he is firmly focused on skin maceration and produces white maceration wines (orange wines) in addition to a Pinot Noir red. Entirely manual harvests, destemming of the grapes, light punching down, and delicate pressing are characteristic of the estate, as well as the separate vinification of each terroir, aging on lees, and the absence of filtration before bottling. The wines are pure grapes, lively, powerful, and tonic, and transcribe the minerality of the very beautiful terroirs of the Vosges foothills.
Hip Hip Chardonnay Blanc 2020,
Domaine de l'Octavin
Light, saline, slightly creamy, supported by superb acidity and a lovely minerality, Hip Hip Chardonnay makes no secret of its tropical notes (pineapple, papaya, mango) and its lovely citrus notes: orange and lemon peel, mandarin, lime. What richness! Added to this are white flowers, honeysuckle, oregano, white pepper, a lovely stony touch and perfectly balanced tannins. Clean and mineral finish. While it's true that Chardonnay works wonders in Burgundy, it also thrives in the Jura, where it finds its local style and is often paired with Savagnin. According to the method favored in the Jura, it frequently undergoes skin maceration. This Chardonnay was macerated here for two months in whole bunches in 2020 and aged in vats. Bottling was carried out in July 2021.
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“You don’t need anything,” says Alice Bouvot, winemaker at Domaine de l’Octavin, “just a grape that’s comfortable in its own skin.” Everything is said in favor of natural wine; it’s a perfect description. Created in 2005, Domaine d’Alice is located in Arbois, in this wine-growing Jura region, often described as the most organic vineyard in France. The habit of making – among other things – oxidative wines is a good preparation for natural wine, this type of wine allowing no chemical additives and especially no sulfites. It’s a secret of this magnificent region. Originally spread over two hectares, the estate, managed entirely biodynamically (Demeter) since 2010, has expanded through the gradual acquisition of plots and now covers seven hectares.
An accomplished musician and passionate music lover, Alice intends to apply her musical sensitivity to the wines she makes. She draws a parallel between the technical perfection of conventional wines, which risks excluding feeling, while "a musician who does not know music theory and plays with his guts creates emotion." For her, living wine is like this: instinctive, improvised, emotional. Introduced to natural wine by Stéphane Planche, sommelier at chef Jean-Paul Jeunet in Arbois, she will faithfully follow this path. The sometimes whimsical titles of her vintages are inspired sometimes by musical art (Dorabella, Zerline), sometimes by the numerous plots of land that make up her vineyard (En Curon, Les Corvées, En Poussot, etc.), and do not disdain a pun from time to time. Likewise, the labels adorned with happy and salacious little gnomes are a signature of the estate. As for the grape varieties, they are the classics of the Jura - Poulsard, Trousseau, Pinot Noir for the reds, and Chardonnay, Savagnin for the whites. Alongside her Arbois wines, Alice has created a business of "on the vine" grapes (Ecocert certified) with her winegrower friends from the region. Natural, committed, joyful and highly drinkable, the wines of Alice Bouvot are all the more coveted as the vintages, produced in plot-by-plot mode, appear, disappear and reappear depending on the vintage and inspiration.
Magnum Tonton Grolleau Red 2019
As its name suggests, this is a 100% Grolleau from old vines (eighty years old) growing on schist soils. The plots once belonged to the Domaine des Sablonnettes (Rablay-sur-Layon). The harvest macerates for three weeks in whole bunches. Beautifully fruity, with the characteristic plum nuance of the grape variety, spicy, and with a supple and light texture.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Organic Cognac VSOP Pass’Ange, Alain Chadutaud
Alain Chadutaud
Aged for five to seven years in Limousin oak barrels, this cognac is made exclusively from the Ugni Blanc grape variety. Its amber color and roundness on the palate reflect its long aging process. The fine and elegant nose offers subtle notes of vanilla; caramel and dried fruits delicately assert themselves on the palate. Serve it neat or as an aperitif, with ice cubes.
Magma Red 2016
Frank Cornelissen's grand cru is, as expected, a wine for aging. It reveals the remarkable depth of the Nerello Mascalese grape variety, grown on the Barbabecchi plot, planted with ungrafted, pre-phylloxera vines, over a hundred years old, at an altitude of 910 meters on the slopes of Mount Etna. Skin maceration takes place for sixty days on destemmed and lightly crushed grapes. No fining, no sulfites, and light filtration before bottling. With a very dense texture, this red is more mineral than fruity (the fruit notes are candied: blackberry, prune, all roundness and melted tannins). Its depth and power are balanced by great freshness. Possibility of traces of volatile acidity, quickly vanished with decanting.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Pairs with an exceptional product, the black pork ham of Bigorre
I Vicini Barbera Rouge 2020,
Jean-Yves Péron
This I Vicini Barbera is a great wine in every sense of the word. Long, very fruity, generous, deep, with superb acidity resulting from a moderately ripe harvest, it is both serious and joyful, wonderfully intense and concentrated. Finesse, minerality, tension, and a beautiful, intense and colorful red color: a superb example of what the Barbera grape variety can achieve, especially at altitude, as is the case here. Its 13.5% alcohol testifies to the desire not to exaggerate its richness and power: the average Barbera today is closer to 15%. The second most widely used red grape variety in Italy after Sangiovese, Barbera produces full-bodied, colorful wines with notes of red fruits. In 2017, Jean-Yves Péron decided to expand his range by sourcing organic grapes in the heart of Piedmont, Italy, in collaboration with his winemaker friends Paolo Angelino in Casale Monferrato and Giorgio Barbero in Asti. The result has been several vintages, including this 100% Barbera red, made from Paolo's grapes. The vines, around forty years old, grow on gray and white marl soils cultivated biodynamically. These are old, low-yielding vines, harvested by hand when slightly underripe to counterbalance the richness of the grape variety. Skin maceration, in pure carbonic mode without punching down, takes place over four weeks, using indigenous yeasts. I Vicini Barbera then ages for at least a year in 900-liter sandstone amphorae, which reinforces the wine's tension and minerality. No filtration, fining, or addition of sulfites.
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Jean-Yves Péron embodies the natural renaissance of the beautiful Savoyard vineyard, which has long suffered from a somewhat flimsy image, not taken seriously enough. Yet, what treasures its varied soils and numerous ancient grape varieties produce!
Near Conflans, in Albertville (Savoie), Jean-Yves Péron skillfully combines committed viticulture and merchant winemaking, both under the banner of nature and high-altitude organic vines. Initially destined for a career in biochemistry, he quickly became drawn to the vine and trained as an oenologist in Bordeaux. He learned his trade as a winemaker with Thierry Allemand in Cornas, then with Bruno Schueller in Alsace, before spending some time in New Zealand and the United States. Jean-Yves' current vineyard, one and a half hectares biodynamic since the beginning, is divided between Conflans, near Albertville, and Fréterive, a little further down in the Isère Valley. Made up of micro-plots of vines, it is staggered between 350 m and 550 m above sea level and is worked entirely by hand. His trading activity, which he began in 2011, allows him to buy the harvest from organic winemakers close to his home (such as Raphaël Marin and Adrien Dacquin). Also, the construction of a new winery in 2017 allows him to increase production and collaborate with winemakers from Northern Italy: Paolo Angelino in Casale Monferrato (Turin), Giorgio Barbero in Asti. This is a new dimension given to his work as a winemaker, allowing him to diversify the terroirs and deepen his experiences in winemaking and aging. Jean-Yves Péron's winemaking follows the principles of minimal intervention. On narrow and steep surfaces, his mountain vines receive no synthetic products, Jean-Yves preferring horsetail and nettle manure. The surrounding vegetation is very rich: it protects the vines and helps to strengthen them. The soils are grassed, mown and reworked with a pickaxe and winch. The harvest is entirely manual. Once vatted in whole bunches, the grapes, both red and white, undergo a semi-carbonic maceration which allows the extraction of fresh fruit aromas. This maceration time varies between five days and nine weeks depending on the vintage. The day before or two days before pressing, Jean-Yves performs foot-treading directly in the vat. After this fermentation, the musts are sent to barrels for aging on lees for twelve months in five hundred liter barrels of two or three wines (to limit the oaky sensation), followed by blending and resting in vats. No sulfites are added, or as little as possible, and the wines are not fined or filtered.
