What is the difference between natural wine and organic wine?

The genesis of wine dates back to the seventh millennium BCE, in the Caucasus, where wine was aged in kvrevris (or qvrevris), large amphora-like jars of 3500 liters buried in the ground. Historically, wine has always been what is considered organic today, but the mention "organic wine" appeared at the end of the 20th century, in reaction to the hyper-industrialization of wine. Indeed, in a context of wine globalization after World War II, viticultural productions flooded the world market with wine boosted by inputs and synthetic chemical products to obtain higher yields and wines with more standardized tastes; this is what is called conventional wine. Organic wine is therefore a response to conventional wine; it aims to be more environmentally friendly and meets strict specifications that regulate wine production. Alongside organic farming, another anti-productivist viticultural movement emerged: natural wine. Natural wine is more a philosophical vision of wine than a real definition of a type of wine; in very brief, natural wine is a wine that limits exogenous intervention as much as possible, especially the addition of sulfites (which is why when we talk about natural wine, we often hear it referred to as sulfur-free wine).

What is organic wine?

Organic wine, or more commonly called bio wine, is a wine produced from organic farming. Initially, this wine met the European specifications of 1991, which regulated the principles of organic farming only in the vineyard. It was only in 2012 that new European specifications were published, this time stipulating regulations for this agriculture not only in the vineyard but also in the cellar. As mentioned above, organic wine has theoretically always existed, but it is only since 2012 that this type of wine has been regulated by strict specifications. Broadly speaking, organic wine must be made from certified organic grapes, as well as the sugar, must, or alcohol used for chaptalization and mutage. Furthermore, its specifications prohibit certain winemaking practices such as de-alcoholization, electrodialysis, or thermovinification. The European Union also stipulates a sulfite level 50 milligrams per liter lower than conventional wine methods, thus allowing a maximum of 100 milligrams per liter for red wines and a maximum of 150 milligrams per liter for white wines.

The sector is growing, representing 8.3% of global vineyard areas in 2021, with a growth of +3.2% compared to 2020 and +78% in 10 years. France is a leader in this field, hosting over 30% of the world's organic vineyards, followed by Italy and Spain. But this type of viticulture is not only a message of hope for the environment; it is also a social issue. According to a study by Riccardo Vecchio, this type of viticulture creates 50% more jobs than non-organic farms, offering more stable jobs with 34.6% of certified farms employing one or more permanent employees, compared to 21.6% for non-certified farms.

What are the recognized organic labels in France? 

The National Institute of Origin and Quality, or INAO, delegates the control and certification activities for Organic Agriculture to independent and approved certification bodies, including Agrocert, Bureau Veritas Certification France, Certipaq bio, Certis, Certisud, Ecocert, Qualisud, Bureau Alpes Contrôles. Each year, certified wine productions are audited by one of these bodies; in case of irregularity, a unique catalog of measures is applied (regulations dating from November 1, 2014). A label project to identify farms in the conversion phase is also under consideration.

Nevertheless, some winemakers believe that the European AB label is too flexible and allows for so-called organic agriculture with somewhat industrial deviations, notably with support from large retailers who see new market opportunities. In opposition to European standards, two labels, Nature & Progrès and Bio Cohérence, emerged, presenting stricter legislation, including a ban on sales in large distribution, a measure implemented to promote short supply chains.

There are also many other labels to categorize organic wines with stricter legislation. Demeter and Biodyvin are two labels that regulate biodynamic wines, this esoteric viticulture that aims to consider the vine as a living ecosystem with more rigorous legislation for operations carried out in the cellar. Even stricter than biodynamics, the Vin Méthode Nature label offers a charter for natural wine. Terra Vitis and Haute Valeur Environnementale are two labels that promote sustainable development, through the preservation of biodiversity, phytosanitary strategies, and the management of soil fertilization and irrigation.

Finally, it should be noted that many winemakers refuse to be categorized under any label whatsoever, because this is precisely the principle of the agricultural counter-model: to emancipate oneself from globalized standards, not to fit into boxes. To free oneself from labels is therefore a way for the winemaker to assert their uniqueness and identity.

What is Natural Wine?

There is no official definition of natural wine, and it has no real administrative existence of its own. However, if we rely on the declaration of "commitment to natural wine" by the Vin Méthode Nature label, we can identify certain trends that help us better understand this denomination, which emerged in the second half of the 20th century and is now gaining increasing importance in the wine world.

So, to make natural wine, you need grapes from 100% organic viticulture, manual harvesting, and exclusively indigenous yeasts (chemical yeasts are prohibited). No inputs in the wine, no voluntary modification of the grape, no traumatic or brutal physical techniques for the fruit are allowed.

But what primarily makes a natural wine natural is the low presence of added sulfites. While conventional wine adds sulfites up to 150 milligrams per liter for red wines and 200 milligrams per liter for white wines, natural wine limits the presence of added sulfites to 30 milligrams per liter. However, sulfites will always be found in a wine (however natural it may be) because the vine itself generates sulfites (a natural process), and yeasts naturally release sulfites during alcoholic fermentation. Also, some natural winemakers add small amounts of sulfites during bottling to protect the wine from oxidation and other alterations.

Natural wine is therefore a stricter version of biodynamic wine; some see it as an ethical and political act. Drinking natural wine means drinking a juice that preserves the natural aromas of the grape and the terroir, but it is also and above all supporting a sustainable and humane agricultural model.

Can a wine be organic and natural? Can a wine be natural but not organic?

Yes, an organic wine can be a natural wine. Natural wine should be seen as an organic wine but with stricter regulations: fewer inputs, fewer sulfites, more respectful of the environment, consumer health, and farmer well-being.

Consequently, any natural wine is necessarily organic, without necessarily having the label (because, let's remember, some winemakers do not wish to fit into any administrative category). But talking about a natural wine that is not organic doesn't really make sense.