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XLC Xarel Lo Culinaries White 2022
Partida Creus
Culinaries Exclusive! This fruit of our collaboration with our favorite Catalan-Piedmontese, Antonella and Massimo, is a superb dry white from Catalonia, a unique and rare cuvée, and we are proud to present its first vintage. Classified as Vino de Mesa (table wine) and composed entirely of the indigenous Catalan Xarel·lo grape variety, this Culinaries cuvée is modeled on the estate's XL Xarel·lo, with notable differences. The wine is aged for a longer period and is done in demi-muids (large 500-650 liter barrels), which provides micro-oxygenation that enhances its complexity and fullness. It is therefore an "augmented" version of the XL, and it already tastes admirably, with a promise of great stability. Smoky, mineral, this Vino de Mesa (table wine) is already a classic, offering a pure and typical expression of xarel·lo. You can pair XL Xarel·lo Culinaries with the best of seafood, fish, white meats, roasted, grilled or cooked poultry in sauce...
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Partida Creus is an important estate, both in terms of wine and history – we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia. Massimo Marchiori and Antonella Gerosa, originally from Piedmont – and even coming from the Langhe region, where they know a lot about wines – first pursued a career as architects in Barcelona. But the wine bug tickles them, and soon they abandon the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There they find a quantity of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties, which they passionately revive to save these varieties – and their wines – from oblivion. For them, it's not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it's a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will never stop making from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to produce their best juice. Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel·lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel·lo: Partida Creus is a veritable conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties. It also grows moscatel, grenache, merlot and cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with the winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-variety wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the vintage. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush yet always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, exude life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits cries of satisfaction.
Auguste Red 2019,
Sous le Végétal
Auguste is the only dry red wine from the Sous le Végétal project. It takes its name from the indigenous Greek avgoustiatis grape variety, from which it is made entirely. It is a light wine that, through its Mediterranean nature, recalls something of the reds of the Jura: a characteristic earthy and mineral note, plenty of character—prune, clove, anise, vanilla, cherry jam, rich tannins, and, on the finish, a salinity due to the mineral-rich soils (particularly schist and limestone) of the island of Samos. The fruity notes remain taut and elegant. Decanting is recommended. The vines grow on the foothills of Mount Karvounis, not far from the village of Pagondas. The wine is a blend of four types of rock on two plots. The Avgoustiatis ('the august') grape variety is a rare variety, the first red grape variety harvested in Greece. It is cultivated organically in conversion to permaculture. The vines, pruned in the 'goblet' style, are harvested by hand on the morning of August 15th. The wine is first obtained by a forty-day maceration of whole bunches in stainless steel vats. Half of the vinification is done in 500-liter Stockinger barrels and the other half in ovoid concrete vats. The wine is completely additive-free, unfiltered, and bottled by gravity. The black bottle ensures the wine ages and the closure is made with a cork sealed with a mixture of paraffin and black beeswax.
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Under the plant lies the mineral: this is the meaning of this concept of natural vintages created in Greece, on the island of Samos, by a team of friends gathered around the winemakers Jason Ligas and Patrick Bouju. The successful enterprise marks a renaissance of the thousand-year-old vineyard of this island in the North Aegean Sea, which owes its dense and woody vegetation to various nicknames received in Antiquity, from Dryoussa (“covered with oaks”) to Kyparissia (“covered with cypresses”) and Melamphyllos (“With dark foliage”). This natural wealth covers a unique and varied subsoil: volcanic rocks and notably basalts, limestone, quartz, pink granites, schists, iron cast irons… The idea was born from Jason’s meeting with the Samos Wine Cooperative. Patrick Bouju soon joined the project. The five vintages of Sous le Végétal—Livia, Hüpnos, Octave, Palli & Genesia and Auguste—are produced on around sixty plots of Samos Muscat à petits grains (and Avgoustiatis for the red vintage), between 400 and 910 meters above sea level. Each plot is vinified separately. For vinification, four types of containers are used: amphorae, concrete eggs, stainless steel vats and 500-liter barrels. Each locality is vinified in at least two of the four containers and the aging takes place in black bottles sealed with wax. No added sulfur, no filtration: Samos' winemakers are rediscovering wine as it was made in their childhood. This is one of the wonders of natural wine: it allows, through the most innovative projects, to reconnect with forgotten traditions. Sous le Végétal also takes under its wing the A la Natural vintages by Patrick Bouju.
Ull de Llebre Sumoll Red 2019,
Cyclic Beer Farm is a duo of friends from Barcelona, Alberto and Joshua. Based in the Catalan capital, they have two sides to their business: beer (Cyclic Beer) and wine (Cyclic Wine). The beers, inspired by the Belgian model, are available in surprising and colorful ranges where expertly measured yeast cocktails and house brews combine with varied macerations of fruits, vegetables, herbs and grape marc from traditional Catalan varieties, the latter taken after the fermentation of their wines - because the second part is the wine, made exclusively from native Catalan grape varieties. As merchant winemakers, Alberto and Joshua themselves harvest by hand from organic wineries throughout Catalonia and bring the harvest to their winery-brewery workshop in La Sagrera (Barcelona). There they sort the grapes, tread them under foot and vat the must using exclusively indigenous yeasts. Depending on the type of wine, skin maceration takes place on the skins and stems for between one and three days for the whites and between six and fifteen days for the reds. The free-run juice is then transferred without pressing into stainless steel tanks where fermentation continues before bottling. The skins and stems, and sometimes part of the juice, are then used for the maceration of saison beers: an interesting synergy between beer and wine. No sulfites are added during vinification; nothing is added or removed from the wine, which is never filtered. The harvest and other viticultural operations are decided according to the lunar calendar.
At the time we tasted this red wine, it was still searching a little, but at the time of writing, it must have found its place and be resting comfortably on its balanced tannins and fruity complexity. It is a well-balanced wine between body presence and lightness, round and aromatic. It is a blend of Catalan grape varieties Ull de Llebre (70%) and Sumoll (30%) harvested by hand in Torrelavit (Upper Penedès) and Mas Llorenç (Lower Penedès) on limestone and clay soils. The Ull de Llebre vines are young (fifteen years old) and the Sumoll vines are very old (up to one hundred years old). The altitude of the plots is between 230 and 260 meters. The harvest, entirely manual, is sorted, and then ten percent is trodden by foot. A semi-carbonic maceration follows for twenty-seven days, after which the wine completes its fermentation in stainless steel vats.
Himmel auf Erden Rosé 2018
An exceptional Austrian rosé
Forget everything you thought you knew about rosé. Himmel auf Erden 2018, a natural wine from Burgenland, challenges the rules with boldness and elegance. Made from Cabernet Franc, this Austrian rosé reveals a vibrant profile, far from the expected standards.
A unique and unadorned rosé
Made without filtration or added sulfur, this wine is the pure expression of the fruit and terroir. After careful destemming and crushing, it benefits from a year of aging in large barrels, giving it depth and complexity. The inspiration behind its name comes from a work by the iconoclastic artist Alfred Hrdlicka, adding an artistic dimension to this atypical cuvée.
An explosive nose, a palate full of life
Upon opening, Himmel auf Erden 2018 reveals an explosion of aromas: wild raspberry, wild berries, tomato leaf and a hint of aromatic herbs. On the palate, the energy is striking: a beautiful mineral tension, a light natural effervescence, and an irresistible sapidity that prolongs the pleasure.
Pairings and service
Ideal at 10-12°C, it will pair well with Mediterranean cuisine, plant-based dishes, and fine charcuterie. With no added sulfites, this rosé can be enjoyed in its purest form and promises a unique sensory experience.
With Himmel auf Erden 2018, rediscover rosé in a new light. A lively, bold wine.
Es d’aqui Trachéo Red 2016
This pure Grenache comes from the schist soils of Faugères. It is a superb wine, refined and fresh, beautifully fruity. It has aging potential for six or seven years, but can be enjoyed now. Nose of raspberry, rose, licorice, and Languedoc garrigue. On the palate, very well-integrated tannins. Beautiful energy, sunshine, and plenty of structure.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
€170,10
Unit price per€170,10
Unit price perVosne Romanée les Champs Perdrix rouge 2019,
Frédéric Cossard
Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undistorted by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years as a wine merchant, the existence of harmful viticultural practices, the winemaker used this counterexample to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for some time as a wine broker before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The exercise is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura or Languedoc. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular plowing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Reds or whites, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.
This Pinot Noir in AOC Vosne-Romanée comes from the plot that gave its name to the vintage. The terroir, facing east, is based on limestone soils mixed with clayey marl at a depth that varies between a few dozen centimeters and one meter. The grapes macerate in whole bunches. The aging is approximately one year in barrels. Very distinctive, complex and powerful, this wine also presents a beautiful finesse with melted and velvety tannins.
Natural wine without added sulfites.
Beaujolais Lancié Red 2019,
Domaine Bélicard
In the heart of the Beaujolais Villages AOP, Domaine Bélicard creates an authentic and delicious cuvée with its Beaujolais Lancié 2019. Coming from a vineyard rooted in granite soils, this wine is a true ode to the Gamay Noir grape variety, enhanced by traditional carbonic maceration vinification. With its 53-year-old vines, this cuvée perfectly illustrates the finesse and freshness characteristic of the best Beaujolais Villages.
A Gamay to taste!
Vinified using carbonic maceration, a typical Beaujolais process that enhances the fruit and supple tannins, this wine is then aged for 9 months in wooden vats, giving it both roundness and liveliness. Its controlled aging highlights all the freshness and delicacy of the terroir, without masking the aromatic purity of the Gamay.
A floral nose and a delicious palate
Upon opening, the Beaujolais Lancié 2019 reveals an expressive nose, dominated by floral notes and crisp red fruits (cherry, redcurrant). On the palate, the balance is perfect between freshness and deliciousness, with fine tannins that provide a silky texture and a juicy, thirst-quenching finish.
How to enjoy this bottle?
Served slightly chilled at 14-16°C, this wine for sharing is perfect as an aperitif, but also with summer barbecues, a charcuterie board or simple, convivial dishes. With an aging potential of 5 years, it will evolve towards even more complex aromas.
VNRA Vinel lo Rouge 2018
Partida Creus
VN, Vinel·lo Ancestral Red, is a natural sparkling wine resulting from a blend of indigenous grape varieties: Samsó (Cinsault), Garrut (Mourvèdre), Trepat, Ull de Perdiu, Queixal de Llop, Sumoll, and Grenache Noir, harvested from predominantly limestone soils. After crushing, the musts from the different grape varieties ferment one after the other and are gradually added, thus extending fermentation with indigenous yeasts. Fermentation completes in the bottle, for ten months, on fine lees. No filtration, no additives, and no added sulfites. A fruity, very fresh sparkling wine with floral and yeasty notes. Very long finish.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
Garnata Red 2010
A smooth, characterful wine. Aromas of crushed wild blackberries like cocoa. High-altitude Grenache.
This Grenache comes from a plot planted between 1,300 and 1,368 meters above sea level on slate and schist soils. The destemmed harvest macerates in stainless steel vats. Alcoholic fermentation occurs spontaneously using native yeasts present in the environment, without any additives. The fermentation temperature is not altered: the coolness of autumn nights is sufficient (the winery is also at an altitude of 1,280 meters). Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally in barrels during aging in the underground cellar.
Natural wine with no added sulfites.
No Bullschiste White 2023,
A natural tribute to Chenin and schist terroirs
The No Bullschiste 2023, by De Vini, is a vibrant and authentic white wine, born from the schist terroirs of the Loire. This 100% Chenin, vinified by direct pressing and aged for 8 months in buried sandstone vats, reflects a natural philosophy, without fining or filtration, to preserve all the purity of the grape and the expression of the terroir.
A fresh and saline tasting experience
To the eye, this wine reveals a clear and luminous color, with slightly golden highlights. The nose is aromatic and refined, with tangy notes of lemon, green apple, and a subtle floral touch. On the palate, it seduces with its vibrant freshness, marked minerality, and a saline finish reminiscent of sea spray. Its lively and light texture makes it an ideal companion for convivial moments. Served between 8 and 10°C, it is best enjoyed young to fully appreciate its energy and purity.
A seafood companion
No Bullschiste 2023 pairs wonderfully with shellfish, oysters, or cooked fish. Its liveliness and minerality also make it a perfect choice for a light aperitif or dishes with marine influences.
With an aging potential of 5 years, this Chenin, enhanced by schist, offers an authentic experience, between tradition and modernity. A natural and sincere wine, ideal for lovers of freshness and non-interventionist wines.
UL Red 2019
Partida Creus is a winery located in Catalonia, founded by two Piedmontese natives from the Langhe (where wine is well-known), Antonella Gerosa and Massimo Marchiori. They initially pursued careers as architects in Barcelona, but the wine bug bit them, and they soon abandoned the big city and its sophistication for the vineyards of southern Catalonia, in Bonastre in Baix-Penedés. There, they found a wealth of abandoned vineyards planted with a dizzying diversity of traditional Catalan grape varieties, which they passionately revived to save these varieties—and their wines—from oblivion. For them, it's not just a matter of heritage rescue, no: it's a matter of taste and nature. Of natural wines, which they will continue to make from now on on these sandy, poor, clay-limestone or clay-gravel soils, poor and poorly irrigated, where the vines suffer to give their best juice. This is why their estate is as important from a winemaking perspective as it is from a historical perspective - we are talking here about the history of the vine in Catalonia.
Massimo and Antonella practice organic, biodynamic viticulture, entirely manual and natural in order to give new life to these wines. Vinyater, sumoll, garrut, monastrell, ull de perdiu, ull de llebre, sumoll, queixal de llop, cariñena, trepat, subirat parent, maccabeu, parellada, pansé, vinel.lo, bobal, cartoixà vermell or xarel.lo: Partida Creus is a veritable conservatory of native Catalan grape varieties. It also grows moscatel, grenache, merlot and cabernet (among others). Few wineries can boast growing so many different grape varieties. The wines reflect this diversity, with the winemakers striving to best convey the signature of the soil and the grape variety: single-variety wines are common among them, alongside extensive blends, all in the styles dear to Catalonia: still wine, "ancestral" sparkling wine, and even vermouth. The bottles themselves are works of art: bare glass, simply marked with two large stenciled initials that denote the vintage. The wines, fresh, vibrant, lush but always straightforward and impeccably juicy and fruity, breathe life. The arrival of a Partida Creus at the table always elicits exclamations of joy. This new red from Partida Creus is based on the ancient and indigenous grape variety called ull de llebre, which, you guessed it, means “hare’s eye.” What you might not guess is that this is the Catalan name for Tempranillo. It’s actually an old local version of this very Iberian grape, which Massimo and Antonella have nurtured in their own way. The wine is highly original: behind the minerality, the (black) fruit, the blueberry, and the freshness, we notice very fine tannins and aromatic herbs. A serious wine, a little grave, but did you know that serious wines make you joyful? Its length on the palate is astonishing. Decanting is highly recommended so that this wine can play its own unique music, down to the finest notes.
Esprit Attila Red 2016
This blend is composed of 60% Syrah (from thirty-five-year-old vines), with the remainder consisting of Carignan, Grenache, Merlot, and Alicante Bouschet. The grapes macerate in whole bunches for ninety days in a near-infusion and are aged in concrete vats and amphorae for one year. Its aromas of violet and red fruits will pair well with red meats, especially lamb. Aging potential: twenty years.
Pairs with: Red Meats, Roasted Meats, Grilled Meats
€63,50
Unit price per€63,50
Unit price perMercurey Les Vignes Blanches Qvevris Red 2020,
Fresh, wild, and intense, this Mercurey is definitely a pleasure to drink with abandon. Morello cherries, black fruits, cherry, raspberry, and complexity on the nose give way to floral, then mineral and roasted notes. On the palate, there is plenty of sap, fullness, and density, with silky, melted tannins of great finesse, completely devoid of harshness. The finish is long, fruity, and distinguished. Les Vignes Blanches is a Mercurey vineyard where Frédéric Cossard is producing his third vintage. For the occasion, the winemaker vinified and aged it in qvevri (a Georgian-style buried jar), which rounds it out and accentuates its velvety texture and depth. Perfect for entrecôte, filet of beef en croûte, and roast duck.
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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undeformed by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful wine-growing practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice that are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for some time as a wine broker before creating the domaine de Chassorney with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine trading house and buys organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais crus. The practice is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura, Languedoc, and elsewhere. At his farm, the soil and vines are worked as naturally as possible: regular horse-drawn ploughing, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are tended according to biodynamic principles: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper, and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.
Régnié la haute ronze Red 2017
La Haute Ronze is one of two plots cultivated by Nicolas in the Régnié appellation; it is considered of very high quality, with deep clay soils that produce full-bodied wines. This 100% Gamay is obtained through semi-carbonic maceration and aged for approximately twenty months (half in barrels, half in stainless steel vats). It offers notes of leather, earth, and Mediterranean herbs (oregano, rosemary), through its red fruits.
A natural wine with no added sulfites.
Auguste (exclusive vintage) Red 2023,
Sous le Végétal
With Auguste 2023, Sous le Végétal enhances the rare Avgoustatis grape variety, a native Greek grape with deep, spicy aromas. Thanks to a month of whole-bunch maceration, this red wine reveals beautiful complexity and a silky texture.
An intense and distinguished Mediterranean red
Grown on schist soils, this wine reveals a fine tannic structure and beautiful freshness, perfectly balancing power and finesse.
A spicy nose and an elegant palate
The nose reveals notes of black cherry, spices, and garrigue, typical of Mediterranean grape varieties. On the palate, it is distinguished by its beautiful tension, velvety tannins, and a long, mineral finish.
How to enjoy Auguste?
Served at 16-18°C, Auguste is the perfect accompaniment to a leg of lamb, a spicy tagine, or roasted vegetables with herbs. With an aging potential of 5 to 10 years, it will gain in complexity and suppleness.
Octave (exclusive vintage) White 2023,
Sous le Vegetal
Sous le Végétal, our own iconic estate on the island of Samos, delivers with Octave 2023 a pure and vibrant interpretation of Muscat Petit Grain. A new vintage of this already iconic vintage, this bottle is produced using whole-bunch maceration, this white wine reveals a fascinating complexity, both floral and mineral.
An exceptional Muscat, between freshness and depth
Thanks to natural vinification, without artifice, and meticulous work on indigenous yeasts, this wine reveals the full expression of the Samos terroir. Whole bunch maceration gives it texture and structure, while maintaining superb tension.
An expressive nose and a chiseled palate
The nose reveals intense notes of white flowers, citrus fruits and sweet spices, accompanied by a beautiful saline minerality. On the palate, it offers a fresh and ample attack, with a beautiful acidity and a lingering finish on notes of candied zest and aromatic herbs.
How to enjoy Octave?
Ideal at 10-12°C and decanted before tasting, Octave will perfectly accompany seafood, fish ceviche or poultry with citrus fruits. Its aging potential of 5 to 10 years will allow it to evolve towards even more complex aromas.
Kuku Yodel White 2018
A dry white wine, Kuku Yodel reveals great finesse, freshness, and fruit on the nose. On the palate, the attack reminds some of an unfiltered white beer, others of a tropical lemonade. This wine is pleasant, fruity, floral, refreshing, and very fragrant. It evokes fruits such as peach, apricot, mandarin, lemon, lychee, passion fruit, and rhubarb, with a milky, yeasty finish, with the rich aroma of a summer meadow. It is made from Muscat of Alexandria, either as a single varietal or with a small proportion of Terret Bourret and Grenache Gris depending on the vintage. Kuku Yodel is a macerated white wine made from Muscat of Alexandria vines growing on the schist and clay-limestone soils of the high slopes of Hérault. The destemmed grapes macerate for forty-five days in vats, then the wine is aged for one year. Before bottling, it is neither filtered nor clarified, and no sulfites are added during the vinification process. Kuku Yodel should be drunk very chilled and can be kept for around ten years.
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Anthony Tortul loves old vineyards: he devotes his life to finding and vinifying them. Just as there are landless shepherds, he can be defined as a landless winemaker, in other words a wine merchant whose area of activity extends throughout Languedoc and, eastward, as far as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in search of the best terroirs. Born in Foix, with six years of experience as a wine technician and oenologist in various vineyards in the south of France, he created La Sorga in 2008. His enthusiasm leads him on a path filled with favorites, and each of these favorites is a vineyard. The result is a dizzying mosaic of natural, lively, and spirited wines, which reinvents itself each year with around thirty cuvées per vintage. Few winemakers can include such a variety of grape varieties: the entire south of France is represented, with muscats, grenaches, picpoul, mauzac, carignan, cinsault, marsanne, alicante, braucol, duras, viognier, len-de-l'el, and tutti quanti.
I Vicini Moscato Blanc 2020
Jean-Yves Péron
I Vicini Moscato is a Muscat d'Asti vinified dry; it therefore offers the aromatic and musky nose specific to the grape variety, but without the syrupy side that is sometimes associated with it, as a very present tannic structure balances the whole. On the palate, it is rich and powerful; we find the charming aroma of Muscat in the retro-olfaction, but with the tension and freshness that the winemaker favors for his dry whites. It is a table wine, with power and presence: not really for an aperitif, but for gastronomy, no limits.
Jean-Yves Péron's "I Vicini" series is made from grapes harvested in Piedmont; for I Vicini Moscato, we are dealing with the famous muscats of the terroirs of Asti. They grow on very fine limestone soils, calcareous-magnesian, and the Asti site benefits from a cold air current that brings increased freshness compared to the rest of the region. The harvest, manual, is carried out on grapes at a fairly advanced phenolic maturity. Maceration is long, with three months of punching down, after which everything is racked in January, pressed and sent directly into 300-liter barrels (new barrels, one-wine barrels and two-wine barrels) for a year of aging. No filtration, no addition of sulfites. Straightness, tension, and freshness: a very fine mountain Muscat.
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Jean-Yves Péron embodies the natural renaissance of the beautiful Savoyard vineyard, which has long suffered from a somewhat flimsy image, not taken seriously enough. Yet, what treasures its varied soils and numerous ancient grape varieties produce!
Near Conflans, in Albertville (Savoie), Jean-Yves Péron skillfully combines committed viticulture and merchant winemaking, both under the banner of nature and organic high-altitude vines. Initially destined for a career in biochemistry, he quickly became drawn to the vine and trained as an oenologist in Bordeaux. He learned his trade as a winemaker with Thierry Allemand in Cornas, then with Bruno Schueller in Alsace, before spending some time in New Zealand and the United States. Jean-Yves's current vineyard, one and a half hectares of which have been biodynamic since the beginning, is divided between Conflans, near Albertville, and Fréterive, a little further down in the Isère Valley. Composed of micro-plots of vines, it is staggered between 350 m and 550 m above sea level and is worked entirely by hand. His trading activity, which he began in 2011, allows him to buy the harvest from organic winegrowers close to him (such as Raphaël Marin and Adrien Dacquin). Also, the construction of a new winery in 2017 allows him to increase production and collaborate with winegrowers from Northern Italy: Paolo Angelino in Casale Monferrato (Turin), Giorgio Barbero in Asti. This is a new dimension given to his work as a winemaker, allowing him to diversify the terroirs and deepen his experiences in winemaking and aging. Jean-Yves Péron's winemaking follows the principles of minimal intervention. On narrow and steep surfaces, his mountain vines receive no synthetic products, Jean-Yves preferring horsetail and nettle manure. The surrounding vegetation is very rich: it protects the vines and helps to strengthen them. The soils are grassed, mown and reworked with a pickaxe and winch. The harvest is entirely manual. Once vatted in whole bunches, the grapes, both red and white, undergo a semi-carbonic maceration which allows the extraction of fresh fruit aromas. This maceration time varies between five days and nine weeks depending on the vintage. The day before or two days before pressing, Jean-Yves performs foot-treading directly in the vat. After this fermentation, the musts are sent to barrels for aging on lees for twelve months in five hundred liter barrels of two or three wines (to limit the oaky sensation), followed by blending and resting in vats. No sulfites are added, or as little as possible, and the wines are not fined or filtered.
Kikiriki Black Red 2018
Elegance, purity, and a crisp minerality due to the limestone characterize the productions of Clos Lentiscus. The note of controlled oxidation, when present, does not dominate the tasting, and the wines are never deviant. The cavas are renowned for their exuberance, but those from Clos Lentiscus never have more than two grams of residual sugar per liter. The estate also produces still wines, red, white, and rosé.
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This Cocorico (in Catalan) is a red made from a blend of Tempranillo and Cariñena (Carignan). Aromatic and light, it comes in a one-liter bottle and is not a luxury: this distinguished gurgle, at the table and as an aperitif, will go well with everything. A very good wine for tapas and al fresco dining.
It is in Sitges, Catalonia, in the heart of the Garraf Natural Park, that Manel Avinyo and his brother Joan took over the family estate, renamed Clos Lentiscus by Manel. Even though Barcelona is only a half-hour drive away, the beauty of the landscape is striking and the immersion in nature is total: Mediterranean forests rub shoulders with Catalan scrubland (thyme, rosemary, rockrose, mastic tree which gave its name to the estate, etc.). The Penedès region also has a long winemaking history. Nestled in its gentle hills is Clos Lentiscus, in the Penedés appellation, on twenty hectares of sandy and clay-limestone soils facing due south at an altitude of 225 meters. According to historical documents, the family of Manel and Joan Avinyo has been established there since at least the 14th century. For a long time, the grapes were sold to local cooperatives, but since the two brothers took over the estate, organic and biodynamic farming has replaced conventional practices, the entire harvest goes into the house vintages, and organic and biodynamic practices have allowed this beautiful property to reconnect with its former prestige: in the 19th century, its wines were sold in France and as far away as the Americas. Manel quickly earned a nickname: The Bubbleman, a tribute to his talent for making cavas, the sparkling white wines characteristic of the northeast of the Iberian Peninsula, from native varieties that only Catalonia has the secret to: sumoll, ull de llebre, xarel·lo, malvasia from Sitges, cartoixà vermell, cariñena (carignan), accompanied by tempranillo and muscat from Alexandria. The vines are old, sometimes centuries old. No synthetic additives are used in the vineyard, and operations such as planting, pruning, de-budding, and harvesting are dictated by the lunar phases. Pollination is facilitated by the presence of beehives; sheep contribute to fertilization and control of the plant cover. Ringo, the white horse, is responsible for working the soil.