Producer: The Grape and the Angel

Producteur : Le Raisin et l'Ange

No SO2, no sugar, just grapes. This requires the winemaker to be a guide, not a processor.

All his wines

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Gilles Azzoni

Where?

In the south of Ardèche, between the Cévennes and the Rhône Valley, Mas de la Bégude is a twenty-five-minute drive from Aubenas and forty minutes from Montélimar. It is a place of peace and serenity nestled in a valley, very close to the very touristy Ardèche Gorges but much quieter. After learning about vine pruning in Burgundy and viticulture in Bandol, Gilles Azzoni, originally from Paris, settled in La Bégude in November 1983, working the farm and six hectares of vineyard. From the beginning, his concern was to practice viticulture that respected nature. He wanted to make "the wines he loved to drink": thirst-quenching wines, not too alcoholic, and without added sulfites. It's not the easiest method, but "you have to love rock and roll," he says. Gilles began by turning to organic farming, which was fully implemented in 1997. Certifications (Ecocert and Nature & Progrès) were obtained in November 2010. Since his son, Antonin, took over the estate and assisted his father, a wine trading activity has been added to the farm's practices. Antonin chose not to take over all of Gilles's vines and focused on winemaking, a skill in which he excels. He hasn't touched his father's iconic vintages, Fable and Hommage à Robert; it is even said that he has added even more freshness to them.

Terroir, plots, and grape varieties

The terroir is that of southern Ardèche, dry, stony, and clay-limestone. The six hectares of vineyards nestle against the hills and border the forest. The site has been cultivated for centuries, not only with vines but also with cereals (barley, rye), in the form of terraced cultivation so common around the Mediterranean but now abandoned. A shame, according to the winemaker, because it was an excellent way to preserve the freshness of the soil in a willingly arid environment. Not all of the vineyards are cultivated, and the vintages come from both the estate's grapes and organic grapes from other neighboring estates. Since the wines are all Vin de France appellation, the greatest freedom is possible in the blends. Grown on site or nearby, the region's typical varieties are present—Syrah, Grenache, and Viognier—but there are also Merlot, Gamay, Alicante, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay.

Growing Methods

Entirely organic, nothing is added to the vineyard, nothing added to the winery. Grassing the soil and sowing green manure are practiced. The estate is a member of the Natural Wine Association (AVN).

Vinification

The sloping terrain allowed the establishment, in the 1980s, of a fully gravity-fed winery from an earlier building that Gilles added a mezzanine. It is on this upper level that the harvest takes place. The grapes, carried by hand in their crates, are collected directly into four stainless steel fermentation vats, respectively named Zola, Brel, Chaplin, and Camus. These are also where the wines are aged. Bottling is also carried out by gravity. Three-quarters of the production is vinified using whole bunches, with carbonic maceration lasting eight days to a month to produce fresh and fruity wines. There is some pumping over, but no punching down. The combined winemaking and viticulture activities at the estate mean that the blends of the same cuvée, as well as their taste, can vary from one vintage to the next.

The Wines

Tasters are unanimous about the reds from Domaine Le Raisin et l'Ange: delicious, fresh, easy-drinking, and fruity, they are truly enjoyable wines, lively wines that often benefit from decanting. They immediately evoke sharing, friends, and tables: these are not wines to be drunk alone. Nor are the finely crafted whites, made from Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Grenache Blanc.

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