Riesling Origin White 2020

Riesling Origin Blanc 2020

Jean-Marc Dreyer

Green fruits, balanced acidity, elegance, complexity: a wine for meditation. Jean-Marc Dreyer's Origin range is dedicated to single-varietal cuvées based on Alsatian varieties. Here, whole-bunch maceration exposes Riesling in a completely new light: ignoring the petrol notes (which are present, but politely wait until the finish to manifest themselves), the wine expresses a structured verticality balanced by a gentle roundness. Very mineral, but this time it's the soil that we sense, not the gas can. This wine was aged for eleven months in the Alsatian style, that is, in foudres and demi-muids. Taste pairings? Don't look, it goes with everything. Biodynamic method, fermentation with indigenous yeasts, unfiltered, unclarified, no sulfites added in the vineyard or cellar.

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"Maceration in Alsace is a tradition!" says Jean-Marc Dreyer, adding that direct pressing in this region is a modern invention, linked to the advent of electricity. In the past, we worked by hand and let the grapes macerate before sending the marc to the press." Whole-bunch maceration is Jean-Marc Dreyer's signature and represents 85% of the estate's production, the rest consisting of direct-pressed whites, often aged using gentle oxidation. Jean-Marc succeeds several generations of his family at the Dreyer & Fils estate, established in 1830 between Obernai and Molsheim. Upon taking over the estate, he immediately opted for biodynamics, but he hesitated for a while between several methods: at first, his wines were more oaky, aged in new barrels with stirring. Then, a sweet period: all his wines contained residual sugar. In 2008, he tried vinifying without any sulfur and found his direction: the following winter, upon returning from the pilgrimage to Compostela, he swore never to add sulfur to any wine again. Having made this decision, he affirmed his style around skin maceration, quite extensive, chiseled, always surprising on Alsatian grape varieties, whose structure it brings out without sacrificing delicacy. Jean-Marc works in single-varietal or blended vintages and also produces Pinot Noir reds of surprising depth.