Organic Wine: Origins and Regulations

The genesis of wine is often traced back to the seventh millennium BCE, in the Caucasus, where wine was aged in qvevris (or kvrevris), large jars of 3500 liters buried in the ground. Traditionally, wine has always been what we now consider organic, but the term "organic wine" appeared at the end of the 20th century, in reaction to the hyper-industrialization of wine. Indeed, it was in a context of wine globalization after the Second World War that wine production began to flood the global market with wines full of additives and synthetic chemicals to achieve higher yields and more standardized production, known as conventional wine. Organic wine is therefore a logical response to conventional wine; it aims to be more environmentally friendly and adheres to strict specifications governing wine production.

Organic wine is therefore a wine (red wine, white wine, rosé wine, orange wine, sparkling wine) made from organic farming. Organic wine first met the European specifications of 1991, which governed the principles of organic farming only in the vineyard. It was not until 2012 that new European specifications were published, this time stipulating organic farming regulations also in the cellar.

As mentioned above, wine from organic farming has theoretically always existed, but it is only since 2012 that it has been regulated and controlled by strict specifications in both the vineyard and the cellar. To summarize its obligations, organic wine must be made from certified organic grapes, as well as the sugar, must, or alcohol used during chaptalization and mutage. Also, its specifications prohibit certain winemaking practices such as de-alcoholization, electrodialysis, or thermovinification. The European Union also mandates a sulfite level 50 milligrams per liter lower than conventional wines, i.e., a maximum of 100 milligrams per liter for organic red wines and a maximum of 150 milligrams per liter for organic white wines.

The organic sector is booming, representing nearly 10% of global vineyard area in 2021 with growth of +3.2% compared to 2020 and +78% in 10 years. France is a leader in this field, hosting nearly a third of the world's organic vineyards, followed by its Italian and Spanish neighbors. But organic farming is not only beneficial for the environment; it is also a driver of social well-being. According to a study by Riccardo Vecchio, the organic wine industry creates 50% more jobs than the conventional wine industry, offering more stable jobs with a third of certified farms employing one or more permanent employees, compared to one in five for uncertified farms.

What are the different organic labels recognized in France?

It is INAO that delegates organic farming control and certification activities to independent and approved certification bodies, including Agrocert, Bureau Veritas Certification France, Certipaq bio, Certis, Certisud, Ecocert, Qualisud, Bureau Alpes Contrôles. Every year, certified vineyards are audited by one of these bodies, and in case of irregularity, a unique catalog of measures is applied. A label project to identify farms in the conversion phase (over one or more years) is also under study.

However, for some winemakers, the AB label is too flexible and allows for farming that claims to be organic but has some industrial deviations, notably with the support of large retailers who are trying to seize these new market opportunities. Therefore, two new labels have emerged: Nature & Progrès and Bio Cohérence have stricter specifications, including a ban on sales through mass distribution channels, a measure whose implementation aims to promote short supply chains.

It should be noted that there are many other labels categorizing organic wines that have stricter specifications. Demeter and Biodyvin regulate biodynamic wines or wines from biodynamic winemaking, an esoteric viticulture that considers the vine as a living ecosystem with more rigorous legislation on operations carried out in the cellar. Stricter than biodynamics (or biodynamic wine), the Vin Méthode Nature label proposes a charter for natural wine with an emphasis on low addition of sulfites in the wine and the use of indigenous yeasts. Terra Vitis and Haute Valeur Environnementale are two labels that promote sustainable development, through the preservation of biodiversity, phytosanitary strategies, and fertilization and irrigation management.

Finally, it should also be remembered that many winemakers refuse to be categorized under any label because it would mean denying the principle of the agricultural counter-model: emancipating oneself from standardized norms, not fitting into boxes. This can be seen as a way for the winemaker to assert themselves as unique and with a strong identity.

How is consuming organic wine better for the environment?

One of the great strengths of organic winemakers is their ability to bring life back to the soil and the surrounding flora and fauna. In France, viticulture accounts for 20% of agricultural pesticide use, compared to only 3% of agricultural land. Organic viticulture therefore emerges as an ecological hope: little to no use of phytosanitary products, recourse to organic fertilizers and compost, a reduction of up to one-third of CO2 emissions compared to conventional wine. With better respect for the vine, there is on the one hand a rebirth of the soil, which slows down erosion and promotes subterranean flora and fauna, and on the other hand, a rebirth of pollinators (bees, butterflies...) thanks to an increasing presence of life between the vines (hedges, wild plants, shrubs...).

Organic viticulture also allows for better water management, notably with less water stress (more organic matter in the soil allows for better water retention) and especially less artificial irrigation (the resilience of the vine is preferred). Each cuvée, each vintage, each bottle, in short, each wine from organic farming is therefore directly influenced by climatic hazards, which makes it possible to produce a wine (red wine, white wine, rosé wine, orange wine, sparkling wine) with its own distinct and marked personality.

How is consuming organic wine better for health?

No one can deny that alcohol, and therefore wine, is dangerous for health and should be consumed in moderation. Nevertheless, where conventional wine may contain pesticide residues, additives, and chemicals, organic wine reduces the presence of these harmful substances. It is also full of living bacteria and yeasts that can have benefits for the microbiota, including improved blood vessel function, improved protection of brain cells against cognitive damage, reduced risk of certain types of cancer (especially breast cancer), and better digestion thanks to the production of digestive enzymes stimulated by wine.

Another undeniable health benefit of organic wine is the reduction of sulfites, preservatives widely used in conventional wine to stabilize it. For an equivalent amount consumed, an organic wine will cause fewer headaches the next day than a conventional wine!

What are the advantages of organic farming for winemakers?

When we talk about organic wine, we often think about the health of our planet or our body, but we think much less about the health of our winemakers. Unfortunately, it is not uncommon to observe cases of cancer or respiratory problems among winegrowers, due to synthetic chemicals used such as pesticides, herbicides, fungicides, or fertilizers. Conversely, organic wine aims to drastically reduce these substances, so organic viticulture is beneficial for those who work the vines daily.

Although organic farming requires more physical and organizational effort, it exposes winemakers to significantly fewer toxic products. The use of alternative methods is also beneficial from a psychological point of view, as some producers state that the quality of the organic wine produced offers and brings a deep meaning to their profession, and according to a virtuous circle, this helps maintain a respectful, attentive, and intuitive relationship with their wine work.

But organic farming is also synonymous with short supply chains and therefore support for local economies with a win-win situation for all: the consumer has full traceability of the bottles consumed, and the producer has an income that better reflects the reality of their work. A virtuous system is thus created where the winemaker has more financial resources, allowing them to experiment with new things (new grape varieties, for example) and thus increase consumer satisfaction.

966 products

Volnay Les Roncerets 1er Cru vin naturel rouge 2017 Domaine de Chassorney Frederic Cossard 2

Frédéric Cossard - Domaine de Chassorney

Volnay 1er cru les roncerets Red 2017

€94,80

Volnay vin naturel rouge 2017 Domaine de Chassorney Frederic Cossard 2

Frédéric Cossard - Domaine de Chassorney

Volnay Rouge 2017

€74,00

Pommard 1er cru Les Pezerolles vin naturel rouge 2017 Domaine de Chassorney Frederic Cossard 2

Frédéric Cossard - Domaine de Chassorney

Pommard 1er cru Les Pezerolles Red 2017

€80,00

Frédéric Cossard - Domaine de Chassorney

Santenay 1er Cru Passetemps Red 2020

€98,00

Santenay 1er Cru Passetemps Rouge 2020,

Frédéric Cossard
Deep ruby color, nose revealing candied red fruits and floral notes. A hint of violet is discernible. On the palate, it is rich, refined, and concentrated. The Passetemps climat is located between the village of Santenay and the Gravières climat, another premier cru. The soil is clay-limestone, the vines are seventy years old, and this single-plot cuvée, characteristically, has great aging qualities and deserves to be cherished.

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Through his entirely natural work, Frédéric Cossard gives voice to the terroirs and Burgundy wines, undistorted by agricultural chemicals. Having observed, during his years of trading, the existence of harmful wine-growing practices, the winemaker used this counter-example to practice unadulterated viticulture. Thus, he produces vintages of purity and elegance without artifice which are among the most sought-after in Burgundy. Frédéric worked for a time as a wine broker before creating the Chassorney estate with his partner Laure in 1996: initially a few ares of vines in Saint-Romain, Auxey-Duresses and Savigny-lès-Beaune, and currently ten hectares spread across the Nuits-Saint-Georges, Pommard, Volnay, Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune and Bourgogne appellations. In 2006, he created his own wine merchant company and purchased organic grapes to vinify, according to his style and convictions, great vintages such as Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, Pommard, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée and several Beaujolais vintages. The practice is not limited to Burgundy, as vintages are made from grapes purchased in the Jura, Languedoc and elsewhere. At his place, the work of the soil and the vines is done as naturally as possible: regular plowing by horse, no addition of chemical fertilizers or weedkillers. The vines are cared for according to the principles of biodynamics: homeopathic treatments based on essential oils, copper and sulfur in minimal doses. The harvest is entirely manual, carried out at full maturity, at the end of October. Red or white, classic Burgundies or more atypical or less "regional" bottles, Frédéric's vintages are rare and sought-after wines, which sometimes require waiting.

Ktima Ligas

Red Bucephalus 2007

€55,00

La Grapperie

The Red Enchantress 2017

€41,00

L'Enchanteresse Rouge 2017,

La Grapperie
A very intense nose of black fruits extends into a beautiful volume on the palate, and the length leaves one dreaming. A cuvée of old vines, L'Enchanteresse is a 100% Pineau d'Aunis with excellent aging potential. The terroir of this aptly named Enchanteresse is made up of flint clay over limestone. The Pineau d'Aunis, which makes up the entire cuvée, is harvested at full maturity, sorted, then macerated for four weeks in truncated cone-shaped vats with punching down by foot. Fermentation occurs naturally using indigenous yeasts, without any oenological additives, in order to preserve the purity of the grapes and the expression of the vintage and the soil. The wine is aged for between twelve and twenty-four months on lees in demi-muids in cellars dug into the tuffeau stone.

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La Grapperie, in the Coteaux du Loir appellation, is the name of the estate of Renaud Guettier, who can be described as a master of Chenin, but also of Pineau d'Aunis, which is one of the oldest grape varieties in the Loire Valley. His principle, he confides, is "to produce complex, rich wines with good aging potential and imbued with the minerality of their terroir." The vines are located on hillsides, between 60 and 120 meters above sea level, protected from the north winds by the Bercé forest. Depending on the altitude, the terroirs are predominantly clay (at the bottom of the slope), flint (mid-slope) or sand (on the higher ground). The 60-hectare vineyard comprises around fifteen plots. The grape varieties are the two traditionally permitted in the appellation: Chenin for the whites and Pineau d'Aunis for 90% of the reds, the remainder consisting of a few acres of Côt, Gamay, and Grolleau. The average age of the vines is seventy years, including almost two hectares of century-old vines and one and a half hectares of vines aged between sixty and eighty years. Convinced of the enormous potential that these old vines can bring to his vintages, Renaud has been meticulous in restoring the vineyard. The entire estate is farmed organically. The soils are worked, and all viticultural interventions are manual, including the harvest, which is carried out at full maturity, which is reflected in the fullness and smoothness of the wines. For the reds, the Pineaux d'Aunis are partially destemmed (depending on the plot) and the macerations are quite long, three to four weeks, with punching down, to promote aging potential. The wines are aged in barrels for between twelve and twenty-four months, then racked, blended and bottled without filtration. For the whites, the Chenins are pressed directly at low pressure and then poured into barrels by gravity. Fermentation takes place in barrels, using indigenous yeasts, with complete malolactic fermentation, for at least eighteen months and sometimes up to thirty-six months.

Marie et Vincent Tricot

Vin paillé Red 2012

€95,00

Vin paillé Red 2012

Marie and Vincent Tricot

Marie and Vincent Tricot's Vin de paille is undoubtedly a curiosity: it's a sweet wine made from 100% Auvergne Gamay, entirely organic and natural, made like a Vin de paille from the Jura. The harvest is dried on straw in an attic before pressing. We're not used to Gamay vinified this way, or even red wine vinified this way.

It's an experiment, but the result more than justifies the boldness. Drying on straw concentrates the sugar in the grape berries and accentuates the flavors. Only a drop remains in each berry, but what a drop! Sweet, caressing, syrupy, complex, this Vin de paille is a delight. Its color is not a pure red but an amber, and the nose is a veritable basket of slightly jammy fruits: plum, prune, raisins, strawberry. It is possible that a refermentation takes place in the bottle, which can give a sparkling attack to this wine, but it disappears quickly. On the palate, a delicious sweetness, lots of strawberry and pleasantness. Very easy to drink.

To find out more

Among the generation of Auvergne winemakers who, at the dawn of the 21st century, are resurrecting the vineyards of this beautiful volcanic province of the Massif Central in organic and natural ways, Marie and Vincent Tricot are pioneers, and their name is well known to those who have long loved natural wine. After a varied winegrowing journey that took them from Beaujolais to Chile and from Chile to Costières-de-Nîmes, they landed in Auvergne, at the foot of the Puy de Dôme, in the commune of Orcet where they took over Claude Prugnard's vineyard, a land that had not seen the slightest chemical input for around thirty years. The estate is located on a hillside, on the left bank of the Allier, in a volcanic clay-limestone area neighboring the vineyards of Châteaugay, Chanturgue and Corent. They acquired it in 2003 and, since then, have been making wines from Auvergne Gamay, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with a little Sauvignon Blanc and Muscat. These rare and sought-after wines are mainly sold directly. They have a straight and flamboyant profile, and express themselves with as much character as simplicity.

Côtes du Rhône (exclusive vintage) Red 2022

Domaine des Grandes Serres

Côtes du Rhône (exclusive vintage) Red 2022

€12,30

Côtes du Rhône Red 2022

Les Grandes Serres

This Côtes-du-Rhône from Domaine des Grandes Serres is what its name implies: an organic and natural red wine from the lower Rhône Valley, in the AOC-AOP Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages. It is part of the estate's "Comics" natural series (see label).

Vinification

The Côtes-du-Rhône from Domaine des Grandes Serres is made from 80% Syrah, with 5% of each of the following grape varieties: Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault, all grown on limestone and sandstone soils. The harvest is manual, the grapes are destemmed and macerated on the skins for three weeks. After pressing, the wine rests for eight months in stainless steel vats.

Tasting

A good, dense, indulgent, and fruity Côtes-du-Rhône, without the slight bite of sulfites, does that tempt you? This Côtes-du-Rhône is part of the estate's organic and natural "Comics" series and will always be perfect when you want a warm, fruity red wine suitable for all occasions.

Learn more about Domaine des Grandes Serres

Domaine des Grandes Serres, created in 1977 with respect for the environment and the terroir, represents the excellence and vitality, in organic and natural mode, of the prestigious Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, where it covers 12 hectares. To make his estate and merchant wines, he harvests, buys grapes, vinifies, and ages them over a wide area, centered around Châteauneuf and the southern Côtes-du-Rhône, extending to areas such as Lirac and the Costières de Nîmes.

An organic commitment without ostentation

A large portion of the Domaine des Grandes Serres vintages are organic and without added sulfites, although the estate does not publicly boast about it. Modestly, Samuel Montgermont, the estate's general manager, explains that the geological and climatic conditions, particularly the mistral wind, promote the health of the vineyard and allow for the elimination of inputs. While the labels don't take themselves seriously, the wines are solid, fresh, and flavorful.

La Tribu Alonso

Non Ouillé White 2022

€22,70

Non Ouillé White 2022

La Tribu Alonso

Terroir, plot size and grape varieties

It is in the heart of Beaujolais that La Tribu Alonso has dared a bold departure, a joyful risk: producing an oxidative white wine, a rarity in this region more renowned for its fruity reds. For this cuvée, named Non Ouillé 2022, the Chardonnay grape lends itself gracefully to controlled oxidation, revealing an unexpected facet of its expression. Born from a terroir at the crossroads of influences, between the granite hills of Beaujolais and the more southerly breezes of the Rhône Valley, this wine embodies a true convergence of sensations. A first foray into this style for the estate—and a promising success.

Cultivation methods

The Tribu Alonso, as its name suggests, operates as a collective, with a vision of wine resolutely focused on people and the living world. Here, there are no labels, but a clear philosophy: to work as close to nature as possible, without artifice. The vines are cultivated without chemical inputs, respecting natural rhythms, and the winery becomes a place of gentle experimentation. For this cuvée, the choice not to top up the wine—that is, not to fill the barrels during aging—allows for slow oxidation, inspired by the wines of the Jura region. A way to explore new gustatory horizons, while showcasing the grape variety and the local terroir in a new light.

Tasting & pairings

From the very first whiff, Non Ouillé 2022 intrigues and seduces. One is immersed in a disconcerting yet captivating aromatic world: notes of anise, mild curry, and above all, that touch of nuttiness typical of oxidative whites, tickle the senses. On the palate, the texture is ample yet taut, with precise minerality and a beautiful freshness that perfectly balances the wine's buttery and saline character. A subtle interplay between unabashed rusticity and profound elegance.

This wine invites the unexpected at the table: perfect as an aperitif, with green olives, aged hard cheeses, or even a delicate Comté and caramelized onion tart. It also pairs beautifully with light, exotic cuisine, such as a vegetable curry or fish marinated in mild spices. This is a wine for the curious, for those who love new sensations, for those who enjoy venturing off the beaten path and discovering what Beaujolais can offer when it embraces other influences.

With Non Ouillé 2022, La Tribu Alonso has created a vintage of character, as free as it is precise, which redefines the contours of white wine in Beaujolais and invites us to broaden our perspective, glass in hand.

La Tribu Alonso

Organic Wines